Grape Expectations

It is early in the morning of March 4th and as I venture out from the guest cottage for a walk in this lovely 400 acre estate, the rains have stopped and cooling fog from nearby San Pablo Bay hangs over the neat, but dormant rows of vines and a few wild turkeys cross my path in this quiet and peaceful place.

This wine estate called Cuvaison was planted in 1969 with the goal to take advantage of the world-renowned region of Carneros (Spanish for sheep) in lower Napa Valley.

Recently Wines & Spirits magazine awarded Cuvaison “Winery of the Year”.

The Estate is certified sustainable in its soil, water, waste, material handling and pest management and a vast array of solar cells supply clean energy.

Many of the 13 billion corks used worldwide each year end up in landfills, but Cuvaison collects and recycles, so some can find new life in shoe soles, fishing rod handles, place mats, insulation, tiles and even as a soil amendment in compost.

Later in the day as we taste Cuvaison wines with Winery President Jay Schubert and Carrie-Anne Wood (who oversees our market), I tell them about Good Friday in Bermuda and how their 2011 Kite Tail Chardonnay would be so perfect with our fish cakes and kite flying.

I even “Google” a picture of a Bermuda kite and show Carrie-Anne.

This limited production Chardonnay comes from a single block on a windy bluff that provides soaring lift for the White-Tailed Kite that makes its home on this property.

The Cuvaison 2011 Kite Tail Chardonnay, from a prized block of old vines is in the flinty, mineral driven mode with a zesty citrus nose.

Bright stone fruit and high-toned floral notes give the wine brightness and verve. I personally love it! $46.25.

The Cuvaison Estate Chardonnay 2010 at $29.95 received a very favourable 91/100 from the Wine Enthusiast that said: “Strikes a happy balance between richness and elegant austerity with this bone-dry offering. It is minerally and reserved, offering intriguing hints of apricots and tropical fruits, buttered toast and vanilla.”

Cuvaison Sauvignon Blanc is produced in such small lots that until recently we have not been able to get any on a regular basis, as it has only been offered to visitors at the winery.

Now we have a little of their 2012 Solitaire Sauvignon Blanc that is produced from a clone called “Musqué” and the result is Anjou pear and yellow delicious apple, citrus zest and flinty mineral notes.

A lovely kite party wine that for $25.90 offers refreshing, clean, crispness.

The Carneros Region, that skirts the northern shore of San Francisco Bay, is cooled by morning fog and ocean breezes and so presents the ideal climate for Pinot Noir.

The Cuvaison Estate Pinot Noir vines are planted on high, windy slopes that help dry out the fruit and offer more complexity.

The grapes from twenty distinct blocks, each with their own soil conditions and micro climates, are vinified separately using gentle winemaking techniques and the art of the winemaker comes to the fore as he eloquently expresses the terroir to be found across this Carneros estate.

We presently have the 2010 that possesses vibrant notes of cherry, raspberry and pomegranate with hints of allspice.

The crisp structure and silky elegance would be perfection with that Easter ham, or tuna, or salmon, or lamb or steak or even some of our Island’s very best fish cakes, of which I will probably consume too many as my kite soars towards the clouds. $39.10.

Happy flying!

This column is a paid advertorial for Burrows, Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows, Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or on 295-0176. Burrows, Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits are available online at www.wineonline.bm.