In February I was invited to attend a seminar/conference held to tell the world about the creation of a new class of wine. On June 17th the first tasting event for this wine was held in the US. We are all familiar with Chianti, Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Reserva, each one being a step up in quality and now, the more than 600 members of the Consortium of Chianti Classico producers, have an even higher summit to strive for. This is called Chianti Classico Gran Selezione and the last count that I had listed 19 wineries that had passed the stringent tests and released one each.

Like Chianti Classico and Reserva, the Gran Selezione must come from the Classico agricultural zone in central Tuscany. All three wines must be at least 80 per cent Sangiovese, but with this new category 100 per cent of the grapes must be grown on their own estate lands (very often wineries buy from outside growers). Classico requires a minimum alcohol content of 12 per cent, Reserva 12.5 per cent and Gran Selezione 13 per cent and all three limit grape production to 3.35 tons per acre. Minimum total ageing before release is about a year (until October) for Classico, 24 months for Reserva and 30 months for the new one. And on it goes.

San Felice Agricola, in the southern portion of Chianti Classico, encompasses 1,430 acres of which 308 are high class vineyards that are surrounded by 17,000 olive trees. We just received their “new wine” but let’s work our way up.

San Felice Chianti Classico 2010 is a blend of 80 per cent Sangiovese, ten per cent Colorino and ten per cent Pugnitello which is an ancient grape that was literally rescued from a single remaining vine that they discovered some years ago. They are working in conjunction with the University of Florence with more than 270 vine varieties sourced from Tuscan vineyards. Wine Enthusiast magazine writes of this wine “Quintessential young Chianti Classico, the juicy palate bursts with ripe, black cherry, raspberry, black pepper and cinnamon. Smooth and delicious 88/100. $18.55

San Felice Chianti Classico Reserva “Il Grigio” 2009 garners a rather amazing 93+/100 from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. He writes of “A pure expression of Sangiovese with warmth and richness. Balsam herbs and eucalyptus that slowly give way to black fruit, cherry cola, violet and Spanish cedar all showing an extremely polished feel in the mouth”. $24.90

The San Felice Chianti Classico “Il Grigio” Gran Selezione 2010 has the required minimum of 80 per cent Sangiovese with the remaining 20 per cent consisting of grapes from their research station; Cilegiolo and Malvasia Nera for aroma and fruit, Abrusco for colour, Pugnitello for structure and Mazzese for spice. Like all in this class of wine it has passed strict government taste tests to validate its quality.

Wine Spectator magazine rates it 94/100 and says “A very aromatic red, offering deep cherry, liquorice and hints of leather and spice. It’s rich, sweet fruit is balanced by vibrant acidity, while the cherry, leather, tobacco and spice persist on the very long finish”. Wine Enthusiast also thinks that it is worth 94/100 and refers to a gorgeous, structured wine that is all about depth, complexity and impeccable balance. $38.25.

This column is a paid for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East. 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits are available online at www.wineonline.bm.