Some say that this grape takes its name from a local black bird in France called Merlau, as it resembles the same dark colour, but I suspect their propensity to eat the sweet, ripe grapes is the real reason.

You see, Merlot ripens earlier than others like Cabernet Sauvignon or Malbec and the birds go for them first, which can create quite a problem in the vineyards. Farmers use nets, loud noises, aluminium foil blowing in the wind and other ideas to prevent their crops being eaten.

The Garonne River splits the Bordeaux appellations and those on the “Left Bank” are on the western side, whereas St Emilion and Pomerol are on the “Right Bank” or eastern side. It is in the latter that Merlot dominates, and for a very good reason; the cold winter winds arrive here first from inner Europe and this grape can hopefully be mature and harvested before there is any chance of damaging frosts.

Merlot is also larger in size than the other Bordeaux varietals and so there is a lower skin-to-juice ratio which results in a softer, less tannic wine that drinks well at an earlier age. Take for instance our Chateau de Malengin from Montagne St Emilion where we find that the highly acclaimed 2009 vintage is ready to drink. Merlot dominates at 70 per cent, Cabernet Franc contributes 20 per cent and Cabernet Sauvignon ten per cent. It opens up with black cherry, red currant and a hint of menthol and mild oak. There are hints of plum, liquorice and minerality. In 2003 this property was purchased by one of the best known wine families in the world and it now belongs to Baron Benjamin de Rothschild. $25.50.

Pomerol borders St Emilion to the north and at less than two-and-a-half square miles, it is the smallest major growing region in Bordeaux and like its neighbour, Merlot is mostly grown there with Cabernet Franc being the next most planted variety. Chateau la Clemence is made up of 85 per cent Merlot and 15 per cent Cabernet Franc and the consulting oenologist, Michel Rolland, is one of the best known and regarded worldwide. The 2006 Clemence is just starting to peak now and blackberry, raspberry and plum join with earthy soil, tobacco and tar to make a complex wine indeed. A combination of demand and small production adds up to the fact that most Pomerol is not inexpensive, but at $88.65 I would think that most would feel it was well spent on a beautiful blend.

It could be interesting to compare a New World 95 per cent Merlot and five per cent Cabernet Franc from Ed Sbragia, a winemaker that I respect as much as anyone that I have ever met in this trade. He was the head oenologist at Beringer for 25 years where he developed the Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay programme.

Now he has moved back to an area where he grew up, Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma, where he and his family have started their own small winery. Their Sbragia “Home Ranch” 2010 Merlot is wonderful. Ed comments: “Warm, lush flavours of cherry liqueur are punctuated with notes of bright red currant and rhubarb. It has a rich mouth-feel without being ponderous, with notes of dark chocolate, vanilla and cinnamon spice and an intriguing note of pink peppercorn. The tannins are soft and supple and the wine carries a long, smooth finish.” The Wine Enthusiast magazine rates it 92/100 and says that its blackberry, cherry, mocha and cedar flavours make it simply delicious for drinking now. $35.30.

This column is a paid for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn has stores in Hamilton (Front Street East. 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits is available online at www.wineonline.bm