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Summer wines to pair with fish sandwiches

Fish fanfare: The competition has been intense, fun and flavourful for Bermuda’s best fish sandwich (Photograph by Akil Simmons)

It might be a good time to consider what may be the best wines to accompany Bermuda fish sandwiches. Our treat used to be to enjoy such fare with our young sons, often at a place in St David’s named after a very dark member of the genus equus and sadly closed at this time.

One son was on the Island this past weekend, and so we decided to join in the Bermuda’s Best Fish Sandwich Competition supported by 40 restaurants and the Bermuda Tourism Authority.

Associates suggested that we travel west to Boaz Island, and indeed the fries and coleslaw were fine, the service very friendly, the wahoo fresh and cooked and seasoned to perfection. It was very gratifying to see tables of tourists as well.

The following day it was an upper porch overlooking the town square in St George’s, and once again the fries, slaw and sandwich were really top notch. The management is so new that they are not listed with the 40, but they can be voted for.

I only regret that more time was not available to experience what I am sure would have been most enjoyable meals, although of course I have eaten in many of the participating properties over the years.

I am thinking of our only wine from Austria which is a gruner veltliner 2012 from Kurt Angerer. Gruner veltlinger has received huge international acclaim during the past few years and can be found in many restaurants in big cities.

The lychee flowers, mango, lemon juice and minerality would work well with lightly seasoned local fish. This wine is from one of the best cellars and a family that has been making it for 150 years. In keeping with our policy of taking advantage of exchange rates where we can, we have just lowered this bottle from $22.55 to $19.45.

Our Duck Pond 2014 pinot gris from Oregon has recently arrived and I can share that it was awarded 92/100 and a gold medal at the 2015 Los Angeles International Wine Competition. Aromas of lemon, nectarine, Asian pear, white peach and grapefruit dominate and, as it finishes crisp and dry, it certainly would bring out the fine and delicate flavours of Bermuda fish.

In Oregon this wine becomes magical and its mouth-watering acidity really works, after all why do we squeeze a little lemon juice on our seafood? $18.50.

Chateau Bonnet Blanc 2014 from Bordeaux rates a very credible 89/100 and this blend of sauvignon blanc, semillon and muscadelle from Andre Lurton is just lovely with seafood on a hot August day.

The winery tells us that it is expressive but also nervous, vibrant as well as intelligent. I suspect that words may have been lost in translation here but I can vouch that you will find succulent pear and tropical fruit along with a delightful freshness. A price of $15.25 is ample proof that France is offering some very good values at this time.

If sauvignon blanc is your wine of choice then you would find Rodney Strong Charlotte’s Home Vineyard 2013 sauvignon blanc from Sonoma to be very appropriate.

Although you will recognise the expected herbaceous, mineral, pear and melon, I do find it more delicate than some and for me this marries so well with wahoo and rockfish. $19.30.

If you decide to take part, or have past favourites in this area, you can vote for the best fish sandwich at www.bermudafoodie.com, but the initial round finishes up today so you will have to act quickly if you would like for your choice to get to the next stage.

• This column is a paid for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits is available online at www.wineonline.bm.