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BERMUDA | RSS PODCAST

The biggest, the oldest, the best

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It may not be technically accurate on all three fronts, but the vineyards of Bordeaux cover 264,000 acres; wines have been made there since the first century and there are close to 10,000 producers.

The fact that our Lafite Rothschild 1989 lists for $1,347 and the Latour 1995 fetches $1,029.85 a bottle attests to what folks think of these great “first growths” of the 1855 classification.

Before you stop reading, let me assure you that we have many wonderful wines that most of us can afford and my intention is to move through the years as I write.

Château Maucaillou, situated in the commune of Moulis, was the very first property that I visited in Bordeaux many years ago. Just less than 200 acres are planted with cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit verdot and cabernet franc. In his book Bordeaux, Robert Parker says that it is “easily the equivalent of a fourth or fifth growth”. Here, he is referring to the Great Classification of 1855, when 61 estates were taken from thousands and placed in five groups. The list was based on the prices that were paid for these wines over the past 100 years or so. They were, and mostly still are, the cream of the crop and only one change has ever been made; in 1973 Mouton Rothschild was moved from a second to a first growth. So if Maucaillou deserves this exalted status why does it not have it? It was built and planted in 1875!

Château Maucaillou 2003 gives us the chance to try a well-aged red that, to be honest, probably only has a two-year window left open to enjoy it. For this reason we have reduced its price from $33 to $22.35. The rich tannins of this 2003 will have softened and the fruit less intense, but it is very much a pleasurable wine to have.

The Wine Cellar Insider says this of the 2005 vintage in Bordeaux: “This is a stunning vintage from top to bottom in all appellations and in all price ranges. If you have the money, this is one of the best bordeaux vintages to lay down in your cellar. These stunning wines will only get better and more expensive 100/100.” We have the Château Maucaillou 2005 for $42.20 and I can assure you that 2005s are not easy to come by. This wine should be a real treat indeed at this time.

Château Cambon La Pelouse was founded by the Cambon family in the 1700s (pelouse means lawn) and all those years ago it became very popular in London and helped build the reputation of its area. Stephen Tanzer, in his newsletter, says this of the 2004: “A big, sweet bouquet of melted chocolate, black currants, vanilla and cedar is followed by a full-bodied, rich, impressively constituted wine.” $30.70. He writes this about the Cambon La Pelouse 2006: “Deep and ruby colour. Aromas mixed with red and black berries with notes of toasty oak and spices. Richly fruity, soft and round. A very harmonious wine that will peak between 2014 and 2017.” $30.70.

In the tiny village of By we find Château Rollan de By which, on a consistent basis, produces wonderful wines well above their classification. We sell the 2006, that Parker calls a “great value”, for $34.55. Here is what he thinks of the Rollan de By 2006: “Sweet cassis fruit, cedar, tobacco leaf, liquorice and subtle smoke aromas followed by a wine with impressive ripeness, medium body and a long, lush, evolved, richly fruity finish. Consume this charming, sensual 2006 over the next decade.”

Going back to the vintage chart mentioned before, it rated 2009 as a 97/100 year that is a “great year with wonderful style”. We have many listed but for only $21 you can have our Château Carignan Prima 2009 Côtes de Bordeaux that well-known critic James Suckling has rated an impressive 93/100. He says: “Ripe fruit and light espresso character with hints of mushrooms. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, flavourful finish. Best after 2014.”

As wine prices seem to creep up from other countries it really is worth your while to try these historic, traditional red wines — and we have many in stock.

This column is a paid for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits is available online at www.wineonline.bm.