As there was a birthday in our home earlier this month we decided to spend matching amounts of $2.50 an ounce on food (Halibut) and wine (Shafer Red Shoulder Ranch Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 from the Carneros District of Napa Valley).

This vineyard is named for the red shouldered hawks that control the rodent population in a natural way, with the help of owl families by night.

Most wine goes through a second fermentation caused by bacteria, and this is called malolactic, as it converts malic acid (found in apples) to lactic acid (found in milk). John Shafer says that he avoids malolactic in order to retain abundant natural flavours and acidity.

Just as lemon juice enhances the flavours of halibut, so this natural acidity in the wine has the same effect. Just as one ads butter to seafood such as this, and especially our lobster, so the rich, creamy texture of this Chardonnay marries beautifully, and most importantly the food and wine are matched so well in intensity without one trying to outdo the other.

The Wine Enthusiast and the Wine Spectator both rated this Chardonnay, which costs $64.70, 93/100

On the rare occasion when I do prepare Bermuda Lobster, the very good Chardonnay rule applies at home and another of my favourites, at $30.05, is Catena Alta 2010 — Tupungato — Argentina.

This vintage also received a 93/100 rating, this time from Robert Parker, who considers it an excellent bridge between Old World (Burgundy) and New World styles. There is something in this wine for everyone; delicate citrus, floral notes, ripe pear, apple, apricot, crisp, mineral acidity and crushed stones.

Last night I was asked what I wanted for my November birthday dinner, where we expect quite a gathering of the clan.

I suggested beef tenderloins on the barbecue, and it will be a must to have Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec or a wine that is a combination of “Bordeaux” varietal grapes.

Why?

Well, let me put it to you in an unscientific manner. Tea, that I consume copiously, contains tannins, as does red wine, and these antioxidants (that are so good for us) are what can give a rather mouth-coating bitter taste to tea, and young red wine.

Milk actually chemically encapsulates these tannins, and in effect softens them, and this is why I enjoy my tea with milk. When you think of it the animals that give us milk, or my birthday tenderloin, both say “moo”, and many of the chemical compounds in milk and beef are similar.

Ergo, beef softens the tannins in red wine, and that is one reason why they work so well together.

I am thinking of Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 from Argentina at $38.70 a bottle. It exhibits super-ripe aromas of blackberries and bitter chocolate and winemaker Alejandro Vigil adds 10% Cabernet Franc to give a floral lift. The International Wine Cellar rated it 92/100.

Tannins in effect hold red wine together, and help it age in harmony with all its components, and it is during this period that the tannins begin to dissipate and become less obvious. 2007 was a great vintage in Napa Valley and I just might serve Franciscan “Magnificat” 2007, which is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot.

It was in this “Valley of Plenty” (the meaning of the Wappo Indian word Napa) that I fell in love with wine so many years ago, and Magnificat offers lush and deeply-layered aromas of black cherry, blackberry jam, blueberry, red plum and toasty oak.

As it opens up, braised mission figs, brown spices, flint and dark chocolate emerge. It sells for $47.30. As I do have a family obligation to maintain my vinous reputation I may just decide on this, or a classic vintage from Bordeaux, like our Chateau Bernadotte 2005 Haut Medoc, where the Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc have combined to create a rich, charming wine that is delicate, yet full bodied with the delicious fresh, red fruit of a super year, which goes for $36.45.

I do not believe that there is much of this classic, and collectable, 2005 vintage still in circulation, but we have good stocks.

Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows, Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or on 295-0176. Burrows, Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton

(Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits are available on line at www.wineonline.bm