Some twelve hundred years ago a Benedictine monk by the name of Emilion arrived in a small French town where he lived the reclusive life of a hermit. He later became a saint and the town took his name and evolved into a religious centre where, starting in the ninth century, the monks carved an entire church out of a single huge piece of limestone, the very same rock that gives us our Island. This took three hundred years and today it remains Europe’s greatest monolithic church. Every time that I have driven through this hill-top town it has taken my breath away with its ancient beauty. St. Emilion is not only a town but also an area on the eastern border of the Bordeaux region that is highly respected for its Merlot based wines. It is here that the cold air of Europe first sweeps in to start the winter season and as Merlot is an early ripening grape it can be picked before the threat of frost arrives.

As I was looking at our fairly extensive range of wines from this appellation it dawned on me that the holy nature of this place does indeed reflect in the property names.

Chateau La Révérence St. Emilion Grand Cru is a very small seven acre vineyard that is planted with old vines on clay soil that bring depth and power from a 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc blend. The grapes are hand -picked and bottling is done without fining or filtration. The 2010 that we presently stock is a very fine vintage for which the whole area is rated 94/100. La Révérence drinks well on release but will cellar for 15 to 20 years with ease.

The Wine Spectator rated the 2010 La Révérence 90/100 and said “This is a ripe, slightly heady style, offering layers of velvety raspberry, boysenberry and plum fruit with melted licorice and backed by a tarry edge on the finish. 1,500 cases made”. Our price is $64.10.

At 93/100 the vintage charts are also very admiring of the fine 2009 vintage in St. Emilion and it is also amongst the most sought after in all of Bordeaux. We have in our cellars the 2009 from Chateau Magdelaine Premier Grand Cru Classé and at up to 90% Merlot it has the highest percentage from any wine in this exalted Premier Grand Cru category. When mature (six years plus) Magdelaine is a model of rich creamy elegance with nuances of cassis, sweet tobacco, chocolate and vanilla. Magdelaine consistently rates near the top with the 2009 scoring 94/100 from Parker and The Wine Enthusiast.

It is very ripe with vanilla, brioche-like flavours, tobacco, black cherry and overall a gorgeous purity of fruit. $134.70.

Sanctus is a special cuvee (blend) of predominately very old Merlot from a choice spot in a vineyard called La Bienfaisance (charity). We have the 2008 vintage of Sanctus which is a year to compare with the great 2000’s and 2005’s. Robert Parker rates it 91-94/100 which means that it will improve with age. He writes of blueberry pie, creosote, charcoal and background oak. It has dense, opulent fruit with excellent purity, sweet tannin and fresh crisp acids. Parker calls it a beauty. $49.25.

I would like to include one of my all-time favourite “Garagiste” wines and that is La Confession, but we have virtually none left. You may find a little of the 2002 in our shops, which was only the second vintage for this minute seven hundred and fifty case producer. It will cost you $62.05 and now well aged it should be lovely. It has gone on to garner a very fine reputation and the 2009 that we have just run out of rated 96/100 from Parker. I have just ordered the 2010 that he calls “absolutely stunning”.

This column is a paid for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East. 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St. George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits are available online at www.wineonline.bm.