Last week featured the story of American white oak with its creamy, vanilla, spice and coconut character that many Spanish and Australian winemakers like. French oak is tighter grained and produces silkier tannins and if you are concerned about the loss of trees I can say that France does a very good job of managing its forests. Since World War Two about 4,400,000 acres have been reforested and about a quarter of the country (more than 30,000,000 acres) is covered with trees.

There are famous forests and regions like Limousin, Nevers and Allier to choose from and during a trip to Argentina in 2010 I found out how much the top coopers protect their reputation.

We were visiting a French owned, brand new winery called Atamisque and they showed us their cellar with one thousand new Taransaud barrels. Atamisque considered this producer the best of them all, and they told us that before Taransaud would agree to sell to them they sent a representative from France to inspect their facility. If they had felt that the quality of the wines was not going to be of the highest standard, they would not allow their barrels to be used.

Atamisque has now added another top cooper called Demptos and if you would like to experience the effects of the finest, new, French oak barrels then I suggest you try the Atamisque “Assemblage” 2009 from the Uco Valley in Tupungato, which in turn is in the Mendoza region.

This 50% Malbec (80 year old vines), 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot blend is aged in new French oak for sixteen months and to be honest I do not know how they can use expensive new oak ($1,200 to $2,400 for a barrel that holds 300 bottles) and still we are able to sell it to you for $30.75. The wine is saturated dark ruby with liqueur-like strawberry and liquorice on the nose, complicated by black pepper and nutty, chocolatey oak.

I highly respect the Burgundy firm of Joseph Drouhin because not only have they farmed their lands with organic and biodynamic principles since 1993, used horses to pull the ploughs, vinified with indigenous yeasts, but they individually select their oak trees which are then weathered for three years under their supervision so that all coarse tannins can be eliminated. In fact the ground under the lumber actually gets stained by tannins that are leached out.

For me a really lovely white Burgundy is the epitome of Chardonnay and oak working in harmony. Take for instance our Drouhin Puligny Montachet “Les Folatieres” 2009 that is designated Premier Cru, as Folatieres is one of seventeen vineyards of this quality level. It is also the best known.

In Burgundy they usually do not want the impact of new oak and as Drouhin in this case uses 25% new oak it means that their barrels are on a replacement programme that takes place over four years.

As one Burgundy resident commented to me “too much oak is like a beautiful lady wearing too much make-up”. 2009 produced very aromatic wines with lots of style and balance and they are ready to drink now, although Drouhin suggests that this one will still offer enjoyment in 2034!

You can just “feel” the exquisite, classic oak delicately weave its way through honeysuckle, fresh almonds and dried fruit. Peaches are in harmony with dusty brown spices and vanilla from the oak.

One sign of a very fine wine is how long it stays on the palate and this one does give plenty of time to contemplate. $79.10. Please do not over-chill as it will be far better at about fifty five degrees Fahrenheit. It will air and open up in a decanter or glass just like a fine red (I do not use the term breathe as the next time that I hear a wine doing so will be the first).

This column is a paid for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East. 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St. George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits are available online at www.wineonline.bm.