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High points of Hamilton

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As it was: On the left, the fine artist, Dr Johnson Savage, painted a view of Burnaby Hill between 1833–1836, when the hill of hard rock was still to be removed. That may be compared to a photograph when the western side of the Hill had been developed for businesses of the City of Hamilton.

One of the somewhat unsung achievements in the realm of Bermuda heritage in the last 20 years or so is the outstanding series of books on the historic architecture of this small place.

The brainchild of the Bermuda National Trust, under the guiding hands of Margaret Lloyd and the late Rosemary Clipper, the clutch of seven of a projected ten volumes is the major published record of the extraordinary legacy of domestic, business, government and ecclesiastical buildings that fortunately have largely survived into the modern (“It’s a ‘tear-down’.”) era in these islands.

Compared to other small islands of the Americas, there is indeed little to compare in the breadth and scope of those accounts of Bermuda’s unique vernacular heritage, a goodly portion of which in the Town of St. George’s is verified “World Heritage”.

The latest volume (published December 2014) in the BNT series is on the City of Hamilton, in all sectors and covering all types of historical buildings. The book was written by the late David White OBE, sometime editor of The Royal Gazette, supported by a large team of volunteers, and others, who gave much to produce yet another cornucopia of facts and images for all who love the unique architecture heritage of Bermuda. The publication is supported most generously by Bacardi International, one of the island’s outstanding corporate citizens.

The book naturally touches on the high points of architectural interest in all areas of the City of Hamilton. It also begins on the highest ground on which, as was often tradition, the main church of the town was placed, in this case the Anglican Cathedral. The title of the first chapter, “To the Glory of God”, thus opens this broadside on the glories of buildings throughout the Town and City.

Let us join the BNT team in a brief perambulation about the City, which, for all the devastation of the past, is still in the present a remarkable place of fine buildings, designed and erected by citizens from all sections of the community.

From the various churches, we march on to view the buildings of civil authority such as the House of Assembly and the original city hall, yet standing and in public service. Good structures erected by the famous “Friendly Societies” are found, as are the great houses of business on Front and other streets. Indicative of a coming source of prosperity throughout the island are the now lost Hamilton Hotel and other hostelries and we should remember that once lumber yards, smitheries and house stables once coexisted within the limits of the town, most now banished to the hinterland of former marshes.

The tour could be almost endless, after viewing the wonderful homes of prominent families in northeast Hamilton and doubling back through the less commercial areas of the town towards in west on the fashionable Victoria and other northern streets.

Indeed, it is fair to say that there is something in this splendid tome for every eye and every pallet of all those who take pride in things Bermudian, of which our architecture heritage is the most brilliant beacon in a sea of bright lights of all the extraordinary things we have inherited from the Past.

The book also casts shadows over what has been lost of churches, businesses, homes, and our singular Opera House (destroyed by Nature in a hurricane), that is to mention the low points of the history of Hamilton’s buildings. Still, if properly managed, the high points of Hamilton’s architectural heritage have much to contribute to “Cultural Tourism”, for the buildings that have endured are extremely worthy of being placed on the itinerary of the discerning visitor.

That is to say little of the value of historic architecture to give people a sense of place and identity, which such buildings can inculcate on one and all throughout lifetimes. While some might like to hark back to community origins of bygone centuries and change some lifestyles to suit, it is likely that few if any, would replace our unique architectural heritage with building of other countries’ yesteryears. There is little that is more Bermudian than our historic buildings.

The City of Hamilton yet reflects many aspects of that proud, unique and wonderful architecture, Bermudian-built and sustained. “Everybody knows that”, as the insurance ad goes, but if you wish to answer, with Bermudian pride, “But did you know that…”, you may have to go out and buy this new National Trust book — and the six others if they are not on your bookshelf.

Above: One of the most distinctive buildings in the City of Hamilton was on the eastern side of Burnaby Hill and was suitably called “The Tower”. It was eventually replaced by the modern building of Butterfield Bank.
Right: The cover of the Bermuda National Trust’s latest book on Bermuda’s magnificent historic architecture shows official buildings off of Front Street in the late 1850s, the nearest now being the “Cabinet Office” of the Bermuda Government.