For a few months now, sitting under my desk, I have had a three litre (double magnum) of Chateau D’Esclans “Garrus” rosé from Sacha Lichine in Provence. I have just moved it to a safer spot after reading that on August 3, 2014, at a chef’s charity dinner on Long Island NY, someone paid $15,000 for a similar bottle.

Why would I bring the subject of rosé up when surely it is a summer wine? Well, to be honest, this is no longer the case. In France, since the turn of this century, the rosé share of overall wine sales has increased from ten per cent to 30 per cent. Provence leads the world with this surge that is happening everywhere, and most certainly on our Island. Exports of French rosé grew 62 per cent in 2011 and 41 per cent in 2012.

The new wave of gently tannic, well-structured and quite full-bodied wines offers what one writer called “affordable luxury” and they are as happy with grilled fish and seafood as they are with roast meats, fruit dishes and cheese.

The leader in this market change is Bordeaux-born and USA-educated Sacha Lichine. His 2006 acquisition of Chateau D’Esclans in Provence has helped in building a world-class trend and unprecedented growth of fine rosé. His consulting oenologist is Patrick Leon who was managing director for over 20 years of the wine estates of Baron Phillipe de Rothschild, which included the great Chateau Mouton Rothschild.

Each year for the past four I have attempted to buy enough Whispering Angel rosé from Chateau D’Esclans and each year we have run out of stock and so has the Chateau itself. In October I met with their export director Alaine Rivere and Sasha Lichine and once again, for 2015, we have planned to have sufficient wine in our cellar. As I write, we are unloading Whispering Angel, which is a blend of Grenache, Rolle (Veremtino), Cinsault, Syrah and Tibouren. It would be hard to believe that there is anyone out there that would not enjoy the light strawberry, lemon, cherry, jasmine and other mouth-watering flavours in this bottle. It is a wine that shares the joy of summer smells and aromas with us on a chilly winter evening. $25.55.

For the price of half a dozen red roses you could share a great wine with your valentine. I refer to “Les Clans” 2011 Chateau D’Esclans rosé. The Wine Spectator writes: “The mouth-watering flavours of dried cherry, currant and ripe pear are flanked by concentrated notes of allspice and dark chocolate. The finish unfolds with layers of candied ginger, pineapple and cream that are unctuous and complex. Drink now through 2016.” $57.05.

Maybe for the 14th you are thinking that bubbles should be the way to show affection and so why not consider the one rosé Champagne that has been the world’s most sought after for many years. It is the Laurent Perrier Cuvee Rosé Brut that is made 100 per cent from Pinot Noir grapes. The glorious pink colour is not derived by the common method of adding a little red wine, but by the ancient “saignee” process of letting the juice sit on the grape skins for three days or so. Let me quote The Connoisseurs Guide publication: “96/100. Elegant and fruity at the same time with a quick invitation from bright, pure cherryish notes and then filled out handsomely by whiffs of chalky soils and well-integrated, rich and uplifting yeast-driven scents, this wine manages to be both vigorous and layered at one and the same time. Its bubbles are insistent, finely carved and add to the early sensations of lightness and energy yet also carry the wine long into a balanced, refined finish. And its latter palate grip is exactly what one should expect from the genre. While service with light foods would be our first choice, this one has the beauty to stand alone.” $96.85 a bottle and $221.70 for the magnum.

This column is a paid for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East. 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits is available online at www.wineonline.bm.