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Why serve a magnum of wine?

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Size guide: A magnum is the equivalent of two standard bottles and is thought to be the ideal size for ageing wine

We all know that the popular size for “Monday to Thursday night wines” (translate as inexpensive) is a magnum, and this is mostly based on economics.

For instance, Barefoot Pinot Grigio magnums are $20.35 and half that amount in a standard bottle is $10.90. Yes, I will unabashedly admit that I find this Pinot Grigio a very pleasant sip.

This article will be about the higher end magnums that many believe are the most ideal size for ageing wine, and it is thought that this has something to do with the ratio of air below the cork and the volume of the liquid.

I should warn you that usually these cost more than two bottles and this has to do with the handling, storage, filling in the winery, and possibly expectations.

But why even worry about age in a world where 90 per cent of wine purchased is consumed within 24 hours, and 95 per cent within a week?

We are told that only one per cent of all wine improves after five years. Not only do I thoroughly appreciate the changes that some wines go through, I also believe that the theatre involved in presenting a magnum to friends at the dinner table just adds to and elevates the occasion.

Let’s start with Chateau D’Esclans Whispering Angel rosé from Provence. I had a gentleman in my office this month who was interviewing me about the wine market here and I mentioned the popularity of Whispering Angel.

When I stated that the French drink more rosé than white, he resorted to his laptop and Google as he did not believe me. It told him that 75 million cases of rosé and 45 million cases of white were sold in France last year.

Provence led the way and it fair to say that Whispering Angel led Provence.

The 2013 magnums are a blend of Grenache, Rolle (Vermentino), Cinsault, Syrah and Tibouren grapes, which scored 90/100 with critic James Suckling and Decanter Magazine calling it mouthwatering with cherry and jasmine. It costs $49.95.

For $80.85 we offer an amazing and beautifully aged magnum that Robert Parker rated 94/100.

He wrote: “This is a classic Malbec, one you might almost think came from the Old World. Underpinned by great structure and a sense of masculinity yet superbly balanced with plenty of ripe, earthy black fruit, laced with tar and tobacco towards the long, rather aristocratic finish.”

This is the Catena Alta Malbec 2009 and it is the wine that originally opened up the wonders of Argentina for me.

One of our best-selling wines for many years is the Super Tuscan called Campaccio from the Terrabianca (White Earth) Estate.

Always a top-scoring wine, the 2009 vintage was awarded 93/100 by writer Antonio Galloni. This 70 per cent Sangiovese and 30 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon blend is intense with elegant aromas of berry fruit, chocolate, leather and roasted almond. The balance is quite perfect and the tannins silky.

One evening on our porch with the then owners of Terrabianca (they have since sold), Maia and Roberto Guldener, I learned an important lesson.

“What wine would you like to drink?” I asked. “Campaccio of course,” they replied.

I then asked why they would have their own wine and they told me that wherever they travelled they needed to drink their own wine as it just seemed to change and take on some of the character of each country. Wow! It costs $58.75 for the magnum. If you are having the family over for dinner, how about a 12-litre bottle of the 2010 for $636.35? You just have to pull one cork and not 16.

• This column is a paid for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East. 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St. George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits are available online at www.wineonline.bm

Mouthwatering: Chateau D’Esclans Whispering Angel rosé
“Pleasant sip”: Barefoot Pinot Grigio magnums are $20.35