Log In

Reset Password
BERMUDA | RSS PODCAST

Sauvignon Blanc with a difference

A few months ago we brought in a selection of wines from my old friend David Stare and we did this because of his intense interest in all things sailing related and the impending America’s Cup.

His Dry Creek Vineyards in the Dry Creek Valley of Sonoma does, and has sponsored, many sailing events around the world, including one of the teams to race in the last cup in San Francisco.

If I were asked to name the wine that this winery is best known for I would have to say Sauvignon Blanc and we have just landed their 2014 that is a unique blend of 82 per cent Sauvignon Blanc, 14 per cent Sauvignon Musqué and four per cent Sauvignon Gris.

This marks the first time that the winery has used Sauvignon Gris.

Fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks at a very cool 55 degrees Fahrenheit for almost a month. This produces a wonderful brightness with fresh citrus, lime and creamy notes that are vibrant.

The normal much higher temperatures that can form tend to dull the fruit, especially with white wines. On the palate you will notice honeysuckle, Asian pear, spicy undertones and a richness of texture even though there is no oak ageing. You can purchase this Sauvignon Blanc that is seamless from start to finish for $18.85 and please note the classic sailing vessel on its label, and on all Dry Creek wines for that matter.

You may have admired his role as cinematographer on Gravity, Dawn of the Planet of the Apes, Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban, Midnight Express and many others, but when I hear the name of New Zealander Michael Seresin I think of one of the finest Sauvignon Blancs that I have ever tasted. I am not alone, as a previous vintage of this wine placed first out of 75 from New Zealand in a London tasting.

His vineyards are famed biodynamically and certified organic, animals assist in the labour to avoid the use of machines. Michael himself realises the impact on our environment of eating meat and so he does not do this. Of course the fruit is handpicked and as only indigenous yeasts that exist on his land are used they add a totally unique sense of place or terroir, as well as complexity and texture.

The final blend of the Seresin 2013 Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough is 94 per cent Sauvignon Blanc and six per cent Sémillon. Most producers would pick all the fruit and place it in the press, but not Seresin. Eighteen parcels of Sauvignon Blanc and two of Sémillon were pressed and fermented separately so that their winemaker had a greater range of options when creating the final blend. Approximately 15 per cent was fermented and aged in used (less influence on the wine) French oak barriques.

Wine critic Stephen Tanzer wrote: “Bright yellow, subdued, pure aromas of nectarine, spices, minerals, liquorice and honey. Broad, concentrated, ripe and dry with a tactile dusty texture to the pineapple fruit. Finishes chewy, savoury and very persistent with uncompromising dryness. Serious stuff.”

As we watch currency fluctuations we are tweaking prices and the new, slightly lower price for this wine is $24.75.

Although it may not fit with the heading this week I really should mention the towns of Sancerre and Pouilly in the Loire Valley of France as they have certainly made their indigenous Sauvignon Blanc grape popular everywhere.

As some folks claim to detect a slight smokiness the word fumé has been added to the wines of Pouilly, but to be quite honest you would have to be a very particular taster to readily ascertain the difference between Sancerre and Pouilly Fume.

We stock both from Pascal Jolivet who farms his land organically and is working towards biodynamic principles. We have both from the 2014 vintage and although I am not sure why, we sell far more Sancerre than Pouilly Fume.

Here you will find a very clean, fresh and elegant wine that does not have the pungency of the ever popular New Zealand offerings. Both are $27.50.

This column is a paid for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn has stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits is available online at www.wineonline.bm.