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How Super Tuscans took the world by storm

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Lovely for summer: Monte Antico Supremus has a bouquet of violets and cherries (Photograph supplied)

When I was new to this trade in the 1970s, Chianti was sold in inexpensive, straw-covered “fiascos” that often ended up as candle holders.

The law required that as well as the classic Tuscan Sangiovese grape, Canaiolo and two white varieties called Malvasia and Trebbiano had to be in the blend.

The use of small oak barrels was also not allowed.

By the 1980s, winemakers wanted to make better wines and so they did by introducing Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and others to their mix, or even just making 100 per cent Sangiovese offerings.

As there was no category in law to name these, such as Chianti or Brunello, they became known as Super Tuscans and they took the world by storm.

Now with changed laws, these are called IGT or “Indication of Geographic Type” and even Chianti rules stipulate that at least 80 per cent Sangiovese, but now the rest can be Italian or international grapes.

The name ‘Super Tuscan’ does not have to also mean expensive.

Neil and Maria Empson, who have visited here countless times, were one of the first to produce one and they call it Monte Antico.

The 2010 consists of 85 per cent Sangiovese, ten per cent Merlot and five per cent Cabernet Sauvignon.

Despite the fact that we sell it for only $13.85, it received a 91/100 score from critic James Suckling, who wrote: “A fruity wine with black cherry, blueberry and hints of pepper.

“Full and velvety with a long and delicious finish. Acidity is well-integrated with the fruit. One of the best values from Tuscany. Screw cap.”

At $24, Monte Antico Supremus 2010 has 15 per cent Merlot and ten per cent Cabernet Sauvignon added to the Sangiovese base.

It is deep ruby red in colour and has an intense, persistent bouquet of violets and cherries along with elegant notes of vanilla and toasted wood, minerality nuances and hints of leather, chocolate, black pepper and cinnamon.

Sweet, mellow tannins give a velvety texture to the long, lingering finish. I would suggest that both the Monte Antico wines would be lovely with summer, outdoor grill cooking.

If you would like to step up to something really serious then I recommend that you try a wine from San Felice that they call Vigorello.

The 2010 is a blend of 50 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 45 per cent Merlot and five per cent Petit Verdot, and although it is very enjoyable now it does have the potential to mature until 2025.

You will find all the right stuff here: chocolate, cherries, currants, liquorice, blackberries, tar, smoke and a sweet hint of vanilla.

This is an excellent example of how grape varieties of Bordeaux origin can flourish in Tuscany. It costs $47.70.

There must be something about Super Tuscans and Bermuda as the owners of San Felice have offices here and the previous owners of Terrabianca loved it here.

I am safe in saying that Campaccio from Terrabianca has been the most asked for here in its price category of $28.80 for many years now.

The 2010 is 70 per cent Sangiovese and 30 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon.

Its superb structure, harmony and depth displays elegant berry fruit, chocolate, leather and roasted almond followed by silky tannins.

I know that I have told this story before, but I do think it worth repeating.

Then-owners Roberto and Maia were sitting on our porch and I offered them a choice of wines that I thought they might not have tried before. He told me that if possible he would rather have Campaccio.

“My wine takes on the character of the country,” he said. “It tastes different in each one”.

He wanted to see what the beauty of our Island would add. He was pleased and once again I learnt something new.

We have many Super Tuscans and those with higher Sangiovese content are suitable with many types of seafood; ideal for summer nights.

• This column is a paid for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn has stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits is available online at www.wineonline.bm

Once upon a time: The law once required that as well as the Tuscan Sangiovese grape, Canaiolo and two white varieties, Malvasia and Trebbiano, had to be in the Chianti blend (Photograph supplied)
San Felice Vigorello (Photograph supplied)
Terrabianca Campaccio (Photograph supplied)
Monte Antico Toscano (Photograph supplied)