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Late-season storms will affect your garden

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Storm aftermath: a resident cleans the area near his home after Hurricane Joaquin last month(Photograph by Blaire Simmons)

Late-season hurricanes can leave their mark in more ways than one.

They can create a situation where new growth will start to show, but slower than normal owing to the decline in temperature as we reach the end of the “growing season”. Damage appears to be limited, in most cases, to wind burn and broken branches and, in some areas, movement of root systems by high wind gusts. In such cases removal of some top growth to reduce further wind damage will greatly assist if the root system is generally in good order. Staking can help support the plant until the root system becomes strong enough to anchor the plant on its own.

It is wise to check all plants to ensure the root system is stable. It is also important to prune any broken or twisted branches, to clean wood and turn to an outward facing leaf node which will encourage new growth to grow outward, thus creating more balance to the plant. Also, strip any damaged foliage and remove all debris from the soil area as this can be a host to pest and disease problems.

With the wet weather experienced of late, any decaying matter can create problems and should be removed. As new growth starts to appear check for pest activity, especially aphids and caterpillars which will thrive on new growth, and spray accordingly to control before the problem spreads to other areas in the garden. On a minor scale in torrential rain, ponding can occur which can be prevalent in shallow soils with hard underlying rock where water does not soak away quickly.

Lawns will also require inspection as to weed infestation. With the damp morning’s fungal problems on St Augustine, and to a degree Floratem, this will be more prevalent in areas of shade which do not dry out quickly and can thus act as an incubator for diseases.

With heavy rains comes the action of leaching of plant nutrients and at such times, when plants are attempting to reorganise themselves to produce growth plant nutrients, if deficient, will slow the process. An application of a good general fertiliser which also contains trace elements will assist in the recovery process.

There is still time to replace material lost in the hurricane with like or, if a change is considered, review all aspects of the area to accommodate the needs of the selection. Annuals are now available in a wide range of varieties from tall to spreading types. Flowers come in all hues and variations — white alyssum, yellow/orange marigolds and colours galore in petunias, impatiens, phlox, etc. Annuals are usually sold in cell packs making them easy to transplant straight into the ground.

Check for pest and diseases when selecting the cell packs, also that the plants are “young” and not pot-bound and “hard” in appearance. Before planting, ensure the planting area is free from weed growth including roots and stones; incorporate some well-composted manure or similar into the top couple of inches of soil before planting, and firm soil. Moisten the soil before planting. The distance between plants will vary from variety to variety so read the label, which normally indicates spacing. Use a dibber to plant, making a small hole the size of the cell pack, and gently insert into soil and firm root system into surrounding soil. Give a gentle overhead watering to settle seedlings into soil; follow up with watering if soil dries out and give the occasional liquid fertiliser applications to encourage good growth.

Malcolm Griffiths