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Platinum wines make rare and special gifts

Stunningly rich: the 2010 Shafer Hillside Select Stags Leap District cabernet sauvignon has fragrant notes of blackcurrants, blackberries, vanilla, graphite and spring flowers

In wine competitions, a wine that rates over 90/100 is awarded a gold medal and ones that score 95 points or higher are often given platinum.

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate comments on the latter: “An extraordinary wine of profound and complex character displaying all the attributes expected of a classic wine of its variety. Wines of this calibre are worth a special effort to find, purchase and consume.”

I should warn that the danger if one buys for a special and rare gift, is that it might just prove too difficult to part with!

The year 2010 is one of the best that I have ever witnessed on a worldwide scale and one in which the virtually perfect weather patterns reveal themselves gloriously through wine.

It is the type of vintage that caused Omar Khayyam of ancient Persia to write in his Rubaiyat: “I often wonder what the vintners buy, one half so precious as the stuff they sell.”

I present my case for Italy with two wines, one that rates 95/100 and one 96/100.

Masi, that traces its history back to the son of playwright and poet Dante Alighieri in the 1300s, was the first to make a wine called Amarone. In this land of Romeo and Juliet they lay the Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes out to dry on bamboo mats for about three months.

The somewhat raisin-like fruit is then pressed to create a wine that is totally unique.

Here is what the Wine Enthusiast magazine had to say about our 2010 Masi Costasera Amarone della valpolicella classico: “Ninety-five out of 100 and cellar selection, ripe, dark fruit, nutmeg, clove and tobacco aromas lead the nose on this bold and balanced wine.

The rich palate delivers black plum, raisin, black pepper and liquorice supported by velvety tannins and fresh acidity. Combining elegance and power, it boasts wonderful depth. Drink 2015 to 2025.”

I think that it is quite remarkable that we can sell this for $49.85, but the weaker euro has put us in a position where this and the next wine have come down quite a bit.

If we leave northeastern Italy and travel down to Tuscany we come to a small village and winery that bear the name San Felice.

As I drive along our Front Street on my way to the office I see the sign of an insurance company that owns them.

San Felice has partnered with the universities of Florence and Pisa and their experimental vineyard grows well over 200 indigenous grape varieties, one of which, the pugnitello, was rescued from a single remaining vine!

Over the past 30 years, many have been prevented from fading into oblivion by this amazing programme.

Here is what critic James Suckling has to say about the San Felice 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Campogiovanni: “Ninety-six out of 100. Perfect aromas in this red with liquorice, stone, peach pit, plum, leather and iron.

“Full body, fine and silky tannins support a deep and rich fruit concentration that shows black fruit, Tuscan dust and oyster shell.”

Wine Spectator rated it 95/100 and wrote about cedar, tobacco, black cherry and minerals. $46.70 a bottle and for $99.85 we have magnums of the 2009, another fine year.

Let us end with something so incredible and extremely rare, a 100/100 point wine.

I have stood in the Hillside Vineyard with John Shafer and looked up at the two rock precipices where Indian lore tells of a giant stag leaping from one to the other and thus escaping a hunting party.

John pointed to tall poles where hawks perched and others with little homes for owl families. These avian creatures take care of the local rodent pests and avoid any poisons on the land; the farming is organic, the winery is solar-powered and the water is recycled.

Here is what Robert Parker has to say about the 2010 Shafer Hillside Select Stags Leap District cabernet sauvignon: “One hundred out of 100. A remarkable wine that has gone from strength to strength since it was in cask.

“It is stunningly rich, with classic, fragrant notes of blackcurrants, blackberries, vanilla, graphite and spring flowers.

“It exhibits an opaque purple colour, with a full-bodied, massive mouth-feel, but no heaviness, and again, a flawless integration of acidity, tannin, alcohol and wood.

“It is classic Californian cabernet, but beautifully put together, showing impeccable craftsmanship and fabulous potential.”

It is amazing now but will last for 50 years. $292.85.

• This column is a paid for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits is available online at www.wineonline.bm