For many years I have told the story of how British sailors fortified red Portuguese wines with neutral grape spirits (brandy) so that they could better survive the rough trip to England.

It seems now that this is not true, as it really started back in 1678 when a wine merchant from Liverpool sent two of his staff to Portugal to learn the trade.

They were so pleased with what they found that they sent a large shipment to their homeland. It proved to be very popular and the fact that it was traditionally fortified in this area also helped to make it survive the voyage in good shape.

The Port trade was helped by a treaty in 1703 that provided for very low duties on these great, sweet wines, while at the same time England had been at war with France and wines from this country were not allowed at all. Once the wine traders in the Mother Country caught on to what was going on they travelled to Portugal to set up their own wineries. This is why, rather than the traditional Portuguese names we hear on our island, names like Taylor and Graham dominate today; the former being founded in 1692 and the latter much later in 1890. Croft, that is now owned by Taylor’s, is the oldest and dates back to 1588.

There are the pleasant everyday Ports such as Taylor’s Ruby and Tawny for $22.05 and our Graham’s Ruby at $23.05 and Tawny for $24.20. Really the next level up is an invention of Taylor’s called Late Bottled Vintage. We have their LBV 2011 for $30.70 and the Graham’s LBV 2009 for $30.55. This is how it works. Vintage Port spends a year or so in barrel and is then put in bottle where it takes decades to reach its peak. LBV spends a few years in barrel and ages far more quickly. It is ready to drink once bottled and it never reaches the perfection of a great vintage wine, but it is most enjoyable.

The average years go into the already mentioned Ports, but about three years out of every ten the producers will declare the year to be fine enough to bottle on its own. Only two per cent of their total production becomes one of our world’s greatest and longest-lived vintage Port wines. Wine Spectator magazine rates 2011 99/100, 2003 98/100, 1997 96/100 and so on.

Here are a few to choose from: Taylor’s 2011 — Wine Spectator: “97/100. Powerful, featuring concentrated dark plum and spicy cherry flavours that are finely balanced, showing notes of raspberry preserves. The mocha and wild herb accents are interwoven and supported by powerful tannins. The finish offers intense grip and violet hints.” $128.

Wine Spectator also rated the Croft 2011 97/100 and said: “Effusively juicy, rich and concentrated, showing plenty of snap to the crisp and well-spiced flavours of wild berry, dark currant and plum tart. Orange-infused chocolate notes linger on the exotic, mocha-filled finish. Best from 2020 through 2045.” $97.25.

Going back a little in time we have the Graham’s 2003 that garners a 96/100 from Wine Enthusiast magazine and 95/100 from Robert Parker. A bottle will cost you $111.35. Older vintage Ports cast quite a bit of sediment and so if you are buying an older one I suggest that you leave it standing up for a week of so before decanting.

Well aged Tawny Port is really the “in” thing now. Most are aged for ten, twenty, thirty or forty years in barrel where they take on a tawny colour and wonderful intensity due to evaporation through the wood. They are bottled when ready to drink and have the advantage of no sediment. We have a selection from Taylor’s and Graham’s that range in price from $42.75 to $192.80.

Maybe, as it is Christmas time, you would like to have one of the greatest wine experiences that any of us can have anywhere? Maybe you would like an incredible Tawny Port that was discovered by Taylor’s a few years ago? Two barrels had peacefully slept in an ancient cellar since 1855 and when tasted by Robert Parker he scored it a perfect 100/100. Today we have this precious nectar in a handblown decanter and packaged in a beautiful furniture-quality wooden box. Step back 161 years to a time before the motor car, electricity, even the bicycle, dynamite or the typewriter. This would be a lifetime event to share with good friends. $3,790.65. Think of it as only $23.54 per year of age.

How about something a tad younger? Also equally impressively packaged is our Taylor’s 1863, another 100 point example of sheer perfection. Here is what Forbes magazine wrote: “What’s so special about 1863? Other than the Civil War raging into its third year, and the founding of the Red Cross, it’s considered the last great vintage year for Port, before phylloxera destroyed Europe’s vineyards. Early reviews have been stunning. Neal Martin at the Wine Advocate rated it 98 points and Mark Squires rated it 100 points, noting ‘this simply deserves all the plaudits you can give it’.” Also priced at $3.790.65.

This column is a paid for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn has stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits are available online at www.wineonline.bm.