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The British are coming

‘In victory I deserve it, in defeat I need it’ — Winston Churchill on champagne

If you suspect that I am about to tell you how, during the American Revolution, patriot Paul Revere shouted this phrase and warned of the approach of British troops, I can assure you that I am sticking to a wine theme only.

We have just landed Ridgeview sparkling wines from a small family producer in Sussex and before you think that “we have gone absolutely bonkers”, as the Brits might say, let me assure you there is quite a story to tell.

In May of this year it was announced that Ridgeview had been chosen as the official supplier for Downing Street receptions.

The Queen served Ridgeview at Buckingham Palace to the Chinese Premier Xi Jinping along with her husband, the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, the Prime Minister and Labour leader Jeremy Corbyn. Gordon Ramsay is serving it in his new restaurant in Bordeaux. It is not just a matter of them being patriotic as Ridgeview bubblies won “Best Sparkling Wine” in the 2010 Decanter World Wine Awards and, of course, champagnes were well represented.

In 2005 and 2011 at the International Wine and Spirits Competition, Ridgeview won “Best Bottle Fermented Sparkling Wine”. And on the list goes.

A report to the Royal Society in December of 1662 mentions the production of sparkling wines in Britain and although I would not want to cause any ruckus with those folks on the other side of the Channel, I have read some reports that suggest that the very first sparkling wine was made in our mother country. Sad as the whole subject of climate change is, the fact is that temperatures are running higher in Sussex and vineyard owners are finding that they can gradually replace cold climate Germanic grape varieties with the traditional chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier that are the only varieties allowed in the Champagne District.

It is not difficult to guess the identity of the Ridgeview team with names like Tamara, Simon and Mardi Roberts, Simon Larder, Holly Flinton and Robin Langton. Their original vineyard was planted in 1994 and with help from Epernay (Champagne District) 13 French clones of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier were planted on three different root stocks.

Let’s start with the Ridgeview Bloomsbury, their signature blend. It is dominated by chardonnay and supported by the fullness of pinot noir and pinot meunier. It has a light golden colour with a fine, persistent mousse. There are citrus fruit aromas with hints of melon and honey. Chardonnay brings finesse along with crisp freshness. The pinots add depth, leading to a beautifully balanced finish. Over the years, in wine competitions, this has won four special trophies and six gold medals. Very well respected wine critic Jancis Robinson MW wrote in the Financial Times: “Subtle, dry and wonderfully zesty with real finesse and sophisticated length. Delicious and serious.”

Another writer says: “If you haven’t yet tasted English sparkling wine, grab a bottle of this stuff and marvel at world-class finesse, elegance and quality.” $49.90.

People are often surprised to find out that red grapes dominate in the majority of champagnes and, in fact, one year my wife and I were there and we witnessed the grapes being crushed and we saw how the clear must (juice) was separated from the colour-giving skins immediately. A historical note is that hundreds of years ago most of the wines from the Champagne District were still and red.

Ridgeview Cavendish is their more traditional blend. It is dominated by red fruits of pinot noir and pinot meunier and supported by crisp chardonnay notes. A wine like this will match with just about any food type. Duck, turkey or goose would be divine.

You may be disappointed as that second bite of chocolate is never as good as the first, as you have clogged your taste buds with sweet, rich oils. No worries here, as a sip between bites of this wine cleanses the palate like nothing else will. If you are having a hot, spicy Eastern dish and your mouth is on fire, again to the rescue as those millions of bubbles and acidity make the heat disappear like magic. $49.90.

Churchill said of champagne: “In victory I deserve it, in defeat I need it.” He also said that the first occasion when he met Franklin Roosevelt was “like opening your first bottle of champagne; knowing him was like drinking it”. I feel confident that if Churchill could experience these English wines, he would be proud to change champagne to British bubbly.

This column is a paid-for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn has stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits is available online at www.wineonline.bm