Last week, much of the talk was of fires in California and I thought back to the event when Marvin Shankin, of The Wine Spectator, thanked about 2,000 of us for supporting New York City during a time when smoke was still swirling up from ground zero.

That was October of 2001 and even mayor Rudy Giuliani stood up among us and thanked us so very much for showing faith in his great city.

Fortunately, 70 per cent of the Northern California 2017 harvest was in before strong winds bought down power lines that started many of the Sonoma, Mendocino and Napa fires. It will not be known if the remaining grapes will suffer any “smoke taint” until the wine is made.

People asked what effect the ash would have on the soil and Wine Spectator senior editor James Laube (I have his 1989 book California’s Great Cabernets) spoke of very strong winds howling around his house as they tried to keep the smoke out, and it was felt that much of the ash would be blown away. Removing the rest and rebuilding homes will take at least two years and in an area where there was already a housing shortage; FEMA has bought in 1,000 temporary homes, but many more are needed.

To better understand the potential for fires, let me share this: a few years ago my wife and I were having lunch at a popular Napa Valley restaurant and we noticed that customers were getting up to go to the windows and stare at the sky. When I asked our friends why this was happening they told us that it was raining and when I asked why this was such an event, I was told that they had not had a drop for seven months.

Out-buildings were lost at Stags Leap Winery that we represent, and pictures looked frightening, but the main winery was saved. I spoke to next-door neighbour Doug Shafer, who told me that vineyards make excellent firebreaks, and they had no damage. There may have been wines poured that were as good as their Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon, but it was certainly one of the “top drops” of the weekend. We have seven vintages in stock and I think there is nothing better from the New World. First reports told of the total destruction of Chateau St Jean in Sonoma, but it turns out that the beautiful main building was not damaged. It truly is a showplace worth visiting, as I have done for more than 35 years. Few pockets of fire are left now and California certainly appreciates the fire trucks that came from as far as Washington, Oregon and Arizona.

Approximately 270 wineries from around the world presented their top wines during two nights of tastings. There were also two days of seminars and, overall, the oldest wine that we tasted was CUNE Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva 1976 and this was presented at a seminar hosted by Spanish “wine star”, Victor Urrutia. I found it interesting that it still had its original cork and, although many great wines do re-cork from time to time, we were told that CUNE never does as they feel that the custom changes the wine a bit. My notes describe a bright colour that faded on the edges (typical of an old wine) and a nose that I found reminiscent of an old bordeaux. It certainly was alive at 41 years. We presently have stocks of the CUNE Imperial Gran Reserva 2009 and 2010 that sell for $78. In 2013 the Wine Spectator chose the 2004 as their “Wine of the Year” out of more than 16,000 tasted.

The next oldest wine at a seminar was the 1977 Graham’s Vintage Port. One of the family that own Graham’s, Rupert Symington, spoke of a young wine being rather like “100 people in a room all talking at the same time”. As it aged “one could pick out the individual voices (layers and parts)”.

During a chat later, I told Rupert that when I presented his 1977 at a dinner party some years ago, I told those gathered that they were tasting absolute perfection. This is all gone now but we do have Graham’s 1991 $109.70, 1994 $131.70, 1997 $99.60, 2000 $123.05, 2003 $113.70 and 2011 $135.70. Various publications rate them, in order, 94/100, 96/100, 95/100, 98/100, 96/100, #9 on Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines in the World, and finally 96/100.

Rupert told me that they had not had a drop of rain in the Douro Valley for at least a year and even trees were dying. Of course global warming is always a topic with vintners and there were a few references to a rather high-up individual in the United States who did not believe in it!

The overall star tasting had to be Corinne Mentzelopoulos presenting her great first growth Chateau Margaux. We started with their white wine that is a 100 per cent sauvignon blanc called Pavilon Blanc and then moved on to the reds from 2009, 2004, 1995, 1989 and 1986. We actually stock the Chateau Margaux 1995 and here is what my notes read: “Still very dark but showing a lighter orange rim (sign of age). Classic nose — just lovely. Ageing beautifully now but still many years to go.” Seventy-five per cent cabernet sauvignon, 17 per cent merlot, 5 per cent petite verdot and 3 per cent cabernet franc. Corinne told us that they manage tannins better these days and therefore the wines can be very enjoyable at a younger age. If you would like a bottle of the 1995 all you have to do is part with $1,000.50.

• This column is an advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. E-mail mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn has stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). Visit www.wineonline.bm