When coffee shop culture started to seriously trend in North America in the mid-1990s, Bermuda was not far behind.

And today, 21 years after opening for business, Rock Island Coffee continues to exude the friendly, laid-back feel that set it apart from its competitors.

The coffee shop and tea room has weathered economic ups and downs and now has a winning focus on serving “really good coffee and baked goods”, while keeping its cosy atmosphere and artisan roots.

Rock Island was founded in 1995 by Susannah Frith and Mark Kaufman, and was located next to the original Miles Market.

At the time the coffee shop buzz was taking off in the US, a trend reflected in the TV sitcom Friends with its Central Perk coffee shop meeting place.

Rock Island quickly established itself along similar lines with a homely, relaxing atmosphere where ‘real coffee’ was served.

“There were no real coffee shops on the island at the time, and they felt Bermuda needed fresh, roasted coffee,” said Lisabet Outerbridge, who was one of the Rock Island’s first managers.

“They bought a roaster. There was nothing like it at the time. It was a place where people went to talk and meet up and hear music.”

A year after opening, the business relocated to its current location at 48 Reid Street.

Initially, the coffee shop occupied only one room in the old building. The coffee bean roasting had to be done off-site. But as Rock Island’s popularity grew it quickly expanded, firstly taking over the clothing shop that occupied the neighbouring room in the building, then the downstairs area that had been a knit shop. That second expansion meant coffee beans could be stored and roasted on the premises. A kitchen was installed for the preparation of baked goods.

When the original owners sold the business in 1998, Ms Outerbridge and her husband John Edmunds bought it.

During her years as a manager at the shop Ms Outerbridge had learnt much about running the business. She also had previous experience working in retail sector and in restaurants and bars.

Since the 1990s the business has weathered changes and challenges, including economic ups and downs and increasing numbers of competing coffee shops and cafés. However, it has managed to hold its own.

Whereas in the past Rock Island experimented with serving food, such as soups and sandwiches, it now has a more streamlined approach.

“One of the things that people get wrong is trying to do too many things. I decided four years ago to focus on selling really good coffee and baked goods,” explained Ms Outerbridge.

The baked goods are prepared in the kitchen by baker Kerry Petty.

Keeping costs low is a crucial consideration for the business. Ms Outerbridge’s husband is a mechanic, which comes in useful when things need to be fixed at the coffee shop.

Staff are either Bermudians or spouses of Bermudians, and Ms Outerbridge said she endeavours to be fair to all the people who work for the business.

She has always strived to keep the organic feel of the original Rock Island — making it a place where people feel comfortable to come with family and friends, whether they are locals or tourists. Customers have access to free wifi, and the indoor seating area is a mishmash of easy chairs, tables and sofas, many of which have been donated by family and friends. There are also outdoor seating areas at the front and rear of the shop.

Inside, it is usual to find the walls adorned by artwork from a local talent.

“I love having artwork up, and I take no commission from the artists,” said Ms Outerbridge.

Rock Island stocks about 12 varieties of coffee, sourced from Africa, South America and Indo-Asia and shipped in from Royal Coffee in New York.

During the past two decades there has been a noticeable shift in customers’ tastes.

“The palate of Bermuda has changed. Customers are getting into the bolder coffee tastes, and we are also finding that people are cutting back on milk, ordering fewer lattes and preferring smaller, espresso-like macchiatos,” said Ms Outerbridge.

While the coffee shop has survived good and bad economic times, Ms Outerbridge said she would like to see greater awareness from government towards the needs of small businesses.

She is happy to keep Rock Island as a “small artisan” concern, rather than build out the business. And reflecting on her time in charge, she said: “My best decision was buying the coffee shop. I really love my job, and I want to continue doing it.”

Rock Island has a website at http://rockisland.bm/ and a Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/Rock.Island.Coffee/