Log In

Reset Password
BERMUDA | RSS PODCAST

Chef’s ‘lasting legacy of flavour’

First Prev 1 2 3 Next Last
Much-loved: Arthur “Butch” Smith won global acclaim for his famous fish sandwiches

Respects have been paid both at home and abroad to the life and legacy of chef Arthur Smith, who died over the weekend at the age of 63.

Friends and family acknowledged the stature of Mr Smith in his community, as an admired but unassuming restaurateur with a keen social conscience.

Known to many as “Butch” or “Butchie”, Mr Smith gained special fame from Art Mel’s, his modest but highly popular eatery on St Monica’s Road in Pembroke, particularly for his signature fish sandwich.

Pembroke, and that neighbourhood in particular, was also his family home, although he lived in St George’s in later years.

“He was always a people person, well liked and very kind-hearted,” said his sister Patricia Armstrong, the eldest of their seven siblings.

The son of Winifred and Wilbur Smith, “Butch” learnt to cook from his mother “at a very young age”, she recalled, and their father also had a flair for cuisine — but her brother initially started out as a painter before becoming a chef.

Working in the canteen at St George’s Secondary School, Mr Smith quietly provided free meals to students who came to school with no lunch.

“Before Art Mel’s he had other interests in food, but that was his lasting and heartfelt one,” Ms Armstrong said.

A keen swimmer and handyman with bikes, Mr Smith excelled at building traditional Bermuda kites, and sometimes sold his creations.

One mystery, common with Bermudian nicknames, was the source of his informal title, “Butch”.

“Nobody could tell me where it comes from,” his sister said.

News of Mr Smith’s passing also travelled overseas.

Kristin Braswell, a travel writer who extolled the fish sandwich two years ago for Ebony magazine, called it “one of my greatest food experiences to date”, telling The Royal Gazette yesterday: “There will never be a time that I travel to Bermuda and do not make a stop there. Mr Smith has left a lasting legacy of flavour.”

Andrew Dobson, a travel blogger based in Toronto, recalled coming to the island for the first time last winter to cover local culinary tourism.

“While Bermuda is chock-full of luxurious dining, it was Art Mel’s famous fish sandwich that left the strongest impression,” he said.

“I’ve sent several friends and family to Bermuda based on my fabulous experience and all have enjoyed the sandwich as part of my must-do list of recommendations for the island.

“Sad to hear that Arthur Smith has passed but rather beautiful that his legacy will live on via his epic sandwich.”

Malisa Swan, the proprietor of the Snowball Shack, a business close by on Palmetto Road, paid tribute to Mr Smith as “one of Bermuda’s entrepreneurs, a great father, a supportive person, a friend”.

“What a sad day as the island mourns one of its greatest,” she added. Ms Swan also recalled his trademark avoidance of advertising in his adage, “I never paid to advertise in my life — all I did was make food; the customers came and bought”, adding: “Wise words from a wise man.”

Walter Roban, the acting deputy leader of the Progressive Labour Party and MP for Pembroke East, said he had built a “cordial and friendly relationship with him — I was a customer for years”.

“He was always very concerned about the community, the youth, and the welfare of the country,” he added. “He took an interest in bettering his community and he was very forthright and frank. He didn’t hold his opinion back on the political issues of the day.

“I respected him very greatly for his frankness and I was proud I had the chance to get to know him.”

The prowess of his food, particularly the fish sandwich, made him “an ambassador for Bermuda — it put Bermuda on the international map”.

Mr Roban said the popularity of Art Mel’s also brought a “positive image to the neighbourhood, as well as good business”.

That contribution was recognised by the Bermuda Tourism Authority, which issued a tribute to Mr Smith yesterday. A statement said: “He made a lasting and beloved contribution to our country’s food culture with his legendary fish sandwich. May his legacy be forever lasting. Our condolences to the Smith family.”

Lynne Woolridge, the chairwoman of the One Bermuda Alliance, also paid her respects to “one of Bermuda’s best-known chefs” who won the Best of Bermuda prize 15 times because of “his hard work, humility, and dedication to family and community”.

“It’s said that if a person builds a better mousetrap, the world will beat a path to their door. Such was the case with Mr Smith’s fish sandwich.

“Despite never advertising or even having a sign for the first 17 years of his business, people from across Bermuda and visitors from around the world beat a path to his door for those towering fish sandwiches on raisin bread.

“Mr Smith embraced and displayed true Bermudian entrepreneurial spirit, not only in starting his café but also expanding to St George’s with the opening of the second Spicy Dicy a few years ago. The accolades from around the world, including from top chefs, are a testament to his vision, drive and desire to succeed.”

Offering condolences to family, friends and customers, she added: “Mr Smith’s legacy will live on for generations and no doubt will continue to evoke in all of us that feeling of being proud to be Bermudian.”

Much-loved: Arthur “Butch” Smith won global acclaim for his famous fish sandwiches