NOT everyone in New York is scrambling to get over the river and through the woods to eat roast beasts with unbearable in-laws or distant family members. There are those of us who prefer New York at Christmas time, where all you have to do is raise your arm for a cab.For festive occasions, I used to like the Edwardian Room at the Plaza Hotel with its wooden panels and views of Central Park. Now it's closed indefinitely as most of the hotel is turned into a condo.

Though hotels are often your best bet for Christmas Day dining, more and more restaurants are electing to be open, a reflection of the city's diverse community. Here's my list of places that are nostalgic or plain fun for the holidays. And they won't ask you to help with the dishes.

Classic New York

At the Carlyle, the glamorous art deco landmark on Madison Avenue, the place to start is Bemelmans Bar -- named after the Austrian emigre who painted the murals when he couldn't pay his rent. Then walk through the black-and- white-marble foyer to the Mark Hampton-designed restaurant and settle into a banquette. The chef is now Christian Delouvrier (Lespinasse, Alain Ducasse) who is busily adapting his high-French cuisine to the tastes of those who really just want a decent roast chicken and a Cobb salad.

The Carlyle, Madison Avenue at 76th Street, (1) (212) 570-7192.

Class at Country

At Country, the brand-new restaurant in the Carlton Hotel, chef Doug Psaltis is serving brunch in the clubbier Cafe? downstairs. Psaltis, another veteran of Alain Ducasse, cooks first-rate bistro food, including a perfect frisee aux lardon. Or try the smooth chicken soup. Afterwards, go for a walk through Madison Square Park with its Flatiron Building at the corner, and the ghosts of Edith Wharton, Willa Cather and Stanford White.

Country, 90 Madison Ave., near 29th Street, (1) (212) 889-7100

The Bistro Option

In less than two years, Laurent Tourondel has built a small empire with his BLT franchise (a play on bacon, lettuce and tomato, the initials stand for Bistro Laurent Tourondel). All three places serve great steak, perfect fries and salad. I lean toward BLT Prime because it's a little dressier.

BLT Steak, 106 E. 57 St., (1) (212)752-7470; BLT Fish, 21 W. 17 St., (1) (212) 691-8888; BLT Prime, 111 E. 22 St., (1) (212) 995-8500.

For Christmas spirit, duck and dumplings, there's only one place: Shun Lee Palace, the original haute-cuisine Chinese. Its glittering décor (complete with glass dragon on the ceiling) will get you in the spirit of Chinese Christmas. The West Side branch, Shun Lee, is a little less festive.

Shun Lee Palace, 155 E. 55 St., (1) (212) 371-8844; Shun Lee (West), 43 W. 65 St., (1) (212) 595-8895.

Sushi

If you feel more like sushi and sake with a little Latin beat, Sushisamba is the place. This Japanese meets Brazilian meets Peruvian restaurant has inventive rolls and a fun vibe.

Sushisamba Park, 245 Park Ave. South, (1) (212) 475- 9377; Sushisamba 7, 87 Seventh Ave. South, (1) (212) 691- 7885.

For a little heat on Christmas day, Amma is the restaurant, even if it's not much to look at. Chef Suvir Saran delivers terrific mangalore shrimp that are marinated in cayenne pepper, turmeric, mustard and lemon with accents of torn curry leaves. And this place has some of the best lamb chops in New York.

Amma, 246 E. 51 St. (1) (212) 644-8330.

Vegetarian Zen

For vegetarians, there's Hangawi. Korean friends are quick to point out that this isn't "real" Korean food, but the refined, formal food once served to royalty and high priests. Hangawi has a whole menu just devoted to matsutake mushrooms and memorable mini-patties of tofu.

Hangawi, 12 E. 32 St., (1) (212) 213-0077.

For the most festive Christmas? Rosa Mexicano across from Lincoln Center. While the original place on First Avenue still serves better food, the West Side's interior, designed by David Rockwell, is more dazzling. Start with their famous pink pomegranate margaritas and the best guacamole in town, then ponder the red snapper on a bed of black rice.

Rosa Mexicano, 1063 First Ave., at 59th Street. (1) (212) 753-7407; and Columbus Avenue at 62nd Street. (1) (212) 977-7700.

--Editors: Hoelterhoff (jjb)

To contact the editor responsible for this story: Manuela Hoelterhoff at (1) (212) 893-3486 or mhoelterhoffbloomberg.net.

-0- Dec/19/2005 22:09 GMT