With much of the flowering growth now past leaving the remnants of what might have been, it is safe to turn our attention to creating interest through to the spring. From a flowering viewpoint, annuals be the prima donnas for the next several months.

Wind and salt spray are a constant problem at this time of year with much needed protection being of prime concern in tandem with dead heading and pinching back all annual types as they become established.

This is especially helpful with Petunias, Tagetes, Phlox, Stock, Snapdragons, though the exercise itself will encourage new flower growth. During mild spells, the appearance of flowers on Hibiscus, Jatropha and Plumbago to name but a few, will add a touch of colour and interest to the garden.

Now is a good time to do another walkabout to check the health and general condition of shrubs, trees and palms in particular, there will be excessive growth on many plants that have not previously been trimmed back, so now is an ideal opportunity to tackle this task to avoid any further damage to weakened growth.

Plants that have shown heavy growth even though having been thinned should be checked for root stability and that there is no movement in the juncture of soil and base of plant. Vines are often overlooked with regard their stability, so spend some time checking for heavy stems and thin out to reduce the weight factor on the trellis.

Palm fronds are often hit hard by winds and salt spray and being of such a size can cause damage if broken fronds are not removed cleanly at the trunk areas. However, removal of damaged fronds should be the order of the day as fronds generally are of a large and heavy nature; palms in general do not carry a large number of fronds, so during winter months the outer leaves act as a protection to the younger inner growths which could be damaged by external influences.

Whether your garden was planted by previous owners or you carried out your own planting, it is advisable to carry out a check on the proximity of plants spacing, especially those closer to the house or a wall. Too close planting to other plants or walls can adversely affect specimens as they mature by stronger species crowding out weaker types, or even as happens when planted to close to a wall or other hazard it becomes top heavy with a one-sided growth with the result it can topple over or be uplifted by strong winds this weakening the root system.

Simply pruning back does not solve the problem but can have an adverse effect in creating a very dense branch system with reduced light and air flow negating good future growth. In such cases, it is advisable to lift the shrub ensuring a good root ball is lifted and relocated to an area that will accommodate the growth habit of the species.

As Bermuda soils are not overly rich in nutrients as well as depth, consider an application of well composted manure or leafage to increase the soil mass and deliver nutrients over time, as well as acting as an arresting agent to weed growth during the winter months.

Though not a regular occurrence in Bermuda, the making of a compost heap is a worthwhile exercise in recycling one’s own garden waste; it also reduces the need to pay for imported compost.

Lawns often being comprised of a mix of lawn grasses will still be showing summer weed growth as well as the start of cool season weeds, both of which make an unattractive looking green sward of lawn! Lawn grasses for Bermuda consist of St Augustine and its hybrid Floratem, Bermuda grass and Zoysia. When applying herbicides to lawn grasses ensure it is suitable to the particular grass you want to spray, as herbicides are not necessarily compatible with all grasses.

• Malcolm D. Griffiths is a trained horticulturalist and fellow of the Chartered Institute of Horticulture in Britain. He is also past president of the Bermuda Horticultural Society, the Bermuda Orchid Society and the Bermuda Botanical Society