Early snow will get you on a slippery slope
A major news item during this traveller’s early to mid-October Colorado trip was the early opening of Arapahoe Ski Area. It was closely followed by other slopes, in a year that saw some of the earliest snowfalls in years.It was a real eye-opener to see snow packing southwestern Colorado’s lofty peaks, while green valleys still had aspen and cottonwood enhancing the view with their autumn golden glow. As usual, multi-millions are being spent to enhance, improve, expand and otherwise glamorise just about every property you’ve ever heard about.
Attracting winter sports enthusiasts is a very competitive business and as always, making news. But nowadays mere millions aren’t always enough to attract attention. In Vail, a billion dollars is being spent on resort facelifts, teardowns, rebuilds, shopping areas, new landscaping, etc.
The resort that attracted 586,004 skiers and snowboarders during the 1999-2000 season had 875,000 last season. This year visitors can expect to see ongoing construction — and hear it as well — since the changes are expected to take a few seasons and very much change Vail as many knew it.
So much is happening there, you’ll want to check with your travel agent to see what’s occurring at your favourite. Last stay there a few years back, we settled into Sonnenalp Resort and that boutique charmer has now added 40 rooms at a cost of $40 million.
Four Seasons is one of several set to open in 2008 and so much else is under construction, regulars won’t recognise the place. What they will recognise are prices often enough to make one feel they’re buying a hotel share, not renting a room.
Our October fact-finding trip to Colorado came up with two truly conversation-stopping sites. They’re in areas we’ve visited since childhood, both noted for exceptionally spectacular mountain scenery. Now they’re making news as locations for heart-stopping “extreme sports”.
Many travellers know Silverton as ultimate seasonal destination of the Denver Rio Grande Railroad out of Durango. Now, when the train stops its season runs from Durango, a different kind of action begins near this once booming mining town.
Extreme back country skiing of a variety that lures thrill seekers from around the world is making news. It’s geared to highly advanced skiers (and snowboarders) willing to take chances that would send chilblains of terror down spines of even the most adventurous.
Imagine taking a double chairlift to summit of Silverton Mountain where your equipment includes an avalanche beacon, shovel and probe. You’re at an elevation above 13,000 feet surrounded by peaks of the dramatic San Juan range even taller.
This can be done unguided until January 14th, then it’s guided-only in small groups of eight or under, with a daily total of no more than 80 or less skiers allowed from January 18 to April 1. Fees range from $49 daily unguided to $119 in January and $129 February and March per skier daily, guided for a group of eight or less. There’s also private guide service at $425 for one skier, two people $550.
Yes, this is definitely avalanche country. In fact driving through the area one May, we still saw great banks of snow along roads with signs warning drivers to watch out for avalanches.
All this excitement is only six miles from Silverton up Highway 110. Four wheel drive is recommended in inclement weather. Closest airport is Durango, 52 miles south and Montrose 50 miles north.
But Montrose means driving over the Million Dollar Highway to reach Silverton. Although it’s now much wider than when we first drove over it as children in what my father proclaimed one of our rare moments of backseat silence, induced by fear of going over endless cliffs and curves.
It’s considerably tamer now, widened and improved, but those used to driving on the other side of the road might be happier coming up from Durango.
En route one passes Purgatory, providing yet another skiing opportunity. Somewhere along the way its name has evolved into Purgatory-Durango Mountain . . . probably its original name gave some skiers pause about their ultimate destination.
At any rate, we once stayed at a great condo there on one trip. Learn more about that region at www.durangomountainresort.com. Elevation at its base is 8,793, summit 10,822 and vertical drop 2,029 feet. Longest run is two miles.
With no less than 25 unique slopes in Colorado alone, there’s an opportunity to try several on just one trip. Accommodations range from quaint and cosy lodge-like B and B’s to ski-in ski-out condos and posh resorts.
And if some of the most eye-opening sites don’t make you wonder if it’s safer (and some might even say saner) to sail off to a sunny palm-fringed beach somewhere in the tropics, nearby Ouray, 23 miles down the famed Million Dollar Highway offers even more chilling adventure — both literally and figuratively.
You've probably noticed it's become quite fashionable around the globe to climb both rock and ice walls. We sat on the balcony of Murren, Switzerland's Eiger Hotel entranced, watching two climbers through our binoculars as they inched their way across the sheer, treacherous wall below the Eiger's summit.
It was like viewing an action film, only the death toll on that Swiss peak made it all too realistic.
Ouray's ice wall out by Box Canyon is even more realistic because those who come to watch are very close-up. Visualise the scene . . . you're overlooking a narrow canyon that leads to Box Canyon. Suddenly there appears a massive wall of ice that looks like a miniature version of a frozen Niagara Falls.
If that's not treacherous enough, the top has an overhanging tendency which increases the challenge. Obviously, like the Silverton adventure described above, this is for experts only. But those who come to watch seem to find it as exciting as the participants.
We stayed at a charming location enjoyed twice before. The Ouray Victorian Inn sits beside the racing Umcompagre River with mountains in all directions. Although there are very comfortable rooms and suites in the main section of the inn, we chose to stay in the annex, because we wanted a kitchen.
Our second floor apartment had three good-sized bedrooms, two large bathrooms, and a supersized living-dining-kitchen area that was 40 feet by 30 feet.
There was a large balcony overlooking the view with picnic table and grill. Our off-season rate for four days in October was just over $600 total and included breakfast in a very pleasant sun room.
They offer a variety of winter season sports discounts, including fifty per cent off Ouray's Hot Springs pool, the enormous outdoor mineral springs whose waters were considered curative by the Ute Indians. This impressive historic village is named after their last leader, Chief Ouray. It was while soaking there we met John Denver... Telephone 800-84-OURAY.
The ice-climbing at Ouray is free, with guides for hire by the brave. There is also the possibility of "normal" skiing in nearby Silverton, not at the extreme sports peak, but a more modest slope outside town. To learn more about both areas bring up www.ouraycolorado.com and www.silvertoncolorado.com on the web.
You'll find some very good bargains in areas like this, away from some of the over-publicised, often overcrowded headline slopes . . . also some very special ski possibilities.
In a conversation with a hard-working member of Ouray's rescue squad, he spoke of his favourite outdoor sport . . . back country skiing. He's one of those brave adventurers who go out and risk their own lives to save others who've gotten into trouble in the outback.
"What I enjoy most is driving up to a remote area, then skiing unspoiled terrain for many miles down to the highway, and hitch a ride back."
His tales of dramatic year-round rescues were the stuff of movie thrillers, interestingly told a few days after we'd driven over one of the worst high altitude old mining camp roads above 12,000 feet.
"You'd be amazed how many people have gone over the cliff near Ruby Mine where you were and not survived."
Before he shared some of his chilling anecdotes, only days earlier we'd already decided following that eroding, increasingly dangerous four wheel drive route enjoyed since we were youngsters, should probably not be repeated again.
It had always been a challenge, this time we admitted it had deteriorated to the point it was too life threatening. More about safe scenic mining roads when we write about this area as a summer and autumn destination months from now.
Yes, we drove over to nearby Telluride for the umpteenth time. And there's no question that town's setting with a wall of mountains surrounding it is spectacular.
But no matter how much experts sing praises of its slopes, the increasingly devastating assassination of its former charm with excessive horrendous over-development, both in town and above at Mountain Village, now make it a place we hope never to revisit.
