IMAGINE a resort whose Great Hall with massive beams and log and stone construction has a grandeur reminiscent of a smaller Yellowstone Old Faithful Lodge.Add dramatic, heavily-wooded cliff-top scenery overlooking the Illinois River. Bisect it with miles of wilderness trails reminiscent of those where we covered so many miles hiking in Alsace, France's Vosges Mountains during 13 summers.

An abundance of local attractions and surprising historic sites offers ample opportunity for sightseeing. There's fishing, white-water rafting, golf, antiquing and on and on.

Where are you? Although lodge atmosphere seems wonderfully western and scenery has a very northwoods mood, you're only 94 miles southwest of Chicago.

Location is Starved Rock State Park and its popular lodge is one of those jewels built by the Civilian Conservation Corporation (CCC) during the 1930s depression.

But like its famous western national park cousins, it's been carefully tended and well maintained, adding just the right amount of modern amenities without destroying its character.

For years I considered it mainly a local treasure until a New York journalist friend got me thinking otherwise. Eunice Telfer Juckett was considered the ultimate jet setter by those in the travel industry. I'd be hard pressed to come up with a destination of note this perpetual motion machine had missed.

"Where are you off to next?" I'd asked, chatting with her by phone at her Easthampton, Long Island home on one of the rare instances she was there.

"Starved Rock Lodge in Illinois . . . I hear it's wonderful, a real gem." And indeed it is . . . but coming from someone who jetted from Madeira's Reids Hotel to London's Dorchester, then on to Beirut, Lebanon en route to Quito, Ecuador and was rarely home, her interest (and later enthusiastic appraisal) made me realise it held far more than local appeal. Apparently two million annual visitors to the park share that opinion.

So when you're in Chicago, either on business or perhaps enjoying the King Tut Show at the city's Field Museum, it would be an ideal change-of-pace place to relax and unwind.

Simply pick up a rental car and head for an expressway leading almost to its doorstep. What awaits will be a surprise. The state park's dramatic landscape resulted from the last great Ice Age. It carved a uniquely scenic swatch through sandstone thousands of years ago.

Deep box canyons, sheer cliffs, rocky escarpments and an abundance of waterfalls, cascading streams and rivers are the result. They definitely come as quite a surprise after crossing a landscape more noted for the fertility of its prosperous farmlands than the sights you are about to see.

Occasion for this most recent visit was the annual meeting of outdoor writers at which the Illinois Department of Natural Resources discusses various aspects of department plans — everything from fish stocking programmes and control of invading Asian carp to expanding already vast networks of bicycle trails and local tourism attractions.

It's always an exceptional opportunity to meet top state officials face to face and ask questions. Normally the governor participates, but during this very contentious election year, he was a no-show, possibly because his challenger made an appearance.

But besides informative meetings, there was plenty of time to sightsee and participate in activities. This time we decided to focus on hiking the 15 miles of impressive trails that weave from canyon to cliff-top. They come in all levels from easy and level to challenging and steep.

Wildflowers were at their May peak and deciduous woodlands lush with spring greens. (Also poison ivy, so learn to identify it before taking to the woods.)

My brother Jim, also a conference participant, and this writer kept taking turns exclaiming: "This is so reminiscent of hiking in France's Vosges." And a lot less expensive! During our 13 years exploring every imaginable trail through those Alsatian forests, scenery and trails were remarkably similar, including the sandstone formations, except for mountain views on the horizon.

On a similar meeting at Starved Rock several years ago, we'd opted to go white-water rafting along the Vermillion River. The heavily wooded series of remote isolation was a delight.

Ready to push off in our small two person rubber raft, we'd asked the Chicago Tribune's outdoor writer how he rated it challenge-wise: "About a four." And it's said to vary between class two and four.

But except for going through an eroded slot between two rock outcroppings and over a dam spillway, it was an easy two. It's a fun trip, one we thoroughly enjoyed. Much more relaxing than our challenging raft adventures and misadventures in Wyoming, Colorado, Alaska and Texas . . . some so challenging we almost decided to give up rafting!

Truth is there's almost too much to see and do, both at the resort and locally. The place has so much atmosphere, you'll want to save time for relaxing on site just enjoying its mood and ambience.

The same CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps) who built this property . . . as well as some world-famed western national park treasures . . . were also responsible for crafting its remarkable furniture. The dramatic pieces in the Great Room are of the quality found at Oregon's Mount Hood, Glacier and Yellowstone. Chairs, desks, tables and lamps all are unique.

Imagine it all in a cathedral-ceilinged room with massive log beams, multi-sided fireplace and walls of picture windows looking out across the terrace on to the woodland and river below.

The wife of one of the writers noted for his fishing ability staked out a window seat, curled up with a book and happily announced she had discovered Utopia and was not about to move. And it was easy to understand why. The place oozes atmosphere.

The registration area is equally dramatic. Two antique sleighs are suspended from the high ceiling, overlooking a water fountain. A bench with an elaborately carved bear at each end is sure to intrigue youngsters . . . it definitely intrigued us.AN interesting aside about life among CCC workers in the depression era of the 1930s: They came from families facing very hard times and were paid $1 a day. Of that, $25 was sent home each month and they were given $5 monthly for personal use.Food, clothes, board and medicine were all paid for by the CCC. Beer cost five cents and often the young men had money left over.

That programme trained many young unemployed men in trades and helped launch them into a better life. Many went on to prestigious careers as craftsmen. One wonders why such a worthy programme wasn't ever re-instituted.

About that unusual name: Starved Rock State Park is so-called because of legends involving a deadly standoff against Illiniwek Indians accused of killing Ottawa Chief Pontiac during a tribal council meeting. In revenge, they were surrounded atop a riverside cliff by Ottawa and Pottawatomi tribesmen in the 1760s — trapped, they died of starvation.

The French had been there even earlier, claiming the entire territory and building Fort St. Louis atop Starved Rock from 1682-83 because of its strategic location overlooking the river. They retreated in the early 1700s under pressure of Iroquois Indians in the French and Indian wars.

Our parents first took us to Starved Rock as youngsters. The minute the car stopped, 11-year-old Jim took off down those tempting, winding and often steep trails like a bolt of lightning before our parents were even out of the car.

Although very safe for savvy, careful hikers, it's a challenge for mischievous young explorers who don't pay attention to sheer cliffs and precipices and wander off trails ignoring guard rails.EACH year headlines tell sad tales of deadly mishaps by just such rambunctious youngsters. My panic-stricken parents spent hours searching for Jim, off having a wonderful romp, while they feared the worst.It left such a strong lifetime impression that until her death, my mother would teasingly comment, "I hope this isn't going to be another Starved Rock", when he took off hiking some remote mountain trail.

We've enjoyed staying at the lodge twice and on each occasion found our rooms very comfortable. Cabins are also available . . . both traditional "rustic" log ones and more modern units with fireplaces.

These do not have kitchens, but do offer a sense of solitude we especially enjoy. Later this year, time permitting, we'd like to settle into one of the rustic ones for several days and divide our time between hiking those great trails and lounging on the deck enjoying the views and outdoor cafe.

Everyone goes home impressed by the 24 pieces of chainsaw tree art on the grounds. When a tree there dies, it's not cut down but a talented carver turns it into a sort of living totem showing eagles, bear, birds, ducks, Abe Lincoln, Indians, owls and so on.

Wish they'd add similar pieces to their gift shop inventory because they are the sort of thing we especially like, and considered hiring their carver to do his magic on one of our giant evergreens broken off in a storm.

There's really no such thing as an off-season here. The resort is much in demand by repeat visitors and conferences. Gorgeous with wildflowers in spring, its popular summers, brilliant with autumn foliage and tranquilly snow-frosted in winter.

There are special spa treatments, an Olympic-size indoor pool with cathedral ceiling and so many recreation possibilities choosing among them is a challenge. You can rent boats, bicycles, canoes, attend little theatre productions and participate in all sorts of special weekends. There are senior discounts, especially generous mid-week up to 20 per cent. A tempting array of packages range from golf at $239 for a deluxe overnight room for two, two 18-hole rounds of golf with shared cart and two sleeves of golf balls and tees. These are offered April-October.

That's only a sample. Other packages range from $149 for two people to $269 and cover all sorts of special fringe benefits. To learn more about those available, see www.starvedrocklodge.com or call 1-880-868-7625 or 815-667-4211.Rates on its 72 lodge rooms range from $105 to $115, 14 "pioneer cabins" are $95 and eight deluxe ones $95 to $115 double.

q Next week: Surrounding attractions add to Starved Rock's appeal