Two for the price of one this week - an abominable appetiser followed by a real treat of a main course.

First off - and I really don't want to dwell on this revolting little starter for too long, I've only just got the taste out of my mouth - last weekend Hack had to endure what has to be one of the worst meals served up since the days of boarding school suppers.

It was damp and blustery at noon last Saturday. We turned up at the Speciality Inn (a first for Hack) uncertain if we were there for a late breakfast or early lunch. Not to worry, we had plenty of time to decide as the place was heaving and a wait was in order. A good sign, I thought.

A cashier told us to grab the next place available which we dutifully did - eventually. Finally settled at our table, we sat among the detritus of previous diners and watched, and waited some more while two waitresses cleared adjoining tables that were totally unoccupied.

After a hefty delay, a third member of Speciality's front-of-house team was good enough to apologise for his colleagues, clear our table, and offer up menus.

While my three companions sensibly went for the safety of pizza, Hack bravely plumped for the rabbit stew - not something that you see on too many menus. I now know why.

The stew consisted of three dried out bones and a mass of boiled potatoes swimming in an orange gloop, with more potatoes - instant mash this time, sitting in a pool of even more instant gravy.

Oh yes, there was something green and mushy on the side. The pizzas got an "OK" (amazing how easily eight year olds are satisfied) but the rabbit was actually offensive. I didn't bother - actually couldn't - clear my plate.

Nor did I bother to look at the bill so desperate were we to get out.

And still people were queuing up for a table. All Hack can say is this critic will not be going there again, and recommends you do the same.

On to more palatable matters.

It's 6 p.m. on Valentine's Day. We have tickets for a concert which kicks off at 8 p.m. and need some quick, pre-Tchaikovsky chow.

After mulling over the in-town options we decided we have just about enough time to take a leisurely drive along North Shore to Rustico in Flatts - another Hack first.

This being Valentine's Day and with no reservation made, we half expected to be turned away at the door.

Luckily this was not the case, and while there was no space inside, we were gently ushered to a table in Rustico's adjoining marquee.

Although a little chilly, a giant, New York-style brazier kept the room temperature at a just-about-bearable level for the remainder of the evening and two pre-dinner glasses of Chianti helped warm both body and atmosphere while we grazed through the menu.

Although essentially Italian, Rustico does spread its net pretty wide on the food front. There's a healthy selection of pastas partnering some more exotic, unusual ingredients while meat and fish lovers are certainly not neglected.

Scallops with pesto polenta and a lobster bisque got the nod over a selection of salads, carpaccio and other typical Italian starters for our choice of appetisers while a filet mignon in a mushroom Madera sauce and Tandoori Hake with cucumber raita and rice won the day for mains. Yes, I know, Tandoori Hake is hardly Italian but, as one of our duo of delightful waiters informed us, one of Rustico's chefs hails from India and obviously enjoys rustling up a taste of home now and again.

The lobster bisque arrived at room temperature, which, despite the brazier, was barely temperate. Its flavour hardly set the taste-buds on fire either. It was the one niggle of the night.

By contrast the scallops were divine. Fat yet firm and sweet, laced with a pesto sauce and decorated with a mound of deep fried spring onions. Imaginative, different and delicious.

Halfway through our first course the bisque was ditched and the scallops shared. Entrees were even more successful.

The steak was an impressively thick slab of meat, beautifully cooked, with a caramalised crust and pink, moist centre. The plate's star was complimented by a sticky sauce, crisp vegetables and a heart-shaped potato croquette that was as soft and buttery as the beef. Top marks.

But if the steak was good, the hake was a revelation.

Again beautifully cooked, the moist flakes of white fish were ever so delicately scented with Indian spices, making each bite a delight. Like the scallops, the dish was too good not to be shared.

Despite what our stomachs were telling us, we went for dessert anyway, and instantly regretted it.

Not that there was anything wrong with either the cheeseboard or ice cream, but the portions were so generous we felt guilty about leaving most of both.

Service at Rustico is exemplary.

It's a clich?, but the staff really did make what can be a very difficult job look easy. Efficient without being obtrusive, knowledgeable and informative, warm and friendly without being overly matey or gushingly servile. Top marks again.

A three course dinner for two, including three glasses of wine, coffees and grats came in at a little over $130 - not exactly a cheap, mid-week bite to eat but to be fair, Rustico does serve up above and beyond the cheap, mid-week.

Perhaps a February evening is not the best time to dine out in a marquee, but at least Hack now has yet another reason for looking forward to the warmer summer months.

I'm already anticipating the next visit, which is more than I can say for the rabbit stew.