subject of more than one recipe furore in Ann Landers columns.

Just why people make fun of this economical and tasty dish remains a mystery.

Admittedly, meat loaf doesn't contain pretentious ingredients, and requires no expertise to prepare. It won't win first prize for eye appeal, nor will it send gourmets into paroxysms of joy, but so what? At least meat loaf is honest, nutritious and delicious. For many, it is also a culinary umbilical cord which links them forever to mom's kitchen. In any case, you've never heard of a pop star called Beef Bourguignon, but there is a very successful one called Meatloaf! For those who have never made this down-home specialty, as well as those who want to improve on the old model, these recipes are for you: BASIC MEAT LOAF 11 lbs. top round, ground 1 cup bread crumbs? 1 onion (chopped) 1 cup green pepper (chopped) 1 cup celery (chopped) 1 egg (beaten) 1 tsp. seasoning salt 1 tsp. pepper 1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce 1 tbsp. soy sauce 1 tsp. thyme leaves 1 cup tomato sauce PRE-HEAT oven to 350 degrees F. Saute m onion, green paper and celery in butter. Set aside. In a large bowl beat egg. Add meat, bread crumbs and tomato sauce. Mix well. Add onions, green pepper, celery and seasonings. Place in a greased loaf pan and bake for 45 minutes. Serves 4. (The Bermuda Cook Book by Cecille Snaith-Simmons.) CHILI MEAT LOAF WITH SALSA 3 lbs. hamburger 3 large onions, ground 1 cup cracker crumbs 1 egg, lightly beaten 1 tbsp. chili powder 11 tsp. salt 1 tsp. pepper 2 cups canned tomatoes Chopped Salsa (recipe follows) PRE-HEAT oven to 350 degrees F. Combine all ingredients except tomatoes and Salsa. Work the mixture with your hands and form into a roll. Place in baking pan. Cover with tomatoes. Bake for 11 hours. Baste occasionally with pan juices. Serve with Salsa. Yield: 12 servings.

Salsa 1 (16-oz.) can tomatoes, chopped 1 (4-oz.) can chopped green chilis 1 medium onion, chopped 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. pepper 1 tsp. olive oil 1 tsp. sugar COMBINE ingredients and store in refrigerator until ready to use.

ITALIAN MEATLOAF 11 lbs. hamburger 1 cup fine dry bread crumbs soaked in 3 cup water 2 eggs, lightly beaten 1 8-oz. can tomato sauce 1 cup minced onion 2 tbsp. minced parsley 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. oregano 1 tsp. pepper PRE-HEAT oven to 350 degrees F. Mix ingredients together well. Pack into a greased 9 x 5-inch loaf pan to form shape, then unmould onto a baking pan with sides. Bake for 1 hour. Yield: 6 servings.

BEER MEAT LOAF 1 cup beer 1 egg, slightly beaten 1 cup soft bread crumbs 3 tsp. salt 1 tsp. pepper 1 tbsp. instant onions 1 tsp. thyme 1 lb. top round, ground 2 tbsp. margarine, melted 1 cup chili sauce ADD 1 cup beer to slightly beaten egg. Stir in crumbs, salt, pepper, onion and thyme. Add meat; mix thoroughly. Shape into one large patty and brown this on both sides in margarine in a skillet. Add remaining beer; cover and simmer for 20 minutes. Spread chili sauce on meat. Yield: 4 servings.

(International Cooking in Bermuda) MICROWAVED INDIVIDUAL CHILI MEATLOAVES 2 lbs. ground beef 1 tsp. season-all 1 tsp. ground black pepper 2 tsp. instant minced onion 1 tsp. nutmeg 1 egg 1 8-oz. can tomato sauce 1 tsp. season-all 1 tsp. ground black pepper 1 tsp. instant minced onion 1 tsp. chili powder LIGHTLY but thoroughly mix ground beef with next 5 ingredients. Shape into 6 individual meat loaves. Place in glass baking dish. Cook in microwave at full power setting 10 to 12 minutes, turning dish twice during cooking time. Drain off excess fat, if desired. Mix remaining ingredients. Spoon over meat loaves and cook 5 to 7 minutes longer, turning dish twice during cooking. Let stand 5 minutes before serving. Yield: 6 servings, 1 meatloaf each. (Spices of the World Cookbook by McCormick).

MEAT LOAF WITH MUSHROOMS 1 lb. ground beef 1 lb. ground pork 1 lb. ground veal 2 eggs, beaten 2 tbsp. instant minced onion 1 tsp. prepared horseradish 2 tsp. salt 1 tsp. dry mustard 1 tsp. season-all 1 cup soft bread crumbs 1 cup chopped celery 1 4-oz. can mushroom crowns 1 cup mushroom liquid or water COMBINE all ingredients until blended, being careful not to overmix. Shape into loaf in shallow, lightly greased baking pan, or put in 9 1 x 5 1 x 2 3 -inch lightly greased loaf pan. Bake in 375 degrees F. oven 11 hours. Yield: 6 to 8 servings. (Spices of the World Cookbook by McCormick.) MEAT LOAF BAKED IN SAUCE 2 lbs. freshly ground beef 1 medium-size potato, uncooked 2 eggs, lightly beaten 1 cup melted butter 1 tsp. prepared horseradish 2 tbsp. instant minced onion 1 tsp. garlic powder 1 tsp. black pepper 1 tbsp. season-all 3 tbsp. ketchup 1 cup milk or water Zesty tomato sauce (recipe follows) SCRUB uncooked potato and grate, peel and all. (You should have about 1 cup after grating). Mix all ingredients well, being careful not to over-mix. Shape into a loaf in a shallow, lightly greased baking pan. Spoon sauce (recipe follows) over loaf. Bake in 350 degree F. oven 1 hour and 15 minutes. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

Zesty Tomato Sauce 2 tbsp. beef flavour base 1 cup hot water 1 6-oz. can tomato paste 1 cup chili sauce 2 tsp. instant minced onion 1 tsp. ground oregano 1 tsp. ground marjoram Dash nutmeg 1 tsp. black pepper 1 tsp. sugar DISSOLVE beef flavour base in hot water. Add to remaining ingredients and mix well. You will find this makes a thick sauce. If you prefer a thinner sauce, add 1 to 1 cup additional water. (Spices of the World Cookbook by McCormick).

TINY'S MICROWAVE MEAT LOAF Power Levels: 100%, 70% and 80%. Total Cooking Time: 17 to 25 minutes.

2 eggs, beaten 11 oz. dry onion soup mix 1 cup cheese cracker crumbs 1 cup milk 1 cup ketchup 1 tsp. mustard 11 lbs. ground beef 1 lb. ground pork IN a large bowl, combine beaten eggs, soup mix and cracker crumbs. Heat milk in a 1 cup glass measure on 100% power for 1 minute. Stir milk into egg mixture. Add 3 tbsp. ketchup, mustard, and meat. Mix thoroughly. Press mixture into microwave-safe ring pan. Cover with wax paper; microwave on 70% power for 15 to 20 minutes. Spread remaining ketchup over top of loaf. Microwave on 80% power for 1 minute. Let stand for 5 minutes before serving. Yield: 4 to 6 servings. (Bright Ideas by Emily Bright).

CHEESE & HAM-STUFFED MEAT LOAF Oven Temp.: 350 degrees F. and 1 Microwave. Total Cooking Time: 25 to 30 minutes 11 lbs. lean, ground beef 1 cup finely chopped onion 1 cup bread crumbs 2 eggs, lightly beaten 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. pepper 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 2 tbsp. ketchup 2 large Cheddar or Gruyere cheese slices 3 slices smoked ham IN a large bowl, combine ground beef, onion, crumbs, eggs, salt, pepper, garlic and ketchup. Mix well. Turn this mixture out onto wax paper and shape it into an 8'' x 10'' rectangle. Place cheese slices on top of the meat, leaving a border on all sides. Top the cheese layer with slices of ham.

Carefully roll the meat up from the short end pressing ends together to form a firm seal. Place the roll, seam-side-down, in a 9'' x 5'' glass loaf pan. Cook on Micro-Convection (Combination) at 350 degrees F. and 1 Microwave for 25 to 30 minutes, until browned. Let stand 5 minutes before serving. Yield: 4 to 6 servings. (Bright Ideas by Emily Bright).