exploration of the meaning of food, family and the kitchen in his latest publication.

"The Frugal Gourmet Whole Family Cookbook'' -- which is available at the Bermuda Library -- offers insights into the impact new life-styles and family forms have had on food and meals.

Smith discusses common sense approaches to kitchen design, safety, equipment, bearing in mind the special needs of our rapidly aging population and also devotes an entire section to the delights of cooking with children.

The collection of recipes appearing in the Whole Family Cookbook are designed for the way people cook now, and the way we will be cooking well into the 21st Century.

Here is a sampling: MUSTARD GREENS SOUP This soup is a snap to make at the last minute, providing you have prepared the soup stock a few days before. It has a very clean flavour that everyone will enjoy.

2 quarts chicken stock 1 cup dry white wine 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1 cup peeled and thinly sliced yellow onion 1 1 bunches mustard greens, washed and chopped 2 eggs, beaten Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste In a 4-quart pot, bring the stock and wine to a simmer. Heat a large frying pan and add 2 tablespoons of the oil, the garlic and onion. Saute until onion just becomes tender and add to simmering stock. Heat frying pan again and add the remaining tablespoon of oil. Saute mustard greens a few minutes until they collapse. Add to pot. Cover and simmer 5 minutes or until the mustard greens and onion are tender. Pour the beaten eggs slowly over the top of the soup and gently stir in.

Serves 6 to 8 GARLIC HERB SOUP 2 1 quarts chicken stock 2 tablespoons fresh rosemary 1 tablespoon fresh oregano 1 cup chopped parsley 2 teaspoons fresh thyme 2 large heads (not cloves) garlic, cloves peeled 1 cup dry white wine 6 tablespoons butter 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 cup heavy cream or half-and-half 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives Salt/freshly ground black pepper to taste Garlic croutons for garnish Grated Parmesan cheese for garnish Place chicken stock, rosemary, oregano, parsley, and thyme in a 4-quart pot and bring to a boil. Simmer, covered, for 1 hour. Strain, discard cooked herbs and return stock to the pot. In a small saucepan, place all but 2 of the peeled garlic cloves (they will be used later). Add just enough water to cover the garlic and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes.

Puree cooked garlic and liquid until smooth. Add to the pot of stock along with wine and bring to a simmer.

Melt butter in a small frying pan and stir in the flour. Cook together to form a roux. Do not brown.

Whisk the roux into hot stock until smooth and thickened. Crush remaining garlic cloves into the pot. Simmer for 5 minutes. Add cream, chives, salt and pepper. Serve garnished with garlic croutons and grated Parmesan cheese.

Serves 10 LOW-SALT/LOW-FAT CHICKEN CRAIG This dish has a bright, "herby'' flavour that everyone in your clan will enjoy 1 3-pound chicken, cut into eighths 1 tablespoon fresh sage 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary 1 tablespoon fresh oregano 4 cloves garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 cup olive oil 1 cup dry white wine 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice Cut wings off the breast and pull all skin off chicken pieces. Save wings and skin to make stock at another time.

Chop sage, rosemary, oregano, garlic, and black pepper together to make an herb paste. Rub chicken well with the paste and place in a bowl. Add oil and toss so that everything is coated. It is best to marinate this, covered, in the refrigerator overnight, or at least 2 hours. Drain most of marinade before cooking.

Heat a large non-stick frying pan and saute chicken about 10 minutes per side.

(No additional oil will be needed because of the marinade. The chicken is done if the juices run clear when pierced with a knife.) Add wine and lemon juice to the hot pan of chicken and simmer a couple minutes to reduce liquid and form a sauce. Serve the chicken with the sauce spooned over the top.

Serves 3 to 4 NOTE: The remaining marinade can be refrigerated for several days and reused to prepare another chicken dish.

CRUSTLESS GREEN CHILI QUICHE This dish is perfect for the harried cook who does not always have time to make a crust. If you do not like green chilies, then substitute something else like garlic, zucchini, oregano, chunks of ake in a preheated 375 degree oven for about 20 minutes. Turn once to brown evenly.

BURNT CREAM FROM BLOOMINGDALE'S Straight from the kitchen's of Le Train Bleu -- the sixth floor restaurant in Bloomingdale's department store in New York -- comes this recipe for a super rich dessert which is simple to prepare. 11 egg yolks 6 ounces sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 quart heavy cream Additional sugar for caramelising Beat egg yolks, sugar and vanilla together in a mixing bowl. In a saucepan over low heat, bring cream to a gentle simmer (be careful not to let the cream boil over). Using a wire whisk, slowly whisk 1 cup of hot cream into egg yolk mixture. Whisk in remaining hot cream, stirring constantly.

Ladle into twelve 5-ounce ramekins in a roasting pan and fill pan with enough hot water to come halfway up the sides of ramekins. Bake in a preheated 300-degree oven for 60 minutes until firm. Remove custards from pan and allow to cool.

Well before serving, sprinkle additional sugar on top of custards and caramelise by placing them 10 eggs 1 cup butter, melted 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 1 pound large-curd cottage cheese 2 4-ounce cans diced green chilies Freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 pound mozzarella cheese, grated Whip eggs in a mixing bowl until fluffy. Whisk in melted butter, flour, baking powder, and salt. Stir in cottage cheese, chilies, black pepper, and half the mozzarella.

Place mixture in a greased 13x9-inch glass baking dish. Top with the remaining cheese. Bake in a preheated 400 degree oven for 15 minutes, then reduce temperature to 350 degrees and continue to bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the eggs are set and the top is lightly browned. Allow to cool a bit and cut into squares.

Serves 8 to 10 NOTE: You can also bake the egg mixture in oiled ramekins to make individual little casseroles for a first course. Watch these closely, though, as the quiche will cook more quickly in them than it will in the larger baking dish.

MUSHROOMS AND RICE Although the mushrooms are "crying'' for cream, half-and-half or milk may be substituted if you wish. It will still be easy and tasty. 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and chopped 3 pound mushrooms, sliced 4 cups chicken stock 2 cups rice 1 cup heavy cream OR half-and-half OR milk 1 egg, beaten 2 tablespoons chopped chives 3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Heat a large frying pan and add the oil, garlic, and onion. Saute a few minutes and add mushrooms. Saute until just tender. In a 4-quart pot, bring chicken stock to a boil and add mushroom mixture and rice. Return to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Cover and cook for 20 minutes. Stir in remaining ingredients off the burner. Serve immediately.

Serves 8 as a side dish PIPERADE This wonderful dish of vegetables and eggs is of Basque origin, the Basques being that nationality of people who live in the Pyrenees mountains between northern Spain and southern France. In this recipe, the flavours of both countries are brought together. 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons butter 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and sliced 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and sliced 1 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and sliced 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 3 cup coarsely chopped ripe tomato Salt to taste 8 eggs, beaten 4 scallions, chopped Freshly ground black pepper to taste Heat oil and butter in a large frying pan and saute garlic, onion, and bell pepper slices until just tender. Add parsley and tomato. Cook a few minutes more over medium-high heat to evaporate any excess liquid. Add salt to taste, beaten eggs, and scallions. Scramble everything together and top with plenty of freshly ground black pepper.

Serves 4 SEAFOOD IN SAFFRON CREAM This is one of the richest seafood dishes you will ever eat. It can be served on linguine or another pasta instead of rice. 1 pound Manila or butter clams 1 pound Penn Cove mussels, beards removed 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup raw converted rice (cook per instructions on the box) 1 pound large sea scallops 1 pound medium shrimp, peeled 1 cup all-purpose flour for dredging 2 tablespoons butter 1 cup heavy cream Pinch of good saffron Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste Chopped parsley for garnish Rinse clams, place in a small bowl and cover with cold water. Allow them to sit for 1 hour. Do the same with mussels. Drain clams and mussels. Heat a medium-sized pot and add 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add drained clams and 1 cup of the wine. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer about 8 minutes until clams open. Drain into a colander, reserving the broth or "nectar.'' Heat pot again and cook mussels as above, using remaining oil and wine, but only for about 5 minutes or until opened. (Discard mussels that have not opened.) Drain into a colander, reserving the nectar. Remove clam and mussel meat from their shells and set aside, covered. Discard the shells. Pour the two nectars through a strainer into one bowl and set aside.

Prepare the rice and set aside to keep warm.

Roll scallops and shrimp in flour and pat off any excess.

Melt butter in a large frying pan and saute scallops and shrimp for 1 minute.

Remove to cool. Add the reserved nectar to the frying pan along with cream and saffron. Bring to a simmer and cook, uncovered, to reduce and thicken slightly, about 5 minutes. Return all seafood to the pan and simmer 1 to 2 minutes more. Do not overcook the seafood! Salt and white pepper to taste.

Serve over rice with parsley garnish.

Serves 4 to 6 SALMON SALAD Be careful not to overcook the salmon steaks! 2 1 pounds fresh salmon steaks (thick steaks are best) Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill 1 cup thinly sliced celery 1 cup peeled and sliced white onion 1 cup canned beets, well drained and cut in 1 -inch dice (buy beets packed in glass with water, not pickled) 3 cup olive oil 3 tablespoons lemon juice 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar Lettuce leaves for serving 3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and sliced for garnish Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Season salmon with salt and pepper (easy on the salt). Place salmon in a 13x9-inch baking dish and cover with aluminium foil.

Bake 25 minutes.

Remove foil, cool, and debone and skin the salmon. Discard the bones and skin.

Tear salmon into large flakes, but do not shred it.

Combine cooked salmon, dill, celery, onion, and drained beets in a large bowl.

In another bowl, mix the oil, lemon juice, and vinegar. Add to salmon mixture and fold in gently. Try not to break up salmon too much. Serve in lettuce leaves with sliced egg garnish.

Serves 4 to 6 as a first course or salad course SPAGHETTI WITH PEANUT BUTTER SAUCE This simple dish features flavours from the Far East 1 cup creamy peanut butter 1 cup hot water 1 tablespoon light soy sauce 1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed 1 cup heavy cream 1 teaspoon sesame oil 2 shots Tabasco (optional) 3 pound spaghetti Fresh coriander for garnish Place peanut butter in a small glass and add hot water. Stir with a fork until smooth. Add remaining ingredients except pasta and coriander. Stir together until smooth and set aside.

Cook pasta and drain well. Place drained pasta in a bowl, stir reserved peanut butter mixture together again and add. Toss together and garnish with coriander.

Serves 4 to 6 as a pasta course SOLE AS A PIE This quick microwave meal has a bright Italian flavour. Remember not to overcook when using a microwave. Turn off the machine and let the food just sit in there until you are ready. 1 cup bread crumbs 1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano 1 tablespoon chopped parsley Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 pound fresh sole fillets 1 cup canned tomatoes 2 tablespoons olive oil Fresh lemon juice to taste Mix crumbs, oregano, parsley, and salt and pepper together. Dredge the fish in this mixture and place in an oiled glass pie plate. Top with remaining crumb mixture. Squash tomatoes with your hands and pour over the fish. Top with olive oil.

Cover with plastic wrap and poke a hole in the wrap. Microwave at 9 for 5 to 7 minutes. Top with a bit of fresh lemon juice before serving.

Serves 4 as a fish course FRIED FRUIT SALAD This is fine for parties and makes a great summer evening meal. 3 red Delicious apples 1 medium-sized pineapple 4 bananas 3 tablespoons butter 1 cup orange-flavoured liqueur 1 1 tablespoons fresh lime juice 2 cups fresh blueberries 1 cup fresh mint leaves Peel, core, and cut apples into wedges. (If you are not going to prepare this dish right away, hold apple wedges in cold water with a little lemon juice.

This will help prevent them from turning brown. Drain well before using.) Cut off top and bottom, and trim off outside skin of pineapple, cut in half lengthwise and then into quarters. Trim out tough core. Cut pineapple into 1-inch pieces.

Peel bananas and slice them into 3 -inch pieces.

Heat a large frying pan and add butter and apple wedges. Saute over high heat for about 3 minutes and add pineapple. Saute about 2 minutes and add bananas.

Saute over high heat and add orange-flavoured liqueur. Continue cooking and tossing fruit to burn off alcohol. Add remaining ingredients and toss together over the heat for about 1 minute until blueberries begin to colour the dish.

Serve immediately. Serves 8.