If it were not for loyal customers who insist on locally grown cassava for their Christmas pies, the tradition of cultivating cassava would certainly die. Cassava pie is a uniquely Bermudian dish essential to Christmas but the majority of locals now use frozen or dried cassava (farine) imported from West Africa and Brazil where it is plentiful and cheap. November is the month that cassava is harvested and processed for the Christmas market and an opportunity to rekindle interest in a plant that has played so important a role in local history and culture.Cassava was a survival food in the past and if it were to disappear from local agriculture Bermuda would not only lose a tradition but a resilient food that could become an important survival food again in the future.Very brief historyJill Collett wrote in her book “Bermuda: Her Plants and Gardens 1609 to 1850” that the earliest mention of cassava was recorded by Captain John Smith who in 1623 transported cassava in food supplies to early settlers in Virginia, and in 1639 a visiting Spaniard to Bermuda observed that each house had a small portion of land planted in ‘yucca’ to make cassava flour. A notice in an 1826 Royal Gazette newspaper placed by John Cox inviting a contract to supply 10,000 pounds of cassava at 10 shillings per 100 pounds suggests a vibrant cassava trade in those days. Farming declined dramatically in the 20th century and along with it the demise of cassava farming. Today only three farmers continue to grow and process it commercially.Remaining cassava farmersGabre Swan is one of three farmers who still grow cassava. He has been cultivating and processing it for over 30 years. He said he started when elder farmer Bishop Douglas came to visit him and brought some cassava sticks. “He told me to take them and plant them and I have been growing them ever since,” said Mr Swan who added that it is hard work but he does it to continue the tradition. When he started growing cassava he produced 1,500 pounds a year it is now reduced to around 600 pounds a year for his customer base.Tom Wadson, who has been growing cassava for 25 years, produces 1,000 pounds a year and says he grows it because Wadsons like to grow things Bermudian. Both Mr Wadson and Mr Swan say people like the fine grind of their product and have had the same loyal customers for years. Mr Swan sells from home and at the City Market and Mr Wadson from his farm store. Elder farmer Percy Powell and his son Mike, who supply supermarkets, have grown cassava for 15 years producing 5,000 pounds a year but production is now reduced to 1,500 pounds a year.CultureCassava is a heat and drought tolerant crop that can be grown in marginal soils. Mr Swan says the best soil for growing cassava is sandy soil because it allows cassava roots to grow straight making them easier to peel. He said clay soil is also good but can cause the roots to bend if hard pockets are encountered. He rotates his plantings to take advantage of organic fertiliser residues from previous crops. Not much fertiliser is needed but poultry manure, when required, is applied three months after planting.Time to plant and harvestJanuary to March is the time to plant cassava so farmers leave a portion of their crop un-harvested from which to take cuttings they call “sticks”. They are planted four inches deep and three to six feet apart. In August, or before hurricanes, farmers prune stems to minimise wind damage. To harvest, the stems are removed first then the roots dug carefully to avoid breakage. Mr Swan says he gets roots that weigh between 15 and 50 pounds each. The plants can be left in the ground an extra year but beyond that they tend to become woody.ProcessingBitter cassava, Manihot esculenta, is the only type of cassava grown locally. Manicot dulcis is the sweet type. Both contain cyanogens but the bitter type has much higher amounts than the sweet type.To be eaten the toxins must be removed. Once the cassava root is harvested soil is removed and it is soaked in water overnight. They can be left for a second day but not longer as they will begin to ferment. The next day the roots are peeled, grated, and the liquid thoroughly squeezed out. Mr Swan runs his cassava through a motorised grater twice and removes any clumps; it is then bagged and chilled until sold. If improperly prepared serious illnesses can result. To view five short video clips of Gabre Swan and his wife Debbie processing cassava go to YouTube and type “Processing Cassava in Bermuda”.Bermuda Seed SaversseminarA few cassava bushes strategically planted out of the wind can be an attractive addition to home gardens for Christmas pie and cooking experiments. For first hand information about cassava the public are invited to a free seminar and demonstration on November 10 at 2pm titled “How to Prepare Cassava for Eating and for Planting” at the Bermuda Botanical Gardens Visitors Centre conducted by farmer Gabre Swan and the Curator of the Botanical Gardens, Neville Richardson. The event is organised by Bermuda Seed Savers, a group of gardeners interested in preserving local food plants and seeds. If participants have local seeds and cassava sticks they are invited to bring them to share.To register: e-mail bdaseedsavers@gmail.com.