Rock fever can prompt some to head for less cramped places but for Bermudian Paulina Brooks and the crew of tall ship Picton Castle seeking out remote islands is a way of life.

The ship has visited 53 different of the world's remotest spots during the year and a half trip before arriving in Bermuda last week.

And Paulina, manager of Front Street boutique Cecile's, has been on the month-long Caribbean leg of the 36,000-mile trip and has loved every minute.

She said: "It's put my head in an entirely different space. You learn so much and you are back in touch with nature. It's a really special experience."

Learning the ropes in a new job is crucial but more so on a tall ship in which relies on them.

Climbing the rigging while the boat was setting sail was special for Paulina.

"I loved be aloft. It was really exhilarating."

She has been guided by Captain Daniel Moreland who she said can spot when the ship's going off course simply by standing on the deck and looking at the sky.

For him island hopping isn't a working holiday but a way of life. The Picton Castle, which started as an English trawler before being pressed into service as a minesweeper in World War Two, is his home.

He said: "My first trip was in the 1970s."

He now has friends in remote spots the world over. The Pacific Island of Vanuatu was a highlight for him this time around.

"We made good friends with the chief and had a big dance around the bonfire with music and food which they call lap-lap. It was pork, fish, sweet potatoes and yams."

He has been coming to Bermuda for dozens of years and was glad to stop off here again, despite the rough weather, as the ship heads home to Canada.

He said: "It's a good place to have an island."

Jim Salman, 45, from New Hampshire, USA, has been with the ship since it set off in November 2000.

In the tiny Pitcairn island in the south Pacific he met the island's 40 or so inhabitants, all descendants of the Bounty mutineers. "The people took us into their homes."

Palmerstone island wasn't much bigger but it was equally hospitable.

"There are about 50 inhabitants, they all have the same last name, all descendants of William Marsters who brought over three wives," he said.

Islanders are just as pleased to see the ship as the crew are to see dry land as visitors are few and far between in islands which don't have an airport or tourism.

The crew buy carved goods and wood to sell in Canada and bring school books provided by charity WorldWise.

Executive director Kate Menser said locals are very grateful.

"In Vanuatu they have no electricity or running water when we turned up with the books the teacher got a bit teary.

"There are people who own one outfit of clothes, they have no shoes. To own a book is quite meaningful."

But she hasn't been all plain sailing.

"I get sea sick. I thought I would get over it. I get sick for three to five days outside every port and then after that I never feel 100 percent well. My job is working with the computer so basically I can't do my job."

Paulina is hoping to get Bermudian schoolchildren to donate books for the next voyage in June 2003 and she is already hoping to take part.

She said: "We have so much fun, it's nice to give something back."

On this journey she has visited Grenada, Carriacou, Martinique and the Virgin Islands but like the rest of the 38 sail trainees has had to work her passage doing two four-hour shifts.

The day begins at 5.40 a.m. with the deck filling with crew busy making sails and ropes while others toil at painting, sanding, oiling and varnishing.

Those off duty use the time to catch up on sleep, patch clothes or do woodwork. "As soon as it gets dark you go to sleep," said Paulina.

Distilled seawater is used for drinking and for cold showers and the living quarters, known as the bat cave, make the inside of a sardine tin look spacious.

But people rub along together happily said Pauline with conflicts being resolved quickly.

The crew are a mix of ages and sexes although young rich kids with the time and money to spare form the majority.

As an islander Pauline said she can spot island people from outsiders everywhere she goes.

And Captain Moreland adds: "I love islands and was brought up on one. Island people are different. They are more peaceful and resolve conflict better, if in an idiosyncratic way."