COLE'S COOKING A TO Z by Annette Gooch

Flavourful food, well prepared and simply presented, is the hallmark of a Sicilian-style menu built around pan-fried salt cod (baccala) with a pungent green olive sauce.

Aside from the fish, which is cooked at the last minute, the meal can be prepared ahead of time. Time-wise, the most flexible dish of all, and the one with the greatest gusto, is the colourful, zesty sauce to accompany the fish.

It does need at least 12 hours' melding time, but requires no cooking and can be assembled as much as five days in advance.

A first course of garlicky potato soup can be prepared earlier in the day and reheated for serving. The vegetable side dish also can be assembled ahead of time and then baked shortly before dinner.

With focaccia and cookies from an Italian bakery and fresh fruit from the produce market, the only dish remaining, and the most time-sensitive item on the menu, is the salt cod.

After soaking for 24 hours and marinating for nearly an hour, the fish is breaded and pan-fried at the last minute before being rushed to the table as the centerpiece of this memorable dinner.

SUCCESS TIPS

Dried salt cod, available in plastic bags or small wooden boxes, is available at some larger supermarkets, many fish markets and most delicatessens specializing in Mediterranean foods.

Store salt cod in the refrigerator, where it will keep well for at least three months, depending on temperature and humidity levels inside the refrigerator.

After the cod has been soaked (rehydrated), it should be used within 24 hours or else drained, placed in a freezerproof container, and placed in the freezer, where it will keep for up to two months. When serving salt cod, be alert to the possibility of small bones.

POTATO-GARLIC SOUP

Serve this creamy starter soup very hot, with warm focaccia or breadsticks.

5 cups defatted chicken broth

1 cup peeled and diced raw potato

3 tablespoons olive oil

¼ cup sliced garlic

½ cup minced onion

½ cup half-and-half or whole milk

½ cup milk

½ teaspoon hot red-pepper flakes

2 ounces fontina cheese, grated

Coarse salt

1. Combine broth and potato in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce heat to maintain a simmer and cook ten minutes.

2. While broth is simmering, heat olive oil in a large saucepan over moderately low heat. Add garlic and onion, and sauté gently for ten minutes; do not let garlic and onion brown. Add broth and potato and simmer 20 minutes, covered. Transfer mixture to a blender in batches along with half-and-half, milk and red-pepper flakes. Blend until smooth.

NOTE: If desired, soup can be prepared up to this point and refrigerated for several hours before reheating it for serving.

3. Pour mixture into a clean saucepan. Add two tablespoons of the fontina and gently reheat, stirring until cheese melts and mixture is almost boiling. Add salt to taste. Serve immediately, garnishing each portion with some of the remaining fontina.

Serves four.

SICILIAN PAN-FRIED SALT COD WITH GREEN OLIVE SAUCE

Soaking salt cod (baccala in Italian) rids it of excess salt and restores its firm, meaty texture. Marinated in lemon juice and seasonings, the fish is ready to be battered, breaded and quickly pan-fried. Both visually and in terms of flavour, the Green Olive Sauce is the ideal partner for the piping hot fish.

1 ½ pounds boneless salt cod

2 cups milk

¼ cup olive oil

¼ cup lemon juice

2 tablespoons minced parsley

½ onion, minced

½ teaspoon hot red-pepper flakes

Flour, for dredging

¼ cup dry white wine

2 eggs

2 cups soft bread crumbs

Cooking oil (grapeseed, corn or peanut), as needed for pan-frying

Green Olive Sauce (recipe below)

1. Put salt cod in a baking dish and cover with cold water. Refrigerate 24 hours, changing the water three times. On the final change, add the milk to the water.

2. Drain salt cod and pat dry. Cut into 12 pieces. In a large bowl, combine olive oil, lemon juice, parsley, onion and red-pepper flakes. Add fish pieces to the bowl and marinate 45 minutes in the refrigerator.

3. Remove fish from refrigerator; place on a wire rack to drain. Put flour on a plate or a sheet of waxed paper. Combine wine and egg in a small bowl; whisk to blend.

Have bread crumbs ready on a plate. Dredge each piece of fish lightly in flour. Next, dip fish in egg mixture, letting excess drip off, and then coat with bread crumbs. Transfer breaded fish to a platter or baking sheet.

4. Pour about one inch of oil into a large skillet over moderately high heat. When oil is hot, add pieces of fish to the skillet, working in batches to avoid crowding, and fry pieces on both sides until nicely browned, about three to four minutes on each side.

Drain on paper towels and arrange on a warm serving platter; repeat with remaining fish, adding more oil if necessary. Spoon Green Olive Sauce over fish and serve immediately.

Serves four.

GREEN OLIVE SAUCE

1 ½ cups green pimiento-stuffed olives

⅔ cup olive oil

½ cup minced parsley

1 sweet red bell pepper, seeded, with ribs removed, and minced

1 ½ ounces anchovy fillets, drained and mashed with a fork

¼ cup capers

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano

1 teaspoon black pepper

Chop olives coarsely. Put in a ceramic, stainless steel or glass bowl along with olive oil, parsley, bell pepper, anchovies, capers, garlic, oregano and black pepper. Stir to blend. Cover and refrigerate for at least 12 hours or up to one week. Serve at room temperature.

Makes about three cups.

For additional culinary information and recipes from Cole's Cooking A to Z, e-mail AtoZ[AT]culinarysocietyofamerica.com.