COLE'S COOKING A TO Z–by Annette Gooch

Weeks or months before asparagus tips break through the soil in other parts of the country, the first flush of the West Coast crop has already made the cut. Despite the abundance of imported asparagus almost year-round, what gets a cook's attention is the arrival of the domestic crop grown in the fields of California, Washington, Michigan, Massachusetts, New Jersey or other states.

Close on the heels of a long, hard winter, the sight of firm green spears promises the arrival, sooner or later, of warmer weather and more hours of daylight.

At home, there are other joys to savour: the fresh, grassy aroma; the sweet, clean taste; and the pleasure of sharing a plateful, stalk by stalk, without benefit of forks. Good asparagus is rarely cheap. The price of those beautiful bundles at the supermarket or local farmers' market reflects the workings of supply and demand, unpredictable weather, and the expense of hand-harvesting and rushing the highly perishable crop to market.

But spring for it, at least once, between February and June. The satisfaction of eating tender spears grown in season and in the USA justifies the cost. Shop for spears with fresh-looking, unseparated tips and smooth stalks with bright green colour. The stalks should be pliable nearly as far as the green colour extends. Avoid spears with mushy or mouldy tips or ribbed stalks.

When preparing asparagus, rinse briefly under running water; avoid soaking it. Show off the first fresh spears of the season in these tempting crepes.

To save time, try ready-to-use crepes, which are available in many areas at larger supermarkets, speciality food shops or natural food stores. Serve two crepes to each diner.

ASPARAGUS-MUSHROOM CREPES

6 tablespoons butter

3 cups sliced asparagus (cut into diagonal ¾-inch lengths)

4 green onions, thinly sliced

½ pound fresh mushrooms, cleaned and sliced

1 teaspoon each lemon juice and salt

¼ teaspoon dried tarragon

Dash white pepper

2 cups grated Gruyere or Swiss cheese

12 crepes (6 or 7 inches in diameter), store-bought or homemade (see recipe below)

3 tablespoons flour

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Dash cayenne pepper

1 ½ cups half-and-half

¼ cup dry white wine

? cup grated Parmesan cheese

1. To prepare filling, in a large frying pan over medium-high heat, melt three tablespoons of the butter.

Add and stir asparagus, green onions and mushrooms until mushrooms brown lightly and any liquid has evaporated.

Mix in lemon juice, ½ teaspoon of the salt, and the tarragon and white pepper. Remove from heat and mix in ½ cup of the Gruyere cheese.

2. To fill crepes, arrange them on large tray or clean work surface. Distribute filling equally among the crepes, spooning the filling along one edge of each crepe.

Neatly roll up crepes and arrange side by side in a shallow, buttered nine-by-13-inch baking dish.

3. To prepare a white sauce, melt remaining three tablespoons butter in a two-quart saucepan; stir in flour and cook, stirring, until mixture is bubbly.

Add remaining ½ teaspoon salt, mustard and cayenne. Remove from heat and gradually blend in half-and-half and then the wine.

Return to heat and cook, stirring or whisking constantly, until thick. Add ½ cup more Gruyere cheese, stirring until melted.

4. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Pour white sauce over crepes. Sprinkle evenly with remaining Gruyere cheese and the Parmesan cheese.

5. Bake crepes, uncovered, until they are heated through and lightly browned (30 to 35 minutes).

Serves six.

BASIC CREPES

This recipe makes enough batter for 16 to 20 crepes. Refrigerate any leftover batter and use it within a day or two.

Any leftover crepes can be placed in an airtight container and stored in the freezer for up to two months. Thaw frozen crepes overnight in the refrigerator before reheating them.

1 cup flour

¾ cup water

? cup milk

3 eggs

2 tablespoons mild-flavoured vegetable oil

¼ teaspoon salt

1. In blender or food processor, combine all ingredients. Blend or process until batter is smooth.

2. Cover and refrigerate batter for at least one hour or up to 48 hours. Allow chilled batter to warm slightly at room temperature; stir well before using.

3. Heat a six-inch crepe pan over medium-high heat; brush surface lightly with butter.

Using a small ladle or cup measure, slowly pour small amount of batter into hot pan, tilting and swirling it as you pour, to apply a thin layer to bottom of the pan.

4. Turn crepe, using a small spatula, when surface looks dry and underside is golden brown. Cook other side just until lightly browned.

Turn out of pan. Repeat with remaining batter, stacking crepes as they are completed.

Makes approximately 16 to 20

For additional culinary information and recipes from Cole's Cooking A to Z, e-mail AtoZ@culinarysocietyofamerica.com