While French cooking in restaurants has the reputation of being rich with cream, butter and impossibly complicated, in most home kitchens and neighbourhood bistros one is more apt to find simple soups or stews simmering.

A classic French stew of lamb and white beans is a perfect example. Usually made with lamb shanks or shoulder meat and cooked dry beans, the stew lends itself to each cook's interpretation.

It can be made in stages, if desired, and tastes better each time it's reheated.

LAMB AND WHITE BEAN STEW Ask the butcher to cut the lamb shanks crosswise into three or four sections.

1 lb. dried great Northern beans 4 lamb shanks (3-4 lbs.), cut crosswise into 2-inch pieces Salt 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup onion, chopped 2 carrots, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced cup dry red wine 14 diced tomatoes 14 ounces chicken broth teaspoon pepper 2 bay leaves cup chopped fresh parsley 1 teaspoon dried thyme In large saucepan, soak beans in cold water to cover overnight. Or for quick-soak method, cover beans with water, bring to a boil, cover and boil 2 minutes, then set aside, off the heat, for 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 400. Place shanks, fat side down, in Dutch oven or heavy ovenproof pan. Cover and place in oven for 1 hour.

While lamb is roasting, place beans and soaking water over medium heat. Add more water, if needed, to cover beans by at least 1 inch. Add 1 teaspoon salt and boil.

Reduce heat, cover and simmer 30-40 minutes or until beans are just tender but not mushy. Drain and set aside.

Remove lamb shanks from oven and transfer shanks to another container. Drain off fat. Place Dutch oven over medium heat on top of stove and add olive oil.

When oil is hot, add onion, carrots and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened but not brown, 5-10 minutes. Turn heat to high and add wine to pan. Stir to loosen browned bits on bottom of pan. Let wine reduce by about half, add tomatoes, chicken broth, teaspoon salt, the pepper, bay leaves, parsley and thyme.

Bring mixture to a boil, then stir in drained beans. Place lamb shanks on top.

Return to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low, cover and cook until lamb is tender, 45-60 minutes.

Check moisture level occasionally, adding more water or broth if mixture seems dry. If mixture is too soupy at end of cooking time, cook uncovered for a few minutes, or mash some of the beans to thicken. There should be some broth remaining.

Taste and add additional salt if needed. Serve in deep plates or shallow soup bowls. Makes about 6 servings.