usual way alcohol features in entertaining, but when it is included in the meal itself, the results are not only delightful but devoid of unpleasant side effects -- or run-ins with the law! In wine cookery, it is not the wine you taste, but the goodness of the food which the wine brings out.

Wine balances food flavours and creates taste harmonies pleasing to the palace. It imparts piquancy to bland foods; tenderises meats if used as a marinade; and even provides certain vitamins and other food values.

As the following recipes illustrate, liquor of all sorts can add an unusual or intriguing dimension to an otherwise ordinary dish. Any of them will certainly impress those lucky enough to share your table.

*** This is a delightful breakfast dish. Individual ramekins are an attractive way to serve it. Otherwise, use an ordinary casserole.

EMPEROR EGGS Eggs Onion, chopped Butter Grated Parmesan cheese Tomato sauce 3 slices bacon 1 onion, chopped 2 tbsp. finely chopped, raw carrots 1 No. 2 can tomatoes Bay leaf, crumbled Pinch EACH thyme, marjoram, basil, summer savory 4 peppercorns, slightly bruised 1 clove garlic 1 tsp. sugar 1 tbsp. flour 1 cup consomme 2 oz. sherry 1 tbsp. butter SAUTE m 1 tsp. of chopped onion (per person) in butter until tender, but not brown. Line each ramekin with chopped onion, then break an egg over the onion, and sprinkle with 1 tsp. of grated Parmesan cheese. Put ramekins into a fairly hot oven (400 degrees F.) and let eggs cook until they are firm but not hard.

Remove from oven, pour tomato sauce over the top, sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve.

To make tomato sauce: Chop 3 slices of bacon and put them in a saucepan. When they are browned but not crisp, add onion and carrots. When onion is tender but not brown, add canned tomatoes, bay leaf, herbs, peppercorns, garlic, sugar, flour mixed with consomme m, and sherry. Simmer about 45 minutes, then strain the sauce into another saucepan, rubbing vegetables through the sieve.

Heat, add butter. Now it is ready for use.

*** SAUERBRATEN 4 lb. rump or round of beef (1 piece) 21 cups dry red wine 11 cups tarragon vinegar 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. black peppercorns 1 tsp. thyme 1 tsp. mace 1 tsp. sage 1 tsp. allspice 1 tsp. dry mustard 3 bay leaves 12 whole cloves 2 large onions 1 carrot 6 sprigs celery tops 3 tbsp. bacon fat 2 tbsp. flour 5 gingersnaps 1 cup sour cream 2 tbsp. Madeira PUT a 4-lb. rump or round of beef (in one piece) in a large enamel, earthenware, or stainless steel bowl. Mix together 21 cups of dry American red wine, 11 cups of tarragon vinegar, 1 tsp. of salt, 1 tsp. of black peppercorns, 1 tsp. each of thyme and mace, 1 tsp. of sage, 1 tsp. of all spice, 1 tsp. of dry mustard, 3 bay leaves, 12 whole cloves, 2 large onions, peeled and sliced, 1 large carrot, sliced, and 6 sprigs celery tops. Pour this mixture over the meat. Cover with doubled cheesecloth, and let marinate for 4 days, turning the meat twice each day in the marinade.

Remove meat from marinade. Melt 3 tbsp. of bacon drippings in a heavy frying pan or skillet, add meat and brown on all sides. Transfer meat to a heavy kettle or large Dutch oven.

Blend about 2 tbsp. of flour with the bacon drippings and gradually pour in the marinade. Add 5 crushed gingersnaps and cook until thickened. Add this sauce to the meat, cover, and simmer slowly over a low flame until the meat is tender -- about 3 hours. If necessary, add a little more red wine.

When meat is cooked, remove to a hot platter and slice.

*** CHICKEN SAUTEED IN MIXED LIQUORS 2 tender young chickens, 21 lbs. each Salt and pepper to taste 4 oz. butter 1 little green onion, chopped 1 clove garlic, minced 1 cup sliced fresh mushrooms 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup white port 2 oz. Kirsch 2 oz. brandy 2 egg yolks 1 cup rich cream DISJOINT chickens, season with salt and pepper to taste. Melt 4 oz. of butter in a skillet, add onion (bulb and tops) and garlic. When butter is hot (not brown), add chicken pieces. Cook over a low heat about 20 minutes, then add mushrooms. Continue to cook until the chicken becomes a light golden brown -- about 10 minutes more. Add to chicken and mushrooms the various liquors. Bring to a boil, ignite the liquors and shake skillet until fire dies out. Continue cooking until chicken is tender -- about 30 minutes more. When chicken is done, remove the pieces to a hot plate.

Liquor in skillet should be reduced to about half by the time the chicken is done. Combine beaten egg yolks with cream and add to juices in the skillet.

Cook until the sauce thickens (but do not allow it to boil), stirring constantly. When sauce is thickened, pour over chicken and serve.

*** CURRIED LAMB CHOPS 6 lamb chops 2 tbsp. bacon fat 1 small onion, sliced 1 small apple, cored and sliced 1 tbsp. flour 1 tbsp. curry powder 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. sugar 1 tsp. dry mustard 1 cup water 1 cup dry red wine Cooked rice Lemon slices TRIM chops, removing all fat and gristle. Heat 2 tsp. of bacon drippings in a skillet, brown chops. Remove chops from skillet. In the same fat fry onion and apple until slightly browned. Add flour, curry powder, salt, sugar, dry mustard, water, and red wine. Mix well. Return chops to pan and simmer until they are tender.

To serve: On a platter, make a border of cooked rice with chops in centre.

Garnish with lemon slices.

*** PORK CHOPS IN SOUR CREAM AND MADEIRA 4 loin pork chops 3 tbsp. Madeira 1 cup sour cream Salt and pepper to taste PAN broil chops in usual way until tender and a nice brown. Remove from pan for a moment. Pour off any excess fat from pan. Add Madeira and sour cream to pan, stirring well into the gravy, and scraping the pan to loosen any particles of meat that may adhere. Return chops to pan, cook another five or ten minutes, basting frequently.

*** Pollo Mole is one of the festival dishes in Mexico, playing somewhat the same role as that of turkey in the United States. It utilises a delightful flavouring agent -- one that may seem odd to Americans -- bitter chocolate.

Naturally, this is a one-dish meal, and it will delight your guests, and yourself.

POLLO MOLE (Mexican Chicken) 1 large chicken, cut into pieces Salt 2 bay leaves Water 4 tbsp. olive oil 2 cloves garlic, crushed and chopped 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 1 green pepper, seeded and chopped 2 large tomatoes, seeded and chopped 3 slices canned pimientos, chopped 2 tbsp. chili powder 21 cups chicken stock 1 cup ground almonds 1 cup ground peanuts 1 tsp. anise seed 1 cup seeded raisins Grated rind 1 orange 1 tsp. powdered cinnamon 2 pinches nutmeg 2 pinches powdered cloves Black pepper Dash hot pepper sauce 2 squares bitter chocolate 1 cup light rum PLACE large chicken, cut into serving pieces, into a pot with leaves and enough slightly salted water to cover. Cook until almost tender, then remove the chicken pieces and drain through a colander. Reserve the stock.

Put olive oil in a deep, heavy skillet, add garlic. When oil is hot, brown chicken pieces on all sides, then remove from skillet, set aside and keep warm.

To the oil in the skillet add onion, green pepper, tomatoes and pimentos. When vegetables are tender, add chili powder. Blend well so there are no lumps.

Add to skillet chicken stock (filling out, if necessary, with canned chicken broth), nuts, anise seed, raisins, grated orange rind, all spices, and hot pepper sauce. Simmer about 30 minutes, stirring often.

Now return chicken to the skillet with the sauce. Shave chocolate over top.

Cover and let whole simmer about 30 minutes more. Five minutes before serving, add light rum, stir in, re-heat, and serve. The mole sauce should be rich and thick.

*** LIVER AND BACON CREOLE 6 thin slices calves' liver Flour Salt and pepper to taste 2 tbsp. bacon fat 1 cup onion rings, thinly sliced 1 cup green pepper, thinly sliced 1 cup fresh mushrooms, thinly sliced 1 cup canned tomatoes 1 clove garlic, crushed 1 bay leaf Pinch thyme Pinch marjoram 1 tbsp. chopped parsley 10 peppercorns, slightly bruised 1 tsp. dry mustard Salt to taste Dash paprika 1 cup dry white wine 3 tbsp. Madeira COMBINE flour, salt and pepper. Dust liver with it. Melt bacon drippings in a skillet, brown liver on both sides. Separate onions rings, add to skillet along with green pepper, mushrooms, canned tomatoes, garlic, bay leaf, herbs, parsley, peppercorns, dry mustard, salt and paprika. Add wine. Cover skillet tightly, and bake in a 350 F.-degree oven for 1 hour. Before serving, add Madeira.

*** This is not a simple dish to prepare. It really requires work, but the final result is worth all the time and trouble spent on it.

PAELLA (Chicken and Shellfish Cooked with Rice) 2 tender broiler chickens 2 dozen cherrystone clams, well scrubbed, in shells 2 dozen fresh shrimp, cleaned 1 qt. chicken broth 1 cup pure olive oil 3 medium-sized onions, chopped 2 cups long-grain rice, well rinsed 12 thin slices Italian or Spanish sausage 3 cloves garlic 1 level tsp. saffron 2 oz. dry sherry Salt and pepper to taste Strips canned pimento Grated Parmesan cheese DISJOINT chicken. Have ready cherrystone clams, in their shells, and cleaned shrimp. Also, have chicken broth on stove, just at boiling point.

Put olive oil in a good-sized casserole, or not too deep iron pot. When hot add onions, then chicken. Saute m until chicken pieces are golden brown on all sides. Add rice. When it begins to dry out a little, add 1 cup of chicken broth. When this is absorbed, add another. Continue to simmer until the chicken and rice are nearly tender. (When the rice is thoroughly cooked, each grain should be separate; it should not be a mushy mess).

When chicken and rice are tender, add clams, shrimp (in their jackets) and about a dozen thin slices of Italian or Spanish sausage. In a mortar (or heavy bowl) combine garlic and saffron. Add about 6 oz. of the chicken broth. Go to work with a pestle (or a muddler), and when the broth is thoroughly impregnated with both the colour and flavour of the garlic and saffron, strain it into the casserole. Add sherry, and salt and pepper to taste.

Over the top of the contents of the casserole lay a few strips of canned pimento, and sprinkle on a film of grated Parmesan cheese. Put casserole under the broiler for about 5 minutes. Serve from the casserole.

*** This wonderful omelette, topped with a magnificent sauce, is perfect for luncheons or late supper parties. The use of chocolate is typically Mexican.

MEXICAN OMELETTE SUPREME Eggs (2 per person) 4 strips bacon, chopped 2 green peppers, chopped 2 onions, chopped 6 bay leaves 2 tbsp. chili powder 1 cup unsweetened chocolate Pinch salt Dash hot pepper sauce 1 tsp. peppercorns 1 tsp. sage 1 cup dry red wine 2 cups sliced, fresh mushrooms Cornstarch 1 tbsp. rich cream per egg Butter Almond paste GRIND chocolate and make into a paste. Brown chopped bacon, green peppers, onions and bay leaves in a saucepan. Add chili powder, unsweetened chocolate, salt, hot pepper sauce, peppercorns, sage, and red wine (claret type). When mixture comes to a boil stir for 15 minutes. Add enough cornstarch to bring mixture to the consistency of thin gruel. Add mushrooms and allow sauce to simmer for 10 minutes.

In the meantime, prepare an omelet, allowing 2 strictly fresh eggs per person.

Separate eggs and beat whites separately, using 1 tbsp. of heavy sweet cream per egg. Then fold in the beaten yolks. Pour mixture into a frying pan containing enough butter to cover the entire bottom and sides of the pan, let it raise on top of the stove, then place in a slow oven (300 degrees F.) for 15 minutes. Finally, pour the sauce over the omelet, and serve with strips of dry toast spread with almond paste. Sauce should serve four people.

*** PLANTATION CHICKEN SHORTCAKE Sliced breasts cold chicken Slices baked ham Cornbread squares 1 lb. mushrooms 3 tbsp. butter 1 cup cream 2 tbsp. sherry 1 tbsp. flour Salt, white pepper to taste Grated parmesan cheese To make the mushroom sauce: Clean mushrooms and lightly brown them in a saucepan with 2 tbsp. of the butter. Add cream and sherry, cook 6 to 8 minutes. Thicken with a roux (about a tbsp. of butter mixed with a tbsp. of flour), season with 1 tsp. of salt and a little white pepper.

To assemble dish: Cut 3-inch squares of cornbread, split and butter them.

Place pieces in a large, shallow baking dish, laying on top of each piece a thick slice of baked ham. Over the ham lay a slice of cold chicken (preferably white meat). Pour mushroom sauce over the combination, sprinkle grated Parmesan cheese over the top, and put dish under the broiler and let it cook until it is hot and bubbly.

*** PINEAPPLE SURPRISE 1 large ripe pineapple 3 fresh peaches 11 cups champagne 1 cup sugar 11 tsp. Fraisette or kirsch CUT a ripe pineapple in half lengthwise, leaving the leaves on. Scoop out the flesh, leaving a 1 -inch shell, and being careful not to puncture it. Discard the tough or pithy meat, chop the rest, together with 3 fresh peaches. Put chopped pineapple and peaches back in the shell. Heat 11 cups champagne but do not let it even simmer. Add to the champagne about 1 cup of sugar (less, if you don't want too sweet a sauce), and when the sugar has dissolved, remove the champagne from the fire and let it cool to just about lukewarm. Then add 11 tsp. of Fraisette (a cordial made from a specially prepared alcoholic syrup and strawberries, with a dry wine added) or the same amount of Kirsch. Mix well, then pour the syrup over the chopped peaches and pineapple in the pineapple boats. Transfer to refrigerator to thoroughly chill.

*** HEAVENLY RUM PIE Crust: 18 graham crackers 1 lb. butter, melted 1 cup sugar Dash cinnamon Filling 4 small pkgs. cream cheese 1 cup sugar 2 eggs, beaten 1 tbsp. rum Topping 1 cup sour cream 3 tbsp. sugar 1 tbsp. rum To make crust: Crumble graham crackers and combine with melted butter, sugar and cinnamon. Line a pie tin with mixture.

To make filling: Mix together cream cheese, sugar, eggs and rum. When thick as cream, pour filling into the crust and bake in a 375-degree F. oven for 20 minutes.

To make topping: Mix together sour cream, sugar and rum. Spread this mix on the baked pie and bake 5 minutes more in the 375-degree F. oven.