I have often mentioned the adage 'what you create you have to maintain', which in many many cases is due to the fact the garden design was not thought through, with the result it has now becomes a heavy burden on the purse.

Mother Nature is not programmed for the grass to grow two inches every two weeks or the hedge to grow six inches every month, so why do we mow and hack every two and four weeks or whenever the garden company cometh?

Why do we plant flowering plants as hedges and keep them constantly in geometric forms; would it be easier to install outdoor carpeting to replace shaved lawns, how much money is being wasted on unnecessary tasks on a regular basis?

Poor and incorrect maintenance costs money as well as creating future problems with maturity and general development. Perpetuating the same problem on a constant basis contributes to more poor workmanship to try and resolve the initial problem.

Design is a major criteria in the maintenance that follows – if done correctly – and is based or should be based on the premise 'as and when required maintenance', the essence of the maintenance therefore becomes specific in its approach.

Some obvious examples that I see on a regular basis include; to achieve a dense hedge or screen consider planting it three to four feet in from the boundary; this secures your privacy as to the density of the hedge as you are the only person having the right to prune same.

If you plant it on the boundary line your neighbour is entitled to prune it back to the boundary once it starts to encroach on his property.

Selection of hedge is also important, ask yourself what is the function of the hedge and select accordingly. If you want a flowering hedge at least allow it to flower, constant cutting back to the same 'area' produces spur growth, and very little 'internal' new growth which is what will keep the hedge /screen dense in habit.

Planting distances are also a questionable practice, plants grow some slower than others and some quicker, this again will assist in planting at the correct distance from each other especially when planting a hedge. I recently planted a hibiscus hedge at five foot centres and they are now 'touching'; with correct pruning they have developed 'all over growth' which allows for constructive pruning in the future.

The hedge was planted in large planting holes with 'decent' soil and watered, weeded and fertilised on a regular basis.

Pruning in general is an over indulgent exercise in many gardens, with correct planting distances major pruning should be carried out no more than three times per year.

I constantly see hedges being flayed simply because it is part of the hack, mow and strim maintenance syndrome. Pruning is an exercise to shape the tree, control within reason its growth, and remove dead, dying or diseased wood.

Dense growth can harbour pest and disease as it becomes an incubator, owing to the amount of foliage and the reduction of air flow in and around the plant.Regular pruning becomes a necessity with plantings below windows or close to footpaths etc, and their growth rate dictates constant attention; if a planting below a window needs to be cut on a regular basis because it hinders opening and closing of blinds, surely it is more cost effective to remove the offending plant and install something which will not be such a problem.

On a similar theme, having to prune plants located too close to a path or drive is wasted time and money; relocate plants far enough back so they do not create the need for attention.

Lawns comprise types of grass which create a sward which covers the ground; we use use three types of grass in Bermuda to create lawns – common St. Augustine and a hybrid Floratem; Zoysia and common Bermuda and hybrids.

Each grass type has a 'preferred' height of cut to maximise it growth habit. Using one type of grass means the height of cut will be specific to that particular grass, however, with mixed type lawns height of cut could well be in conflict.

Mixed type lawns often appear to have a quilt appearance, because of their growth habit; it is this appearance which gives the appearance of an untidy lawn which requires mowing more often to 'regularise' the cut height. Mixed lawns are oft prone to higher weed infestation both in winter and summer.

Blowers are in my opinion more labour intensive than they are worth; invariably a high percentage of what is 'blown' ends up in any other area to that of the final collection pile. Some of the blower/vacs are good, whilst on large areas garden vacuum cleaners are far superior and leave the area clean from extraneous debris.

Planning with the adage 'what you create you have to maintain' will over time prove more cost effective and create a superior appearance; it is often a case of deploying labour to those areas that need same at that point in time.

Another adage I recommend is 'if you weed when no weeds are present, you never have any weeds'!

Maintenance comprises, mowing, weeding, fertilising, pest and disease control, pruning, watering etc. each being a single task required at specific points in time, some more often than others, but certainly every two weeks or so! Follow the seasons and with observation the exercise of determining tasks will become more obvious.