first Thanksgiving feast is a matter of conjecture. Nonetheless, these foods, along with corn, oysters and sweet potatoes, have become customary cornerstones of the American Thanksgiving celebration.

But as the following recipes show, you can take an untraditional approach to these time-honoured favourites and still have a splendid feast. And who knows, in time they may become traditions too.

OYSTER SOUFFLE m 36 medium oysters OR 24 large oysters, shucked, cut in half, liquor reserved 3 cup hot oyster liquor Salt and white pepper to taste Dash of cayenne pepper 3 tbsp. butter 2 tbsp. flour 3 cup hot milk 4 egg yolks 5 egg whites PRE-HEAT oven to 400 degrees F. Butter a 11 -qt. (6 cup) souffle m dish. Melt butter in a heavy saucepan, stir in flour with a wooden spoon, and cook over moderate heat for 2 minutes without letting the mixture colour. Remove from heat. When bubbling stops, pour in hot milk and oyster liquor all at once, whisking vigorously until blended. Beat in salt, pepper and cayenne, return to heat, and bring to a boil, whisking for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and beat in egg yolks. Gently stir in oysters.

In a large bowl, beat egg whites with a pinch of salt until stiff. Stir about 1 of them into the sauce to lighten it, then gently fold in the balance. Pour the souffle m mixture into prepared mould, put in oven and immediately lower heat to 375 degrees F. Bake for 30-35 minutes or until the souffle m is well puffed and browned. Serves 4.

CHILLED PUMPKIN CREAM SOUP 1 can (1 lb.) pumpkin (or 1 1 cups fresh pure me) 1 cup chopped onion 21 cups chicken stock 1 tsp. ground mace Pinch of curry powder 1 bay leaf Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 cup heavy cream 1 lime (or lemon), sliced COMBINE pumpkin, onion, stock, spices, bay leaf, salt and pepper to taste in a kettle. Bring to a rolling boil, lower heat, simmer 30 minutes uncovered.

Remove bay leaf, place in a blender or food processor, and pure me until almost smooth. Chill in the refrigerator an hour or more.

When quite cold, stir in cream, taste for seasoning. Chill several more hours, or overnight. (Soup acquires further taste with some sitting). To serve: place in chilled soup plates, and garnish with thin slices of lime. Serves 5.

GRATIN OF APPLES, SWEET POTATOES, AND TURNIPS 2 lbs. sweet potatoes, peeled 1 lb. yellow turnip, peeled 1 lb. cooking apples, peeled Salt 1 cup butter, melted Bread crumbs PRE-HEAT oven to 325 degrees F. Dice potatoes, turnip and apples into 1 -inch pieces. Par-boil diced sweet potatoes 10 minutes. Drain and toss with other diced vegetables, salt to taste, and melted butter. Put in a baking dish with a good tight lid and bake at 325 degrees F. for an hour, tossing twice during the time. The different vegetables cubes should be tender but still hold their shapes. Transfer to a gratin dish, spreading out so they are between 11 to 2 inches deep. Sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs. Turn oven up to 425 degrees F, and when you are ready to serve them, place in the hot oven for several minutes, or until the vegetables are golden on top. Serves 6.

BACON AND CORN SPOONBREAD 3 cup yellow cornmeal 11 cups water 1 cup butter 8 oz. Cheddar cheese, shredded 11 cups cooked fresh corn (3 large ears) or 1 10-oz. pkge. frozen corn, cooked 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tsp. salt 1 cup milk 4 eggs, separated 10 slices bacon, cooked and crumbled How to teach an old turkey new tricks PRE-HEAT oven to 325 degrees F. Combine cornmeal and water in a saucepan and cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly until thick. Remove from heat, add butter and cheese. Stir until both are melted. Add corn, garlic, and salt.

Stir in milk. Beat egg yolks until thick and lemon-coloured; add bacon. Stir into cornmeal mixture. Beat egg whites until stiff but not dry, fold gently into cornmeal mixture. Pour into a lightly greased 21 quart casserole or souffle m dish. Bake 1 hour or more until knife inserted in centre comes out clean. Serve with melted butter or syrup. Serves 6.

CRANBERRY SHORTCAKE 2 cups flour 1 tsp. salt 4 tsp. baking powder 1 tbsp. sugar 1 cup shortening 1 well-beaten egg 1 cups milk Melted butter 1 cup ground raw cranberries 1 cup tart apples, pared and ground 1 cup crushed pineapple, drained 1 cup sugar Dash of salt PRE-HEAT oven to 350 degrees F. Sift together flour, 1 tsp. salt, baking powder, and 1 tbsp. sugar. Cut in shortening until the mixture is crumbly.

Combine egg and milk, stir into first mixture just enough to moisten well.

Turn onto a lightly floured board. Divide dough in half and pat out each half to fit an 8-inch round layer cake pan. Brush with melted butter and top with remaining round. Bake at 350 degrees F. until shortcake appears done.

Combine cranberries, apples, pineapple, 1 cup sugar and dash of salt. Let stand 2 hours, then spread generously between and on top the shortcake rounds.

Cut into wedges and serve with a favourite topping.

For traditionalists cooking their first Thanksgiving dinner, or those seeking to put a little pizzazz into some of the dishes they've always prepared, the following recipes are for you. Allow one cup of stuffing per pound of turkey: BASIC BREAD STUFFING 1 lb. butter 1 medium-size onion, minced 1 cup minced Italian parsley 1 cup minced celery, including leaves 1 tbsp. salt, or to taste 11 tsp. pepper 2 tsp. dried thyme 1 tsp. dried rosemary 1 tsp. sage 8 cups stale bread, cut into 1 -inch cubes, toasted lightly 1 cup chicken broth, plus another 1 cup if stuffing is not cooked in turkey MELT butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add onion and saute m until soft, about 5 minutes. Add parsley, celery, salt, pepper, thyme, rosemary and sage, and cook 5 minutes. Place mixture in a large mixing bowl, add cubed bread and chicken broth, toss to combine. When cool, stuff the turkey and bake.

If you prefer, pre-heat oven to 350 degrees F, add 1 cup chicken broth to the stuffing and bake in a casserole for 40 minutes. Yield: about 10 cups. Oyster Stuffing variation: After preparing bread stuffing, add 1 pint of shucked oysters with liquid and a dash of hot pepper sauce. If baking in a casserole, it will not be necessary to add more chicken broth. Yield 11 cups.

CORN BREAD STUFFING 1 lb. butter 6 slices bacon, diced 1 medium-size onion, chopped 1 lb. breakfast sausage meat 1 medium-size red bell pepper, cored and chopped 2 ribs celery with leaves, chopped 1 cup chopped parsley 2 scallions, chopped 6 cups stale crumbled corn bread 2 cups stale white bread crumbs 1 tbsp. salt 1 tsp. black pepper Dash of hot pepper sauce 1 cup chicken broth if stuffing is not cooked in turkey IN a large skillet, add butter and fry bacon for 3 minutes. Add onion, saute m 5 minutes. Add sausage, red pepper and celery, and cook mixture for 10 minutes. Place mixture in a large bowl, add parsley, scallions, corn and white breads, season with salt, pepper and hot pepper sauce. Stir to combine. When cool, this stuffing can be baked inside the turkey or, if you prefer, add the 1 cup chicken broth, place stuffing in a casserole and bake for 40 minutes at 350 degrees F. Yield: about 10 cups.

PUMPKIN CHIFFON PIE Crust 1 stick (4 tbsp.) butter or margarine 11 cups fine gingersnap crumbs Filling 2 egg yolks, beaten 1 cup dark brown sugar, firmly packed 1 envelope unflavoured gelatin 1 tsp. ground cinnamon 1 tsp. ground nutmeg 1 tsp. ground ginger 1 tsp. salt 3 cup canned pumpkin 1 cup milk 3 egg whites, at room temperature 1 tsp. cream of tartar OR 1 tsp. lemon juice 5 tbsp. sugar Caramel Almonds (optional) 2 tbsp. sugar 1 cup sliced almonds PRE-HEAT oven to 375 degrees F.

To make crust: Melt butter or margarine in a medium saucepan and blend in crumbs. Press mixture into bottom and sides of an 8-inch pie pan. Bake for 7 minutes at 375 degrees F. Chill before filling.

Thanksgiving recipe ideas To make filling: Beat egg yolks in a 11 - to 2-qt. saucepan. Blend in brown sugar, gelatin, spices, salt, pumpkin, and milk. Place pan over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, just until the mixture comes to a boil. Set saucepan in a bowl of ice water and stir until mixture mounds slightly when dropped from a spoon. Remove from ice water and transfer to a large mixing bowl.

Beat egg whites with cream of tartar or lemon juice until they do not slide when the bowl is titled. Sprinkle in sugar, 1 tbsp. at a time, while beating until you have a shiny smooth meringue that holds stiff peaks when the beater is lifted.

Gently fold half meringue thoroughly into the pumpkin mixture to lighten the texture, then fold in second half. Spoon mixture into cold gingersnap crust.

Refrigerate at least 2 hours.

To make caramel almonds: Oil a 12-inch strip of aluminium foil. Place sugar in a small, heavy skillet over low heat, stirring constantly until sugar melts and turns a light golden brown. Add almonds, stir until coated and turn out immediately onto foil. When cool, break into small pieces.

Serve the pie with large dollops of sweetened whipped cream and sprinkle with caramel almonds.

If you want to end the meal on a truly different note, this delicious creation is sure to win raves: THANKSGIVING PUDDING 21 cups homemade dry bread crumbs 3 cup milk 4 eggs, well beaten 1 cup dark-brown sugar 3 tsp. salt 2 tsp. baking powder 1 tsp. cinnamon 1 tsp. nutmeg 1 cup ground suet or butter 1 cup finely chopped dried figs 1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts 1 cup raisins 3 cup currants 2 tbsp. flour BUTTER a 2-qt. pudding mould. Heat water in a pot large enough to hold the mould. Soak bread crumbs in milk, add eggs, sugar, salt, baking powder, cinnamon, and nutmeg, and combine thoroughly. Work the suet or butter in another bowl until it is creamy, then add figs. Combine with bread and milk mixture.

Dredge walnuts, raisins, and currants with the flour. Add to mixture and beat very well to blend thoroughly. Spoon into the mould, cover with tight fitting lid. Put in the large pot with about an inch of water, and steam for 3 hours.

Check water and replenish as necessary. Remove and let cool for 10 minutes before unmoulding. Serve warm with Brandy Hard Sauce.