Log In

Reset Password

What on earth was I doing – learning to surf at my age?

Surf chick: Amanda paddles past the break
This is a short tale of why all women should surf.Who needs guys when you have the ocean?OK it is tough to understand, stubborn, and requires a lot of effort – often frustratingly so, but it will always leave you smiling.

This is a short tale of why all women should surf.

Who needs guys when you have the ocean?

OK it is tough to understand, stubborn, and requires a lot of effort – often frustratingly so, but it will always leave you smiling.

My holiday romance began through a mixture of serendipity and modern telecommunications i.e. a random Googling of the Internet.

That, combined with an American Airlines seat sale, is how I ended up in Mal Pais on the golden shores of the Pacific.

I had last visited Costa Rica 20 years ago as a young backpacker. This time however I opted to forego the gringo trail in search of a new adventure.

It's true that life begins at 40. I decided to take the plunge of learning how to surf. Perusing the Internet however, I got cold feet at many of the surf schools advertised.

The 'women only' camps certainly sounded empowering but I had visions instead of having my confidence crushed by being surrounded by a group of women half my age and twice as fit.

I then hit upon a more appealing destination. A random click of the mouse revealed the promise of 'super number one good times' at Jobbie's Longboards Surf Camp.

Designed "for people who seek an amazing adventure, but who also love a little pampering", it certainly sounded fun. Plus a fishing trip and a 'blender madness' party on the Friday night? Well this sounded more like it.

So this was how I fell in love with the ocean and ended up experiencing one of the best weeks of my life.

Admittedly I did have some trepidation. What on earth was I doing, hoping to learn to surf at my age? That, combined with a lack of fitness following the Christmas party season and a lower back injury – what was I thinking?

From the moment of my arrival however, I was immediately made to feel at ease and 'part of the gang' (which is quite heartwarming for the solo female traveller).

Starting with my first surf lesson the following morning, the week was an exhilarating ride with amazing experiences which not only pushed my boundaries but some of the preconceptions I had of myself.

In fact the week was so action-packed, by the third day I felt like I had been away for months.

For some reason I can't explain, time seemed to stand still in this surfer town on the tip of the Nicoya Peninsula.

From the wild horses galloping through the surf to the breathtaking sunsets, the unspoilt beauty of the rainforest and the warmth of the local people, this truly was a paradise on Earth.

As well as learning to surf, I conquered a fear of heights flying through the rainforest on a canopy tour, jumped down a (small) waterfall, and had a few Ernest Hemingway moments fishing for tuna and barracuda.

Maybe it was those moments of meditation in surf instructor Josh (Jobbie) Evans' yoga sessions, but Mal Pais exerted a surreal, dreamlike quality.

And the natural beauty of the male surfer species – otherwise known as 'eye candy' – only added to the enchantment .

My holiday romance however, was with the ocean. As a diver I am used to the tug and pull of the big blue but surfing – this was something completely different.

I will never be the female equivalent of Kelly Slater, but that's not what it's all about.

There is a saying that "the best surfer in the water is always the one having the most fun", and I would like to think that holds true.

One morning as Jobbie and I walked down to the beach an old man told him: "You no longer surf, you dance with the ocean."

As for myself, I was more like a toddler taking my first few steps in learning how to walk.

I would get up on the board, try to retain my balance, wobble and then tumble over. Falling off however, is just as much fun.

I never mastered those wild, white horses by the time I had to (reluctantly) leave, but I was more than happy to have popped up on the board and to have paddled beyond the break.

Most importantly, I learned a lot about myself and my potential.

The ocean reawakened an inner strength and happiness, in what almost felt like a spiritual connection.

Paddling out into the waves, it was living in the purity of the moment and the joy of being alive, and for that surf instructors Jobbie and Dustin Nesmith can also take credit.

These two surf dudes were so laid back, encouraging and enthusiastic, I was left to go at my own pace and it was just too much fun.

I did however push my body to the limits of physical exhaustion, probably out of over-enthusiasm, but the ocean kept me re-energised.

After the muscles and ligaments in my lower back started complaining after the first few days, somehow the joy of being in the water banished any pain. Jobbie's brilliant pre-surf yoga sessions on the beach however also helped me, and I am now a yoga convert.

Sometimes when I close my eyes I can still hear the crashing surf of the Pacific and feel the warmth of the sand of Playa Carmen on my back in 'Corpse Pose'.

So aside from the benefits of yoga, what else did I learn from my surfing adventure?

• Don't be scared of following your dreams. You're never too old to learn how to surf;

• Have an open mind and an open heart;

• You can achieve anything in life with a bit of patience, determination and encouragement. Most importantly, never give up;

• Your body is amazing so don't be scared of pushing it to its limits – it will surprise you;

• Whatever life throws at you, the ocean gives you the strength to cope with anything.

Now I am back in Bermuda, I would like to continue my surfing. If there is anyone out there who can assist, please e-mail me: adale@royalgazette.bm

For more information on Jobbie's Longboards Surf Camp go to: www.surfjobbie.com. To find out more about Costa Rica log onto: http://www.visitcostarica.com

http://www.tourism.co.cr/

http://www.costarica.com/

http://www.tourism-costarica.com/

Surf dudes:Instructors Dustin Nesmith (left) and Josh (Jobbie) Evans (right)