preparations.

Of course, Bermudians -- not one of whom lives more than a mile from the sea -- have enjoyed fish for centuries, and usually prepare it along traditional lines.

But now, thanks to the Bermuda Library, Ann Clark's Fabulous Fish Cookbook, containing 180 unusual new recipes, are yours for the trying.

As a food consultant and founder of La Bonne Cuisine Cooking School, Ms Clark has devised easy and innovative ways to enjoy the "fruits of the sea''. The recipes are described in explicit detail, and the book also includes menus and detailed preparation techniques.

Here's a sampling: OYSTER-PARMESAN POPOVERS 4 large eggs 3 cup whole milk 3 cup all-purpose flour, sifted 1 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons fresh snipped chives, chopped basil, or chopped parsley 2 tablespoons unsalted sweet butter (for greasing ramekins) 1 cup Italian Parmesan cheese, finely grated (additional) big pinch cayenne and freshly ground black pepper 1 10-oz. jar fresh oysters, drained and patted dry (cut very large oysters in half if necessary) or 6 large, freshly shucked oysters COMBINE eggs, milk, flour, 1 cup of Parmesan cheese, salt, and herbs in a mixer and mix well. Fill six well-buttered 4-5 oz. individual ramekins, custard cups, or souffle dishes three-quarters full (about 1 cup).

Combine 1 cup of Parmesan an peppers. Roll dry oysters in the mixture, and place one large oyster in the middle of each ramekin.

Place the ramekins on a thin baking sheet (if using a heavy sheet, be sure to increase the oven temperature 25 degrees) and bake in a pre-heated 450 degree F. oven about 20 to 25 minutes or until popovers puff high and are crusty brown on the outside. OR: turn oven down to 400 degrees F. after 10 minutes if popovers brown too quickly. Makes 6 popovers.

Suggested Wine: Chardonnay/Muscadet/Orvieto.

LOBSTER, KIWI, AND ORANGE SALAD WITH TOMATO VINAIGRETTE An elegant but simple combination, very colourful, and low in calories.

2 lobster tails, cooked, chilled, and cut crosswise in 1 -inch slices 4 kiwi fruit, peeled and sliced or cut in wedges 2 large oranges, peeled in sections, pith removed 1 head curly endive (dark tops removed), escarole, or Boston lettuce, well washed and dried (use tender inside leaves) Vinaigrette 1 tablespoon lemon juice or lemon and lime juice mixed 1 tsp salt 1 tsp freshly ground white pepper 2 teaspoons tomato paste, or 1 small tomato, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 3-4 tablespoons virgin olive oil or safflower oil 1 tablespoon heavy cream PREPARE salad ingredients. Make vinaigrette dressing. Recipe can be made ahead and held a day at this point.

Toss lettuce with half the vinaigrette and arrange on a large platter. Arrange lobster tail slices, kiwis, and orange sections attractively over the lettuce and spoon remaining vinaigrette over the salad. Serves 6.

Note: Try this recipe with cooked crayfish tails, shrimp, crab, or scallops.

Suggested Wine: California Chardonnay PROVENCAL SUMMER SANDWICH (PAN BAGNAT) A salad in a crusty roll. Pan Bagnat is a Provencal word for "bathed bread'' -- the bread is brushed or bathed with olive oil. A perfect picnic lunch.

6 large, crusty French bread rolls or round kaiser rolls, sliced in half horizontally 2 large cloves garlic, cut in half approx. 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 6 teaspoons Spanish sherry, wine vinegar or red wine vinegar salt freshly ground black pepper 6 paper-thin slices red onion 6 large tomato slices 1 lb. grilled fresh tuna, sliced, OR a 7-ounce can albacore tuna, drained and flaked 8 radishes, thinly sliced 1 green pepper, sliced in thin rings 6 anchovies, rinsed, drained, and patted dry 6 large basil leaves or sprigs of Italian parsley Optional additions: Imported black olives; 2 hard-cooked eggs, sliced; 10 ounces cooked artichoke hearts, sliced; 1 stalk celery, sliced; 6 pieces lettuce; sliced, roasted pimentos COVER with other bread half, and press down to firmly combine all ingredients.

Wrap tightly and keep cool until served. Pan Bagnat will keep about 4 or 5 hours. Serves 5.

Suggested Wines: Tavel Rose, California White Zinfandel BAY SCALLOP GAZPACHO WITH ROASTED TOMATOES, BASIL, AND AVOCADO Basil, avocado, and scallops enhance the gazpacho with their wonderful flavors and textures. A perfect summer lunch, everything in it is healthful and low in calories, and it can be made ahead.

1 large clove garlic 1 teaspoon coarse salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 1 tablespoons Spanish sherry wine vinegar (or, if unavailable, red wine vinegar) 3 tablespoons virgin olive oil 4 large ripe tomatoes 3 cup strained juice from roasted chopped tomatoes, or canned tomato juice 8 ounces bay scallops, quickly rinsed clean (see Note) 1 cup chopped parsley stems pinch of salt 1 large red bell pepper or pimento, finely chopped 1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped 2 large scallions including 2 inches of green stalk, finely chopped 1 cup ice cubes 1 large avocado, coarsely chopped 4 thick slices day-old French bread, cut in 1 -inch cubes 8 large basil leaves, julienned 1 cup chopped Italian parsley MASH garlic and salt in a mortar, transfer to 3-quart bowl. Mix in pepper, vinegar and oil.

To roast tomatoes: Place whole tomatoes in a very hot, dry skillet and toss until lightly browned on all sides; this takes only 10 minutes. Remove tomatoes, peel, seed, and finely chop them over a sieve set over a bowl to catch the juices. Reserve the juice; add with tomatoes to bowl.

Place scallops in lightly salted boiling water to cover with the parsley stems. Cover and remove from heat. Drain after 1 minute. Chop in half. Add to bowl.

Add all remaining ingredients to bowl and taste for seasoning -- you should be able to taste the vinegar -- and serve immediately. If serving later, combine everything except avocado, bread, basil, and parsley, which you will add just before serving, and chill up to 6 hours.

Note: Use larger ocean scallops if bay scallops are not available, and cut them into small pieces. Serves 4 to 5.

Suggested Wines: Chilled Beaujolais, Sauvignon Blanc.

PASTA WITH CRAYFISH This very elegant dish has the flavours Louisianans use in their crayfish sauces -- onions, green peppers, celery, and cayenne, but in a more delicate measure.

Crayfish Sauce 4 tablespoons unsalted sweet butter 2 tablespoons minced shallots 1 red onion, minced 2 tablespoons minced scallions 1 green pepper, diced 1 small rib celery, diced 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 1 to 1 1 cups light or heavy cream 3 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper fresh lemon juice pinch of dried basil pinch of dried thyme 1 lb. fettuccine, linguine, angel hair pasta, or papardelle 1-2 cups crayfish tails, pre-cooked or raw (see Note) 2 tablespoons unsalted sweet butter 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, for garnish To make sauce: Melt butter in a skillet and cook all vegetables over medium heat until soft. Stir in flour, cook 3 minutes. Add cream, cook about 7-8 minutes over medium heat until sauce has slightly thickened. Add seasonings, lemon juice, and herbs. The recipe can be made to this point a day ahead, refrigerated, and reheated.

Just before serving, cook pasta according to package directions.

While pasta is cooking, reheat sauce, add crayfish, and cook 5 minutes for pre-cooked crayfish and 10 minutes for uncooked.

Drain pasta, toss first with butter and pepper, then with crayfish sauce.

Garnish with parsley and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

Note: Crab, small shrimp, or scallops can be used in place of the crayfish.

Suggested Wines: Sparkling wine, Champagne.

SAUTEED SOFT-SHELLED CRAB WITH GINGER 1 cup cornstarch or all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 tsp freshly ground white pepper 8 soft-shelled crabs, dressed, rinsed, and patted dry 4 tbsp unsalted sweet butter 3 tbsp safflower or virgin olive oil 3 large cloves garlic, minced 1 cup sesame seeds, toasted until golden 1 tbsp mushroom soy sauce 2 tbsp minced fresh ginger 1 tblsp water 2 tsp. sesame oil 1 cup fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish COMBINE cornstarch with salt, cayenne, and white pepper. Dip crabs into this mixture. Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter with 1 1 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet and when hot add crabs, undersides down, and saute over medium-high heat 3 to 5 minutes or until browned. Turn and saute 2 to 3 minutes more. Add more vutter and oil if needed. Keep sauteed crabs on a heatproof platter in a warm (300 degrees F.) oven.

Cook ginger and garlic in saute pan until soft, scraping cooked bits, then add sesame seed, soy, water, and sesame oil. When very hot, pour sauce over crab, garnish with cilantro, and serve immediately. Serves 4.

Suggested Wine: Sauvignon Blanc.

STEAMED MUSSELS WITH ORANGE This variation on moules mariniere has a wonderful subtle flavour 3 tablespoons unsalted sweet butter 1 cup finely chopped scallions 1 cup minced shallots 1 red bell pepper, finely chopped 1 teaspoon dried thyme OR 2 teaspoons fresh thyme 1 teaspoon dried basil 2 teaspoons finely grated orange rind 1 1 cups dry white wine 1 cup water 5 to 6 dozen fresh mussels, scrubbed and debearded, left in the shell 1 cup minced Italian parsley MELT butter in bottom of a large stockpot or casserole. Gently cook onions until soft, add all remaining ingredients except mussels and bring to a boil.

Add mussels, cover pot and cook over medium-high heat until the mussels open, about 3 to 5 minutes. Discard any mussels which have not opened. Remove mussels to a large heated bowl or platter, add hot broth and vegetables sprinkle with parsley, and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

Suggested Wine: Macon Blanc BRAISED SCROD WITH LEEKS POTATOES, THYME, AND CREAM This is rather like a stew. It has a homey, satisfying quality with its simple, clear flavours.

4 leeks, carefully rinsed, trimmed, and thinly sliced 2 tbsp unsalted sweet butter 1 1 cups light cream 1 cup chicken broth 1 teaspoon dried thyme OR 2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves 1 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley 1 teaspoon salt 1 tsp freshly ground white pepper 1 1 lbs. new potatoes, parboiled, drained, and halved if large 1 1 lbs. fresh scrod fillets, cut into 1 1 -inch chunks (see Note) GENTLY cook leeks in butter in a 4-quart heavy-bottomed casserole until soft.

Add light cream, chicken broth, herbs and seasonings, and simmer 10 minutes uncovered. Add potatoes, cook 5 more minutes, then add scrod. Stir so scrod is covered with hot sauce. Cover and simmer gently 8-10 minutes, or until scrod is cooked. Serves 4.

Note: Cod, haddock, pollock, hake, halibut, or catfish may be used in place of the scrod.

Suggested Wine: Chardonnay SALMON FILLET BAKED WITH PAPRIKA AND WALNUT SAUCE In this recipe, the thoroughly Hungarian ploy of flavours in the sauce is intriguingly different and very delicious: rich (walnuts), tart (lemon), mildly hot (paprika), and sour-creamy (sour cream).

Paprika and Walnut Sauce 1 tablespoos safflower or virgin olive oil 7 scallions, with green part, thinly sliced 1 large green bell pepper, chopped 1 heaping tablespoon Hungarian paprika, mild or medium-hot 1 cup large walnut pieces 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 8 oz. sour cream 1 lb. salmon fillet, cut into 2 equal pieces juice of 1 lemon HEAT oil in a small saucepan, add scallions and green pepper, cook over high heat, stirring, 2 to 3 minutes, or until onions and pepper are not quite cooked through. Add paprika and stir 1 minute. Remove from heat. Add walnuts, salt, pepper, and sour cream. Stir to mix well and taste seasoning.

This recipe can be prepared ahead up to this point and refrigerated overnight.

Bring to room temperature and gently reheat to use.

Place salmon fillets in a small oiled gratin dish. Spread sauce over the salmon to cover, pour lemon juice over all, and bake at 400 degrees 10 minutes per inch of thickness of fish and sauce, or about 15 minutes. Serves 2.

Note: Pike fillets or any 3 -inch-thick fillets of lean fish such as redfish, porgy, red snapper, or lingcod may be substituted for the salmon.

Suggested Wine: Riesling A REAL CATCH -- "Ann Clark's Fabulous Fish'' gives seafood fans plenty of new ideas for preparing seafood. The cook book is available at the Bermuda Library.