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Gems 'n' wood the stuff of unique dual display

An unusual exhibition opens in Bermuda this week when the jewellery of Raj Tolaram and the furniture of James Constable goes on display at the Masterworks Gallery in Hamilton.

"The idea for a show evolved out of a chance meeting about three months ago,'' says Mr. Tolaram. "Although James works in wood and I work with gems and precious metals, I think our approach to originality of design complements each other's work. We both produce `one of a kind' pieces, usually custom-made, which requires a high level of craftsmanship. Anyway, we thought it would be great to do a show together!'' Admittedly expensive, since Mr. Tolaram works with high quality gems and gold, he says his designs combine the traditions of 17th century India with the classic lines of European craftsmanship.

For Bermuda-born Mr. Tolaram, who leaves soon for New York to begin a post-graduate course in gemmology, the decision to become a jewellery designer was really what he calls "a natural flow of events''.

His father is well-known businessman, Mr. Doulat Tolaram, who specialises in the sale of jewellery and artefacts from around the world. "I grew up surrounded by these things and because of the nature of my father's business, we travelled a lot.'' He recalls that even as a small child, he liked to play with damaged jewellery, which he "re-designed''.

"I was always fascinated by gem stones and the fact that they are produced out of the earth. This, of course, is another similarity that I share with James -- we both work with natural `earth' materials. And out of them, we create works of art!'' Mr. Tolaram says his involvement in his father's business began "with the very first thing I broke in the store!'' On completion of his year-long course, Mr. Tolaram will base his business in New York, designing and selling jewellery on a private level, spear-heading projects for his family's company in the US, as well as developing retail business for the Bermuda store.

He graduated in jewellery design from the Gemmology Institute of America in Santa Monica in 1985 and has already completed the first half of the gemmology course -- the grading of diamonds. "The other half deals with other coloured stones. There are so many stones that most people have never heard of which have marvellous potential for jewellery.'' American James Constable works out of a woodshop in Dockyard. With his Bermudian wife, Jennifer, who helps design and build his pieces, Mr.

Constable's work is distinguished by its blend of Asian and American "Shaker'' design.

Although he grew up in a family of doctors and lawyers, he says that neither of these career options appealed to him: "I was doing some carpentry, lots of travelling and kayaking, and I happened to meet a man who designed and made furniture. I knew instantly, that this was what I wanted to do. The idea of working to a very high level appeals to me. Very few things these days are done as well as they could be, and I find that unfortunate. This man, who was Chinese, taught me everything I know. I went through what was almost a traditional oriental apprenticeship, where you leave your ego on the doorstep and give up everything to work and attune yourself with your teacher.

"Unfortunately, the idea of apprenticeship is dying out -- even if people do it, it tends to be a business relationship, which is not quite the same. In any event, he taught me in two years -- with 24-hour days! -- what would normally take ten.'' That was six years ago, and already, Mr. Constable's work, crafted in the finest of woods, is in great demand. He admits that his pieces are expensive, partly because of the high quality of the wood, and the time involved in making each piece.

"It takes me at least 80 hours to make a table, for instance, but as with any physical job you can only work at that level for about four hours at a time.

"My wife helps with the design and does the sketches, and I interpret them and try to make them work.'' Woods used by Mr. Constable include walnut, cherry, maple and some of the more exotic varieties, such as bubinga and purple heart from South America. So far, he has not worked in Bermuda cedar but, he says, he would like to see local craftsmen trying their hands at the simple lines of "Shaker-esque'' design: "I think cedar would lend itself well to that.'' Other local woods which Mr.

Constable is eyeing include fiddlewood and casuarina.

Sometimes, he says, a particularly beautiful piece of wood will "cry out'' for a certain design. He accepts commissions, but only if he feels a certain rapport with the prospective client: "If they want a Queen Anne side table, I tell them to go somewhere else!'' At the moment, most of his clientele are Bermudians. "Although this island is small, there is a lot of wealth here and people have sophisticated taste -- partly, I suppose, because people travel so much.'' The joint exhibition will be open to the public in the Masterworks Gallery on Bermuda House Lane from Saturday, August 26 through September 18.

DESIGNING MEN -- Mr. John Constable (left) and Mr. Raj Tolaram whose two-man exhibition of Design and Craftsmanship opens this weekend.