At the time of writing we are suffering a major drought which, coming so early in the season, is a cause for concern.

However, this will not deter weeds which by their very nature seem to withstand the vagaries of Mother Nature, be it in flower beds or in lawns.

In such drought conditions it is not advisable to use chemicals to control weeds or even pest and diseases unless the plants are well irrigated and then only in the cool of the day.

Lawns are especially suffering while flowering plants are as floriferous as they could be, however the stress of drought will have an effect if it lasts.

A healthy lawn maketh a garden, especially when in many gardens the lawn can "cover" over 60 percent of the grounds.

A "good" lawn should be virtually weed-free, of good colour with little or no thatch and of one grass type. Selecting the right grass type for the specific area will save future headaches with less maintenance problems to deal with.

Mixed type lawns can be troublesome not only from a patchwork appearance but also with weed control as chemical control for one type of grass may adversely affect another type.

Mowing heights also vary with the result the appearance often looks unkempt. A major factor in creating a successful lawn is preparation and installation, both being the framework for a good sward and a level surface.

Uniformity of soil depth will ensure a good root system and overall colour to lawns during dry periods. I suggest a good 18 inches of soft material comprising six to nine inches of "poor" soil and to finished level with "good" soil. When spreading sub/top soils, roll the area every six inches of grade to ensure equal settlement throughout, thus giving a solid flat surface when at finished grade.

Apply a starter fertiliser into soil surface prior to plugging, sodding or seeding and water in; also ensure the sod production area has been well watered prior to lifting. The soil surface should be firm for the installation of either seed or plugs.

Common Bermuda grass seed is sown at a rate of two to three pounds per thousand square feet, sow in two directions to obtain a more equal coverage.

St. Augustine plugs are planted at four inches to six inches apart and are best installed in spring.

As temperatures rise, they will, when maintained properly, in fill quickly.

Warm season grasses are St. Augustine and variety Floratem, a chinch bug resistant strain; Bermuda grasses and their hybrids and Zoysia.

Each has a place in design and selection should be based on such questions as shade or light; salt spray area or protected, drought tolerance, type of lawn required, heavily used or simply aesthetic value, wear and tear value and maintenance regime also important, or who is to maintain and the cost attached thereto if done by a landscape company.

Let us examine the three types of grass for various areas.

St. Augustine grass is not advisable in the common form as it is subject to attack by chinch bug which will devastate a lawn in a short period of time given the right conditions.

Floratem a chinch bug resistant variety and is recommended over the common; install as plugs at four to six inches apart. Floratem is best used as an "aesthetic" lawn as it looks first class if cut at a minimum height of three inches; it will not tolerate regular foot-traffic and wears "thin" when this happens.

It has a tolerance for shade and grows well in full sun; suffers in drought conditions but stand up reasonably well to coastal conditions.

Mow with a rotary blade mower with a minimum height of cut being three inches. Installation can be by full sod or plugs, the latter being the most cost effective method if proper maintenance is carried out in the initial stages.

It requires dethatching every year or so, contingent on thatch build up density. This is best carried out in spring when recuperation is quick and green up restores a good appearance rather quickly.

Bermuda grass is found in the common form and on occasion hybrid seed is available, the latter often used on putting greens and tightly mown lawns where high quality is desired.

Height of cut can vary with this grass from one half inch to one and one half inches, however the hybrid types can be mown closer.

For a close mown lawn use a reel mower with at least eight blades on the cylinder. For a longer cut use a rotary mower.

If using a reel machine, ensure blades are always at peak performance with regular sharpening and setting against sole plate.

Bermuda grass does not like shade but will tolerate drought conditions, and will recuperate quickly after heavy rains.

It is relatively tolerant of wear and tear, with verticutting and aeration assisting restoration of good growth when carried out in the spring.

Zoysia is in my opinion much maligned as being invasive, I would suggest that garden maintenance regulates this problem if carried out correctly and on an as and when required basis!

It is a tough grass with great wear and tear resistance to foot traffic; it will take full sun but is less tolerant of shade, it is also relatively good in drought conditions contingent on its height of cut being short and no thatch being present.

For best results, i.e. short mown effect it should be mowed with a reel mower, when mowed short one can create stripes or block effects thus highlighting the denseness of the sward.

It is best installed as full sod – though quite expensive – as plugging can create an undulating finish as the plugs are slow to fill in with the result the surrounding soil is slowly "eroded" thus giving the patchy appearance.

When making your selection, consider the function of your lawn and accommodate that need, it is after all an extension to the house during the BBQ season, with that in mind when used it should be clean and tidy but still hardy enough for foot traffic.