A suit is the most important item in a man's wardrobe. Whether it is worn daily for business or just on special occasions, it makes a statement.

Yet many men approach buying a suit much as they would buying any other commodity. They simply walk into a store, check the rack for the right size, pull out one or two in their price range, and buy the one they like best.

Chances are that when they wear it, the suit will be less than flattering.

Why? The reasons can vary from poor tailoring to patterns, styles and colours which are unflattering.

While fashion is purely a matter of taste, there are some basic tenets which should be borne in mind when buying a suit. These include the individual's height, weight, hair and skin colour.

Details such as centre or side (double) vents in a jacket, lapel width, buttons and cuffs are a matter of individual taste, and have nothng to do with what complements the wearer.

On the other hand, things like colour, check sizes or the width of pin stripes, and single or double breasted follow certain guidelines.

"For a portly gentleman, a single breasted jacket is more suitable than a double one,'' bespoke tailor-fitter Mr. Charles Reilly explained. "A double breasted jacket makes this type of individual look untidy because when the jacket is open there is too much fabric and it flaps around,'' Similarly, a large gentleman should choose his pin-striped suit carefully because the wrong choice will have the effect of making him look even larger -- "like a walking bar code'', Mr. Reilly quipped.

Checked fabrics must also be chosen with care.

"A gentleman of small build should not wear a full Prince of Wales check because it would look silly,'' Mr. Reilly said. "On the other hand, a subtle plaid could be flattering.'' In the world of tailor-made suits, the choice from over a thousand fabrics means that amid the subtle variations there is always something for everyone.

As to what colour(s) to buy, again this is a matter of choice, although Mr.

Reilly said that "every man should always have at least a blue and a grey suit in his wardrobe''.

"Blue is a power colour. People get taken more seriously when they wear a dark suit rather than a light beige one, for example,'' Mr. Reilly said.

He noted, however, that hair colour and skin tone had to be be taken into consideration when choosing suit colours.

"There must be a contrast between the suit and the skin colour -- either lighter or darker, but not the same,'' Mr. Reilly advised.

Darker suits are more slimming than lighter ones, as are striped suits, which can also make the wearer appear taller.

When buying any suit, function is another important consideration. Will it be worn for work or only on special occasions? What sort of work does the wearer do? Of course, the made-to-measure suit invariably wins out over the off-the-peg one because the wearer undergoes extensive consultation, measuring and fitting to ensure a perfect fit.

In the world of bespoke tailoring, people like Mr. Reilly and Mr. Nicholas Quinlivan take infinite care to ensure that the customer will look his absolute best.

"There are over 20 measurements to be taken, and 22 figurations,'' Mr.

Quinlivan observed.

Figurations include everything from the wearer's neck shape to his present or past occupation and leisure pursuits.

"Athletes, for example, usually have a square neck, and (ex-)military men tend to stand in a certain way,'' the tailor-fitters explained, "so we would make the top of an athlete's trouser legs a little wider to accommodate his muscular development, and where the (ex-)military man tends to stand so erect that the back of the jacket hangs away from him, we would reduce the fullness to compensate.'' In fact, customers have remarked that, in the process of buying a tailor-made suit, they're asked more questions by the bespoke tailor-fitter than their physician! "A lot of people think we're just salesmen but we've had extensive training and overseas experience in the made-to-measure suit business,'' Mr. Reilly noted.

Indeed, people in the bespoke tailoring profession are invaluable, for at the end of the day their customers walk away with suits which are absolutely correct for them. For it to be otherwise would be a poor advertisement for both the company and the person who fitted it.

In choosing the right cloth for a suit, the decision should be based on such factors as what sort of use it will get, where it will be worn, and what will stand up best to travel.

"Cloth can vary from 100 percent polyster to silk and merino wools,'' Mr.

Quinlivan said. "In the '70s polyester obtained a less than desirable name, but today the fabric is so much improved that it feels like silk.'' A blend of polyster and wool combines crease resistance with durability, while 100 percent pure wool is a hard-wearing cloth available in a variety of weights and grades.

"The best wool you can possibly buy is Australian merino wool,'' Mr. Reilly said. "It has been developed to the stage where it can be spun out to a very fine piece of cloth. There are high twist, close weave wool fabrics today which not only have excellent durability but are also very lightweight -- an important consideration in this climate.'' While some men favour such adaptations as a half lining in a jacket in the interests of coolness, Mr. Reilly is not among them.

"Viewed from behind as the person walks, the line where the lining ends can clearly be seen,'' he said.

Half lining in trousers, on the other hand, keeps skin away from the fabric.

Details such as lapel widths, slanted or straight pockets -- with or without flaps -- pleated or straight front trousers, cuffs or no cuffs, waistbands with or without belt loops -- are all a matter of personal taste. Trouser cuffs on lightweight suits sometimes give trousers a better drape.

There is no "right'' length for trousers. Some men prefer them long enough to give a small "break'' in the front crease, while others like the legs to hang straight.

"We suggest that trousers have a slight break to enable them to be worn with different shoes, and also so that when the person sits, it gives them a better appearance.'' The ideal jacket length is one inch below the seat.

Of course, choosing the right suit is only half the equation. Accessories are what make or break the finished image.

"If you choose the wrong accessories you might as well be wearing a paper bag,'' Mr. Reilly remarked.

The bespoke tailor/fitters offered these guidelines: Shirts: A white shirt will complement any suit, but care should be taken in choosing a patterned one. A striped shirt with a striped suit and polka dot tie is not the way to go! Pay attention to collar design. Button down collars often "pull'' on the wearer and sit poorly. Spread collars (where the points are wide apart) will emphasise the weight of a large man, but are best for ties with Windsor knots.

Tab or narrow cutaway collars set a more casual tone.

Shirt Cuffs: Ideally, these should extend half an inch below the jacket cuff.

Ties: Should harmonise with the suit rather than shout against it. Brown, burgundy, tan are "warm'' colours, while black, grey and blues are "cold colours.'' As a rule of thumb, wear warms with warms, and colds with colds.

Socks: Should match the trousers. If in doubt, wear black! Shoes: Slip-ons set a more casual tone than lace-ups such as wing tips or brogues. Every wardrobe should have one pair of black and one pair of brown shoes.

Cuff Links: A matter of choice, but should harmonise with the shirt.