ON THE BOOKSHELF: David Chang's "Momofuku"

(AP) – Let's be real: You are never going to cook from "Momofuku."

But this first cookbook from three-time James Beard Award winner David Chang lays bare the talent and obsession that has propelled the New York chef to superstardom.

Its gorgeous photos, sleek, personable narrative and more than 100 recipes will inspire anyone who loves restaurants — or just bacon, for that matter.

It often has been observed that Chang combines classical training with an everyman's taste.

That is why his reputation-making pork buns will disappear from the table in 30 seconds, but take all day to make.

The recipe for ramen broth from Chang's Momofuku Noodle Bar will require 10 pounds (4½ kilograms) of meat, a dozen steps and roughly half a day. If you have gone this far and need yet another challenge, let Chang show you how to cold-smoke your own meat.

But none of that is the point. The point is to go with Chang on his journey to creating one of the most successful and unusual restaurant empires in the country.

Crass, conversational and ribboned with gratuitous language, this memoir/cookbook places Chang across the table from you, leading you chapter-by-chapter through the creation of his New York City East Village outposts Momofuku Noodle Bar, Ssam Bar and Ko.

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BOOK: "Momofuku" by David Chang and Peter Meehan (Clarkson Potter, 2009)