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Zina goes to Milan for a date with Gucci

Haute Couture. It's a glamorous world of papparazzi, the fabulously rich and the downright fabulous and young Bermudian Zina Edwards was right there.

Manageress of the nearly one-year-old Gucci Store at Crisson's on Front Street, Ms Edwards was an invited guest of Gucci at designer Tom Ford's fall/winter show in Milan, Italy in early March.

One of 200 at the swank event, she was able to select stock from over 5,000 Gucci products designed by creative director Ford.

"It was a bit of a departure for him,'' she told The Royal Gazette this week.

"He has been very sexy and raw. Now he's more body conscious and conservative,'' Ms Edwards added.

Ford has gone from "ridiculously short'' to very feminine silhouettes, she said.

"He will still leave women feminine looking and sexy,'' she continued. "Even if they are wearing a man's suit, they'll have on impossibly high stiletto heels.'' "He is an architect by training but did a few sketches and has risen steadily in the fashion world.'' For his show, Ford had the whole room painted white with blue lighting.

"It was a total package!'' she said. "The fashion show was spectacular, it took over a whole city block.'' Ms Edwards noted for the people at the show, black was de rigueur -- Ford's personal wardrobe is made up of nothing but black.

She however, was unmoved, saying: "Next year I'll wear bright colours. Only four of 200 people were not wearing black in that whole room.'' "One of them, whom I met, was Leon Arthur Talley of British Vogue,'' she added. "He was fabulous and flamboyant and wore his wrap-around shades indoors!'' With her eye on trends in the streets of Milan, Ms Edwards noted: "Pink, and capri pants and pedal pushers up to the knee have all returned.'' This spring's arrivals are the first full collection chosen completely by Ms Edwards.

"We have some amazing stuff coming this time. I went on my first trip last July and it's just getting here,'' she said.

She describes her customers as either traditionalists, the status seeker, or those who buy Gucci strictly for its quality.

"The traditionalist might want a classic loafer, of the same style that he had twenty years ago,'' she said.

"On the other hand, the younger person wants something new especially with the emblem while the quality seeker doesn't necessarily want the ostentation of the Gucci monogram.'' "If it is made well, it will last forever!'' she added.

Like other designer labels, Gucci is protective of its image and Ford -- a Texan -- has gained a reputation as a ruthless businessman as much as an inventive designer.

The company was once family owned like most fashion houses but is leading the industry in going public.

"They were headed toward a breakup. But they've risen like the mythical phoenix,'' Ms Edwards added.

It has also taken away most franchise licences and had become "very strict about the Gucci aesthetic''.

The house of Gucci has seen a turnaround from its lowest point in the 1980s of $250 million in gross annual sales to a robust 1 billion in 1997.

It had also nearly completed a move back to its original home of Florence Italy.

"We are lucky to have it,'' she said of Crissons."We are independent of Gucci America and Gucci of Italy.'' The store at the back of the Crissons jewellry store is subject to inspections from a New York based visual manager.

As per creative director Ford's directions for all of the more than 150 Gucci stores, there has to be an emphasis on minimalism.

"The space as they call it has to be organised to his liking,'' she said. The store is a small boutique with among other things belts, shoes, and wallets.

Handbags are a staple however, and Ms Edwards said there had been a revival in their popularity.

"The designer handbag is the hot item now.'' she added.

This week Ms Edwards would have done the late Rudolfo Gucci proud.

Dressed completely in black, she wore a pair of metal stiletto heeled turquoise pumps that rose at least three or four inches high.

Ms Edwards attended McGill University in Montreal and "did some modelling there''.

"I was also costume director for two student films there. One of the films has been featured on Canada AM and in the Toronto Globe and Mail , she said.

"I have a real keen interest in fashion and in particular the creative side of it.'' "I sketch now and then. I've had only one thing made -- it was my sister's prom dress. But I don't design,'' she added. "I've worked for RG Magazine as a stylist on a number of occasions.'' She described the recent trend of the old Continental European fashion houses hiring young British and American designers.

"The British shows and designers are not as trend conscious as the others,'' Ms Edwards added. "The Brits and Americans are more no holds barred.'' These young designers are adding new vitality to the fashion world and Gucci's Ford is the leading light.