Pity the American male -- the poor schlub with a mortgage, crab grass and a paunch who busts his hump every day as he sweats downsizing, his 401(k) return, looming college tuition and his expanding bald spot, all while trying to memorise his kids' Saturday soccer schedule.

If that's not pressure enough, along comes something called "dress-down Friday'' at the office that quickly becomes "dress-down Monday through Friday'' and he's supposed to instinctively know what to wear that will make him look professional and still fit in with the "new corporate culture''.

Dang! What is society doing to this guy? "In almost every situation a man finds himself in today, the fashion rules have changed dramatically,'' said Connie Marsh, fashion trend manager for Sears.

A recent survey commissioned by Sears found six situations that men find particularly difficult to dress for: Church on Sunday (46.5 percent) Sporting events as a company guest (33.2 percent) Dinner at a friend's home (33.2 percent) Family reunion (28.7 percent) Going out socially after work (23.3 percent) Casual day at work (13.3 percent) "More than ever before, men have been asked to step up to the plate and express themselves through the clothes they select,'' Marsh said.

"For some men, the change is a welcome opportunity to declare their identity through fashion.

"For most men, however, relaxed dress codes pose challenges as they grapple with creating the right look for their increasingly eventful days.'' With Father's Day coming up Sunday, maybe it's time to relieve the Ol' Popster's fashion stress level. Help him build some versatility into his wardrobe, so that, as Marsh puts it: "One basic look can be edited to suit more than one occasion, whether it's going from work to a ballgame or from a client meeting to dinner with friends''.

The secret is key items that can be dressed up or dressed down as the situation demands. Here are some of them: Khakis. These days, khakis can take a man just about everywhere. They're the No.1 casual workday pant, but they also look great at a weekend cookout or sporting event. They can be dressed up with a sport coat and shirt or dressed down with a polo or camp-collar shirt.

Fashion dress shirts. White and oxford blue are no longer the only options.

Dress shirts in French blue, lavender or peach are a good way for a man to add color to his work wardrobe.

Sport coats. When appropriate, a sport coat provides a more versatile option than a suit, because it can be dressed up with a shirt and tie or dressed down with a knit.

Dress slacks. They're no longer the exclusive partner to a sport coat, shirt and tie. Combined with a fine-gauge sweater, for instance, they add a more casual "dressed-up'' look. Dress slacks in small checks or plaids also add pattern interest to an outfit.

Knit polos. They've come off the golf course to become a stylish and useful wardrobe item, complementing a sport coat or blazer for a work-casual look or simply worn with khakis, jeans or shorts.

Crews. Crew-neck sweaters in summer-friendly, fine-gauge knits and the ubiquitous crew-neck T-shirt in cotton or more luxurious jersey or silk work well under a sport coat for a dress-casual look.

Neckwear. The "office man'' is smart to keep several extra ties in his work closet to dress up his appearance for an unscheduled client meeting. Fashion colours that coordinate totally with dress shirts are both stylish and versatile.

CLOTHING CHOICE -- Men increasingly face the challenge of what to wear to the office in the casual 1990s. Above, Royal Gazette photographer David Skinner (left) is shown wearing more casual clothes, while reporter Neil Roberts sticks with a suit.

Graphic file name: IDIOTS