PERHAPS you're interested in a cruise that's very relaxing, low-key and definitely doesn't require suitcases filled with evening dress-ups. But also one that offers memorable scenery, intriguing history and a totally different kind of experience.

Yes, certainly there's the Mediterranean, Baltic, Alaska, South Pacific and Caribbean, all very worthy, intriguing destinations. But for a variety of reasons, you may want something closer to home. Also something smaller, with no mass exodus of 2,000 passengers, as though evacuating a troop ship when disembarking at a port.

There's a surprisingly long list of possibilities that don't get a lot of publicity. That's partially because they're so popular with repeat clientele they don't need it.

They regularly ply America's major rivers examining colourful sites along the Mississippi, Missouri, Columbia and Ohio Rivers. Others cover America's Great Lakes, Canada's St. Lawrence, explore California's wine country, Florida's intercoastal waterways and east coast ports reaching up into the Canadian Maritimes.

With autumn not too far distant, scheduling one to coincide with the spectacle of fall colours is something to think about now. Most cruise year around, moving across the country seasonally.

ALTHOUGH each has its own distinctive personality, they all share certain characteristics . . . small size to accommodate the kind of passenger who does not think bigger is better, informality and a folksy friendliness among both passengers and crew.

Add distinctive and often very different ports and the kind of camaraderie that comes when people of like interests meet. For starters, you know almost all fellow passengers are there because they're kindred souls who like this lifestyle and do not feel packing tuxedoes and evening dress is their idea of relaxing. The thought of sharing deckspace with 2,000 to 3,000 other passengers is not their idea of tranquility.

Unlike advertisements where some cruising giants proclaim rock bottom fares like "starting at $799 for a week in the Caribbean", these do tend to be pricier. Of course, that's because overhead for smaller vessels is costly, service standards are high and understandably one expects to pay for the privilege of a very unique personalised experience.

Those considering a cruise anywhere will generally find the smaller the ship the higher the fare. You are investing in something above the ordinary and costs usually start around $300 per day per person. We found that true on WindStar's Wind Spirit and Wind Surf, Star Clipper's Star Flyer, the Radisson Seven Seas Navigator and on and on. But there's also no question they are truly memorable experiences if that's your thing.

Let's start with one of the most unusual, River Barge Explorer, which we told you about last year. High on my personal hit parade, it got there because my brother Jim expressed great enthusiasm when he first heard about its launching almost five years ago.

You may remember my writing that when two tickets were auctioned as a fund-raiser during the Society of American Travel Writers' convention in Bermuda. I won the high bid and gave it to Jim as a birthday gift with the caveat I come, too.

A wonderfully comfortable adaptation of barges moving cargo along world's rivers, even Mark Twain would feel this version rated applause. Navigation is via traditional vintage pusher and two connected barges 730 feet long, 50 feet high, which provide a high level of creature comfort for 198 passengers.

The first houses two levels of very attractive lounges, dining and entertainment areas and the second has two levels of accommodations in well-planned, very comfortable staterooms. Floor-to-ceiling windows are everywhere, offering camera-worthy views in all directions. A deck top area offers truly panorama vistas.

IF you're familiar with European barge cruises, it comes as a pleasant surprise to find River Barge's product far more spacious. Itineraries this time of year head for Nashville, Cincinnati and St. Louis visiting sites like Ripley, Ohio of Underground Railroad fame, Shiloh Civil War Battlefield and dozens of others, eventually cruising towards New Orleans and southern plantation waters.

New on some itineraries this year is free motor coach transportation taking passengers back to their departure port. Shore excursions are included and regional entertainment boarding along the route adds special flair; www.riverbarge.com (1-888-GO-BARGE).

If the idea of travelling the smooth inland waterways of Maine, Florida and the Chesapeake Bay sounds appealing, American Cruise Line specialises in small ship exploration of historic seaports, vintage villages and cities they consider special. Itineraries range from six to 14 nights. New England routes are especially popular calling at Martha's Vineyard, Nantucket; New Bedford, Massachusetts; Newport, Rhode Island and New London, Connecticut. With only 49 passengers on board, it's like cruising on a friend's opulent yacht. Staterooms are spacious, ranging from 190 to 220 square feet. Those anxious to avoid big cities can sign on for seven nights plying Maine's secluded ports, inland passageways and rugged coastline. Others, like the Chesapeake, focus on Williamsburg, Annapolis, Yorktown, St. Michael's and Baltimore, Maryland.

Other possibilities are a six-night Hudson River Cruise departing New London, Connecticut that stops at West Point, Sleepy Hollow, even New York City Harbour. (880-814-6880); www.americancruiselines.com

On each of the ships being mentioned here, there's considerable emphasis on making this a learning experience with on-board lecturers and naturalists. They're always very qualified and travellers come away knowing more about the area being visited than just admiring the scenery.

American Canadian Caribbean Line is another which likes to follow the road less travelled. Now in its 37th year, it all started when founder Captain Luther Blount, a Rhode Island ship builder, began taking his family and friends swordfishing during the 1950s in his own private yacht. They all enjoyed the experience so much it grew into a business. Their new fleet of three ships carry from 84 to 100 passengers. Today's guests still say it's very much like cruising on a friend's yacht.

Especially appealing to autumn cruisers are its 12-night Erie Canal Fall Foliage tours. These depart Warren, Rhode Island, head for Long Island Sound, New York harbour, the Hudson River, West Point, Erie Canal, Upper Canada Village, Ontario; Montreal and Quebec.

This can also be done in reverse, with one-way connections between either Rhode Island and Quebec via bus through Massachusetts, New Hampshire and Vermont. (880-556-7450); www.accl-smallships.com

Delta Queen Steamship fell victim to the immediate decrease in travel following September 11. Its three very famous steamboats filed for bankruptcy very soon thereafter, partly victim to extensive overexpansive ship building by the line that had acquired them.

Now they're afloat once again, bought by Delaware North, recalling memories made famous by Mark Twain in Life On the Mississippi. Again, it's decisions, decisions, decisions. Do you want to sail away on the classic original Delta Queen or one of its sisters?

That vintage headliner has survived many obstacles. It was originally saved, thanks to efforts of many who campaigned across the country to rescue it from being permanently drydocked under US Coast Guard Safety At Sea laws being unfairly applied to it in the same manner as ships far out to sea. It's never very far from shore. I'd got involved by getting the backing and supportive proclamations from the Governors of Wisconsin and Illinois.

Its sister ships, Mississippi Queen and American Queen, are also very popular. But there's no denying they do tend to be a rather Disneyised version of life on the river. Some love their gussied up decor, others come away describing it as "New Orleans early bordello". It's up to you to decide.

Many September and October cruises include Hanibal, Missouri, an itinerary giving travellers a chance to enjoy Mark Twain's boyhood home. They also go upriver along bluffs of the Mississippi which are especially scenic and colourful around La Crosse, Wisconsin.

Expect a lot of old-time steamboatin' hoopla from traditional showboat-style entertainment most evenings to calliope concerts. It's hard to quote prices since it varies from stateroom category, itinerary, season and many two for one specials. Be warned . . . simply trying to call in for information is a challenge. For several days I heard: "We are experiencing exceptionally heavy delays. Please continue to hold. You will not hear another message, but will continue to hear music until we answer." That was repeated, repeated, repeated for more than 15 minutes each call until I finally lost patience. One wonders if service on board is as slow? (880-308-1481); www.deltaqueen.com

Clipper Cruise Line, often seen in Alaska and the Caribbean, has a "Close To Home Cruising" line-up ranging from Atlantic Canada and New England to Georgia's Golden Isles. Again, this is coastal and inland waterways cruising at the peak of foliage and harvest season.

Eight days in the 100-passenger Nantucket Clipper departing New York on October 25 begins at $2,950 per person while a 12-day colonial heritage voyage heading south is $3,160 (880-325-0010); www.clippercruise.com

Cruise West, noted for Alaska adventures, also sails into the California wine country cruising Nappa, San Joaquin and Sacramento Rivers on three and four day trips. A wine expert is on board Spirit of Endeavour, with thirst-quenching vineyard shore excursions. Its seven-night Snake and Columbia River cruises sail from Portland for Columbia River Gorge and retrace Lewis and Clark's adventures via their Spirit of '98. (880-888-9378); www.cruisewest.com

Lindblad is another company noted for exotic destinations including its voyages along the Columbia and Snake Rivers via 70-passenger Sea Bird and Sea Lion, retracing the route of explorers Lewis and Clark. www.expeditions.com; (880-397-3348).

Every summer we intend to try a Maine Windjammer cruise and somehow the season gets away from us. Sounds intriguing. The largest US fleet of traditional sailing vessels, all 14 of its sailboats are individually owned and are true sailing ships. Each has its own colourful background and many are designated historic landmarks. (880-807-WIND); www.sailmainecoast.com

And the list continues to grow. A few months ago writing about Alaska cruises, we mentioned sternwheeler cruises via the new 235-passenger Empress of the North. It and sister ship Queen of the West (163 passengers) are also paddling along the Columbia, Snake and Willamette Rivers focusing on the Oregon Trail and Lewis and Clark.

We've not seen them, but their itineraries are certainly tempting. Each is four decks tall, reminiscent in appearance of the Delta Queen Line. Some combine river and rail. (880-435-1232); www.ColumbiaRiverCruise.com

4 Next week: On location with Katharine Hepburn.