IN less than three months, Bermudian athletes will be descending on the fabled Greek island of Rhodes for the Island Games. Those lucky enough to accompany them will find too much to see on just one trip.Not only is there a wealth of history and scenery, but a setting quite unique in all Greece.

Here you can roam a very dramatic cliff-edge Acropolis predating Athens, marvel at a sound and light performance overlooking a fortress built by Knight Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem en route to the Holy Land, or join the jet-set at baccarat in a posh casino. And that’s just a sampling for starters.

The gods of ancient Greece mythology knew what they were doing when Zeus presented this slice of scenery to the sun god. Rhodians have been worshipping it ever since and well they might, since it shines almost constantly.

German and Scandinavian tourists who flock here for the climate are already on the beach at 7 a.m. for their before-breakfast swim in clear translucent Aegean and Mediterranean waters.

There’s no disputing its “soft” air is an unpolluted pleasure, one of many things that will make Bermudians feel “at home”.

To understand any country’s present, it’s important to know about its past. If history is your thing, expect a special bonus . . . practically everyone of importance in ancient times lingered here during their climb to fame.

Alexander the Great made the scene, as did Helen of Troy, an assortment of noble Romans and even the Apostle Paul. Homer wrote its first travelogue praising chalk white cliffs shining in the sunlightK>But<$> the mediaeval Rhodes which lures modern travellers owes its heritage to the crusaders. Knights of St. John made it their stronghold from the 14th to 16th centuries while they attempted to defend Jerusalem for Christianity.Wonder why there’s such an unusual air of middle-age affluence to the ancient quarters? These were not ordinary crusaders, but aristocrats required to prove noble birth on both sides of their family for four generations before qualifying for membership.

Interestingly, our affinity for talking to strangers introduced us to a modern member while writing this series. En route to meet a Chicago City official, we found him talking to a distinguished looking Greek gentleman with a legal problem.

My brother Jim couldn’t help overhearing his problem and generously offered free, much appreciated legal advice because it was a subject in which he has expertise.

When I asked where he was from in Greece, the conversation turned to Rhodes where he visits annually as a member of the Knights of St. John. We then verbally hopscotched across our individual favourite sites all over Greece, a fascinating discussion shortened only by the fact we were due at a lunch with the French Government Tourist Office.

We later learned from the city official that the Greek gentleman owns almost half of one Chicago area suburb and wanted to hire Jim as an attorney because he was able to offer help his own staff hadn’t suggested. Thanks, the vote of confidence is appreciated, but we already have too many irons in too many fires.

The massive walled town these Knights built reflects their rich, varied cultures and still stands intact as the old city’s prime tourist attraction. Some interesting small hotels and bed and breakfast facilities have been developed here but were difficult to access when you needed to park a car. They’re observed walking the narrow lanVisitors <$>will understand and appreciate it all the more after attending the sound-and-light presentation before the impressive Palace of the Grand Master. Narrators explain the Knights’ work and their bloody struggle with Turkish Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, whose 200,000 men were finally able to defeat the 500 knights, only because of one man’s betrayal.Many hours can be spent roaming its cobblestone streets and narrow lanes, which weave their way past bazaar-like shops and remarkably preserved individual inns built by the different nationalities into which these crusaders were divided.

Some will want to explore the intricate defensive systems of walls, bridges and tunnels, coming away in almost a daze of confusion. “So much happened here, I can’t keep it all straight,” was an often repeated reaction.

No wonder. Most of us aren’t surrounded by a history reaching back to 400 BC. And where the golden age of Greece left off, mediaeval crusaders, occupying Turks and restoration-minded Italians took over.

Statues of Aphrodite stand almost in the shadow of mosque minarets and over them all looms the legend of the giant Colossus of Rhodes. The bronze statue, acclaimed one of the ancient world’s Seven Wonders, crumbled in a 227 BC earthquake and is said was last seen disappearing into the desert as scrap metal bound for Asia astride 900 camels.

You can watch the tragedy of <ntigone<$> from a rock amphitheatre which has not softened since its construction in 2 BC, as we did, or join the energetic set dancing under stars at a posh beach-front hotel, something we also did.

This rush of new resort construction is proceeding so fast and furious one fears a junior Miami Beach-like high-rise overdevelopment will ruin the area’s former charm.

Things have changed so much since our first visit that some areas are barely recognisable. We first arrived by air in 1971 to attend one of our early Society of American Travel Writers conventions. We explored the island in depth, then sailed off on a chartered Greek Island cruise ship.

Last trip, we arrived after yet another cruise, Rhodes being the place of disembarkation. Renting a car, we then spent a week re-exploring the island. In between those two long visits were a couple of other one-day stops via cruiseip.There’s<$> no disputing Rhodes is special. Some will opt for the high-octane action of the city centre. But as solitude seekers, we bypassed that excitement for the more off-trail last trip and actually circled the entire island one and a half times until we found the ocean edge property where we settled in for the week.Obviously those there to watch the Games — to be staged from June 30 to July 6 — won’t want to be that far away from the action and will depend on their travel agent to select a property convenient to the events.

But to really appreciate the island’s beauty, one must either join special sightseeing tours or rent a car and play explorer. Landscapes surrounding the city are reminiscent of Arizona and New Mexico . . . dry hills with desert-like vegetation interspersed with masses of blooming hibiscus and oleanders.

But this setting soon gives way to a lush green valley 15 miles from town where a waterfall cuts its way down through rocky canyons home to millions of butterflies.

Known as Petaloudes<$> (Valley of the Butterflies), this surprising spot attracts hikers who follow trails along brooks where a clap of the hands sends clouds of multicoloured wings fluttering among the trees.

On our last trip the Monarch butterfly population was diminished, but on the previous trip it was flourishing. It depends on seasonal conditions. Atop the hill is a vintage church and café worth the hike.

But the best is yet to come next week as we move on to our favourite Lindos, an absolute must. We’ll also savour some traditional Greek food and wine to tempt the palate, even discover a most unusual Wendy’s for a milk shake.

-Regular">q<$> Next week:<$> Lindos is jewel in the Rhodes crown

Rhodes: An island of legends