IN 2008 it will be 400 years since Samuel de Champlain raised the French flag over a small settlement on the banks of the St. Lawrence River.Following instructions of explorer Jacques Cartier, it was intended to become a major centre for the fur trade. And it certainly did that.

But far above and beyond those early frontiersmen’s expectations, Quebec City not only became one of Canada’s premier cities, but a unique travel gem distinguished by its French flavour.

It’s difficult to dispute the fact few cities boast such a dramatic setting, poised on cliffs above the river. Its stone fortifications still stretch for two and a half miles, a reminder of a lively past, with forces from Britain, America and France disputing territorial ownership.

That was ultimately decided on the Plains of Abraham in 1759 with both leaders — French Montclam and British Wolfe — victims of the decisive battle. It was ceded to the British Crown with the Treaty of Paris in 1763.

Ever wonder how this famous city got its name? It was from the Algonquin Indians who called the straits in front of the settlement Kebec, “where the river narrows”. Its strategic location brought prosperity, partially thanks to the St. Lawrence whose deep channels extend 800 very navigable miles to the Atlantic.

Remarkably, water there remains salty and tides come as a surprise to visitors. The Old Port is maintained separately from the commercial one and excursion boats depart from there to enjoy trips out to the islands and panoramic views of the city.

Today’s traveller will find so much to see and do in Quebec City they could spend an entire vacation there — from gazing out over the city strolling terraces of the incomparably dazzling Chateau Frontenac, modelled after Chateaux of France’s Loire Valley, to poignant exploration of the Plains of Abraham where England won supremacy over that region.

Expect wonderful museums, great restaurants, historic churches, impressive old districts, where narrow streets are lined with vintage houses of unusual architecture. No wonder Quebec City attracts more than nine million visitors annually.

In a recent issue National Geographic Traver <$>ranked Old Quebec sixth among the best preserved UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

But there’s also much outside town . . . touring the Ile de Orleans with its rural lifestyle . . . viewing the beauty of Montmorency Falls, higher than Niagara . . . the entire Ste. Anne de Beaupre area with its large Basilica shrine the centre of pilgrimages for many million visitors annually. It’s all a quite remarkable blend of past and present in a superbly scenic settinBK>It’s unique to have two stellar cities of such obvious charm in close proximity. Montreal is only 158 miles from Quebec City and has its own distinctive list of standout attractions — some 30 museums for starters and volumes of fine dining possibilities. Our trips there always started with a carriage ride up Mt. Royal for an overview of the landscape.Massive St. Joseph Oratory, near the top of Mt. Royal, is reminiscent of Paris’ Sacre Coeur and attracts many visitors. Its setting is equally dramatic.

Last trip to Quebec and Montreal, this traveller took off exploring in two very different directions. Far up north into Laurentides Park and far east back to the Gaspe Peninsula.

Both were fondly remembered from family vacations. On those very early trips into Laurentides Park, there were signs recommending one register before heading back along some of its most remote, unpaved wilderness roads.

That certainly didn’t deter my explorer parents, who to our delight not only sought out the most off-trail of sites, but encouraged them to proceed even further along any “road” that had recently been cut into the wild. You’ve probably noticed “the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree”.

We proceeded up along the Saguenay River, past isolated Lac Ste. Jean and Chicoutimi, a route at that time only sought out by adventurers and geologists seeking mineral deposits. Today it’s become more mainstream and the road is even paved.

We’d previously driven up to the Gaspe a couple of times, but this trip opted for an overnight sleeper train from outside Quebec and had a delightful time utilising that excellent service. Canada’s Via rail service proved excellent.

The dried salt cod my mother used to bring back in its traditional wood box no longer existed, nor did the great cod fishing fleets remembered from those earlier trips.

But an interesting museum at the former Gaspe site was an intriguing stop. And, of course, the peninsula’s dramatic scenery was unchanged. New were whale-watching excursions and searching for them on a large rubber inflatable was somehow more exciting than doing the same in Hawaii via big whale-watching boats.

In this briefest of overviews, it’s impossible to do more than offer a glimpse of Quebec Province’s many travel-worthy attractions.

It’s both vast and remarkably varied, ranging from ocean, river, woodland and mountain scenery to charming small villages where a rural life remains little changed.

There are so many wonderful discoveries you may never have heard about — such as Rimouski, a place that has always held a special place in this traveller’s memory. On that first long ago family visit, its fog horn lulled us to sleep.

One of this traveller’s chilling memories of the river dates back to a school day’s episode near there. I’d climbed down the steep bank with my brother Jim to walk along its shoreline when a massive ocean liner appeared en route for Europe.

Suddenly water sucked out as the ship passed, then surged back with terrible force as Jim yelled to me to climb up on the rocks as water began swirling around my legs. It was a hairy moment.

On the most recent return, we were stunned by the haunting, little-known story of one of the maritime world’s most tragic accidents. On May 28, 1914, the 14,000-ton, 1,500-passenger Canadian Pacific’s Empress of Ireland left Quebec bound for Liverp.Nine hours and 42 minutes into the voyage, a 6,000-ton Norwegian collier hauling coal collided with the ocean liner amidships in very heavy fog. Within 14 minutes, in the dark of night, the Empress keeled over completely on its side and “disappeared in a great swirl of water”.Of the 1,477 people on rd the Empress, 1,012 were lost, more than the Titanic. A fascinating museum near the collision site recalls the tragedy, worst marine catastrophe in Canada’s history.

It had not been there during our youthful visit, or my parents would certainly never have missed it. It was so interesting and well done, this traveller would welcome an encore visit.

The same is true of a memorable boat excursion among some of the intriguing islands in the middle of the St. Lawrence off Riviere du Loup. The Pot a l’Eau-de-Vie Islands are a bird watcher’s and naturalist’s paradise.

Owned and operated by a non-profit conservationist corporation, La Société Duvetnor, the group offers nature excursions around the islands. We even visited a vintage lighthouse owned and operated by them where guests can settle into a magnificent isolated overnighting quarters decorated with antiques and nautical mementoes.

We’ve barely scratched the surface of what Quebec Province has to offer. Where to stay? We’ve enjoyed everything from wonderfully rustic wilderness camps and quiet country inns to the impressive Chateau Frontenac and posh Relais and Chateau properties.

Definitely something is there to fit everyone’s taste.

Quebec City: Something to suit everyone’s taste