October was originally, in the Roman calendar, the eighth month, but was changed to the tenth month when January and February became part of the 12-month calendar. Being moved to later in the year perhaps was of more significance then than it is now!

Growth during the summer months — especially from June onwards — is often dictated by Mother Nature, be it with plenty of rain or too dry, with the hurricane scenario also part of the equation.

Heat encourages growth with prolonged heat and little rain the problem of stress, which can be quite serious when it affects the lawn conditions as well as established plantings.

Weeds — plants growing in the wrong location — are an all-year-round problem with summer weeds followed by winter weeds, many of which are spread on the winds or by birds or seed adhering to our pets’ skin and fur and dropped wherever to germinate and grow when conditions are favourable.

Ephemerals being the most worrisome type of weed, as they germinate and grow flowers and seed in very quick time and in the process take up water and nutrients from the soil which would be more beneficial to cultivated plantings.

Sparsely planted flower beds end up being an opportunity for weed infestation and the decline in soil fertility, and generally detract from the visual impact of the garden in general.

Garden plantings should start to slow in their growth while temperatures remain warm, but will slow as the year ebbs away.

With good maintenance practices, growth should show a good pattern of outward and upward growth with flowering being less prolific, but still active.

Plants with excessive growth should be trimmed back with keeping the ‘architectural’ outline of the plant, this will encourage new growth with temperatures remain conducive to such activity.

Foundation plantings, as they mature, create cover over the bare soil which ― to a degree assists ― in suppressing weed growth, reduces the soil from drying out on the surface and controls run off during heavy rains.

When a gardener includes ground cover, plants will further enhance this exercise of protecting the soil surface with enhancing the visual appearance of the flowerbed ― when viewed from the surrounding areas.

Large trees should be checked for pruning excessive growth and have the crotch of the tree checked for water ingress or signs of rot or decaying wood owing to the settling of water that collect in such areas.

In the case of old specimen trees, it is advisable to seek the services of an arborist to examine the crown of the tree by physically climbing in to the branch system.

It is also advisable to check the root run of large trees to keep them away from building foundations and underground utility lines and pipes.

Palms should be checked for pest and disease problems and if needed treated accordingly. Windblown and damaged fronds should be removed to the main trunk leaving a clean cut and no snags.

Consider planting batches of newly sowed annuals usually found in six pack cells, as these will add colour and interest to the flower beds as the foundation plants slow their growth and flowering.

There are a wide variety of annuals available at the nurseries at this time of year which fits in nicely with the cooler temperatures.

Once planted, water lightly and continue to check watering needs during dry periods, until plants show they are established.

Keep an eye out for pest and disease problems and treat accordingly at first signs of a problem.

Do not use chemicals sprays during hot and dry periods as this will have an adverse effect on plants.

When using a knapsack sprayer or similar, always rinse out the container after each use and again before applying sprays.

Always read the instructions as to quantity of chemical to gallons of water, instructions are there for a reason. Also, check the instructions to determine if sprays can have an adverse effect on specific plants.

When applying spray on a windless day, avoid spray drift which might be injurious to neighbouring plantings.

• Malcolm D. Griffiths is a trained horticulturalist and fellow of the Chartered Institute of Horticulture in Britain. He is also past president of the Bermuda Horticultural Society, the Bermuda Orchid Society and the Bermuda Botanical Society