For Adam Ashe, executive chef at Hamilton Princess & Beach Club, autumn in Bermuda does not arrive with plunging temperatures, heavy coats and an immediate switch to warming bowls of stew.

The change is more subtle.

“My instinct when I think of autumn is richer, slower-cooked dishes, root vegetables and a noticeable shift in temperatures downwards, but here in Bermuda it’s actually more of the easing of humidity, rather than the cooling of temperatures,” says Chef Ashe.

“Mornings and, most importantly, evenings become more comfortable, and guests naturally start enjoying this wonderful time of the year to dine outside, maybe put on a sweater to feel more comfortable. This is my favourite time in Bermuda.”

That gentle change is reflected in his cooking.

“[There are] slightly more robust, heartier flavours and dishes, not quite wintry food yet but balancing the introduction of braises, soups, root vegetables, heavier pasta dishes.”

One dish in particular captures that transition: a slow-braised beef short rib with aged Parmesan risotto, roasted pumpkin, sautéed mushrooms and a red wine reduction, which is being added to the Crown & Anchor menu.

“It captures everything I enjoy about autumn cooking. It’s comforting and familiar but still refined enough for an elegant dining experience.

“The combination of slow cooking, seasonal produce and deep flavour development makes it a dish that feels appropriate for the time of year without being overly heavy for Bermuda’s climate.”

The short rib is seasoned and seared before being slowly braised for several hours with red wine, stock, herbs and aromatics until tender. The braising liquid is then reduced into a rich sauce.

It’s served over aged Parmesan risotto cooked with mushroom stock, with pumpkin incorporated two ways, roasted pieces and a silky purée, alongside roasted mushrooms.

“You have the richness of the beef, texture of the creamy risotto, acidity of the red wine reduction sauce and, of course, the sweetness of the in-season pumpkin.”

Those ingredients are indicative of the way Chef Ashe’s cooking begins to evolve at this time of year.

“Moving into autumn, for me it’s not just the vegetables that begin to influence what I want to cook. It’s moving towards ingredients that offer a little more richness, depth and comfort.”

Pumpkin, squash, mushrooms and root vegetables begin appearing alongside more robust proteins such as halibut, duck and lamb shoulder, as well as secondary cuts including beef short ribs and beef cheeks.

“These all work so well with slower cooking methods and develop incredible flavour and texture,” he adds.

But this is still Bermuda. October does not mean abandoning seafood and salads for heavy winter food.

“Autumn cooking in Bermuda is more of a transition rather than a transformation. It’s more subtle and gentle because we are not moving immediately into really heavy stews and winter comfort foods. The climate is still very much outdoors but without that heavy humidity, so seafood remains incredibly important, salads are still fun to create but they might become a little more composed and substantial.

“Plus, it’s a great time to use some really local ingredients such as guinea chicks and have some fun introducing them to menus and guests.”

Guinea chicks are one of the distinctly local ingredients that can help define the season on the plate. Local availability plays a significant role in what Chef Ashe and his team cook throughout the season.

“It has a significant influence because, at the end of the day, it doesn’t matter how good a cook you are, without great ingredients your food will always struggle.”

Chef Ashe said he enjoys having the opportunity to work closely with local farmers, fishermen and producers to source seasonal produce, honey, artisan cheeses and, of course, exceptional seafood.

“The best dishes always start with what’s available and in season, because that is when it is at its best.

“Working with local ingredients not only provides better flavour and freshness, but it also creates a positive connection between the menu and the island. Whether it’s freshly caught fish, local lobster, seasonal vegetables or honey from our hotel hives, those ingredients help create dishes that feel authentic to the hotel, Bermuda and the season.”

This season, Chef Ashe and his culinary team are also looking at how the classical French and European techniques that underpin much of their training can be applied to Bermuda ingredients.

“We have made a shift towards how to use some of those techniques to create some new menu items and, as a result, focus and highlight local products and create something fun and enjoyable for our guests.”

Ultimately, though, the goal is less about technique than how the finished plate makes someone feel.

“I hope that our guests are able to feel comfort and connection to the kitchen team and the ingredients we use. Great food should tell a story and create a memorable experience.

“With the risotto dish, for example, we hope that people are able to experience warmth, flavour and craftsmanship in every bite and know that the chefs in the kitchen also love this dish and style of food.

“For me, the food here at the hotel and in our kitchens is about creating something familiar enough to be comforting but refined enough to feel special. If a guest leaves the table feeling satisfied, cared for and having enjoyed something that reflects the season, the hotel, maybe also Bermuda and, of course, the chefs behind the stoves, then we’ve achieved what we have hoped for, a great dining experience.”