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Not an April Fool’s wine joke

Enlightened approach: a wine dinner at Lightfoot & Wolfville Winery in Nova Scotia, Canada (Photograph supplied)

I can understand that you may suspect that I am attempting to fool you if I say that I am going to write about rosé wines but not mention any of the 17 listings that we have from Provence.

Our story today has nothing to do with that time in 1582 when Pope Gregory XIII changed the calendar to make New Year’s Day January 1 – some thought that he was fooling them when moving it from April 1.

I actually have fish cakes, Easter ham and warmer weather in mind. Let’s visit six different countries for rosé wines.

The 2021 Seresin Zosia Pinot Noir Rosé is a truly charming, graceful, yet powerful rosé, that has been crafted to wholly represent a small, special plot of pinot noir within the Raupo vineyard in Marlborough, New Zealand.

Highly aromatic, brimming with classic pinot noir rosé notes of wild berry fruits, vanilla and florals.

It exudes elegance and purity on the palate, yet with many dimensions, textures and a tension that gives great length; aided by a dry finish and refreshing acidity that completes the wine.

Critic Cameron Douglas writes, "A distinctive bouquet of red flowers and exotic fruits. Flavours of crushed red cherries and red papaya, a cold tropical fruit tea and fine chalky lees spice and texture.

“The finish is floral then fruity, compelling and interesting with a fresh raspberry flesh taste. Balanced and well made."

New Zealand Wine Rater writes, "Deeper, bright pink/blood orange colour. Quite intense, fruity, pinot-derived nose with classic black cherry conserve, kirsch, aniseed wheels, violets and a hint of smoky barrel – very pleasant. A ripe, plush, plump expression with redcurrant fruit, zesty acidity and a warm finish that's uncomplicated and easy drinking."

$28.90 (Stock #8717). Organic and vegan-friendly (in other words, no egg whites or gelatin used during the fining process). I would suggest with baked ham.

Our 2020 Jim Barry Annabelle’s Clare Valley Rosé elicits this from the family: “August 2015 heralded the arrival of our first grandchild, Annabelle, and the purchase of a new vineyard alongside her home.

“As a proud grandfather, it was my honour to name the site and wine after her. I invite you to share in a glass of this delicious 2020 rosé and to contemplate my predicament … Annabelle now has a younger sister, Alexandra, and cousins, Florence and Hazel!"

Their winemaker has this to say: “The wine appears a pale pink in the glass. Bright red summer berries and rose florals on the nose. The palate follows the nose with a generous burst of strawberries and cream, jasmine and white rose supported by a touch of savoury spice.

“A fine, dry, refreshing line of acidity on the palate carries the bright red berry flavours through the finish and is complemented by a fine chalky mouth-watering texture. A beautiful summer drinking wine.”

Clare Valley is known for its fine wines even though it only accounts for 1½ per cent of Australia’s overall production. $24.85 (Stock #6417).

The 2021 Jacopo Biondi Santi Castello di Montepo Jet Rosato Toscana IGT may cause you to wonder if they are the family that developed a special clone of the sangiovese grape and created the very first Brunello di Montalcino. Is it not true that their 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva lists for $525 at Burrows Lightbourn?

The answers are indeed true and true, but here you can sample one of their wines for a mere $23.90! It is from the Biondi Santi estate in Maremma, Tuscany and it is a collaboration between Jacopo and his son Tancredi, hence the J & T in the name.

While fresh and fruity on the nose, this is a serious wine, with considerable power and body. It is representative of the new style of rosé coming out of Europe which can be enjoyed young, but which have the capacity to age for the medium term. (Stock #8791).

Our 2020 Chateau la Nerthe Les Cassagnes Côtes-du-Rhône Rosé is produced in Tavel, the heart of the Rhône Valley’s rosé production. Crafted from 30-plus year-old vines the hand-harvested grapes are carefully sorted once they arrive in the cellar.

Pale pink with bluish hints, this rosé has aromas of strawberry and lemon with floral notes. On the palate, the wine is balanced and crisp with generous fruit notes of redcurrant and peach and a long finish.

Grenache (50 per cent), mourvèdre (30 per cent), cinsault (20 per cent). The Tasting Panel rated it 92/100 and commented: “Lively aromas of strawberry lead to generous fruit salad of flavours: watermelon, peach and papaya.” $25 (Stock #8409). Organic.

Now to the Navarra region in Spain for 2021, Bodega Otazu Tempranillo Rosé with its bright pale pink colour with soft salmon nuances. It is delicate and fresh on the nose with gentle citrus notes. Salads, cold meats, and soft cheeses would be ideal with it. $24 (Stock #9409).

For those earth-loving Canadians, and other like-minded among us, what could be better than a bottle of organic 2020 Lightfoot & Wolfville Rosé? Owned and operated by the Lightfoot family, who have been farming in the Annapolis Valley of Nova Scotia for eight generations, Lightfoot & Wolfville brings a light touch and enlightened approach to both the agricultural and artisanal aspects of viticulture and winemaking.

They work in harmony with nature and letting the land offer up its innate best, without subjecting it to aggressive inputs. A pale, peachy hue shines from the glass.

Delicate red-fruit nose of wild strawberry and cherry with accents of fresh mint. Zesty pink grapefruit and chalky minerality frame the palate leading to a refreshing finish.

A bonus is you can tell your friends on April Fool’s Day that you have tried L’Acadie blanc, vidal blanc, geisenheim 318, pinot meurnier and frontenac noir grapes. Will they believe you? $28.75 (Stock #9703).

This column is an advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm. Burrows Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554) and Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits is available at www.wineonline.bm

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Published March 31, 2023 at 7:48 am (Updated March 31, 2023 at 7:48 am)

Not an April Fool’s wine joke

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