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A changing of the guard

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Ideal conditions: the Winemaker Notes for the 2019 Rombauer Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon describes its colour as “intense and beautiful, almost black with purple, reddish hues” (Photograph courtesy Rombauer Winery/Instagram)

When I name the wines that I intend to tell you about and say that they have been put in our cellars for the first time, quite a few of you will think “surely I have seen and purchased these wines here”. That would be true, so please let me share a little history.

When I joined the wine trade in 1975, it was from ten years with IBM, where they often reminded us that “the only constant is change”.

The same thing is true in the wine trade and many of the family wineries that I met early on have changed ownership, some even a few times.

It so happens that one family winery, the one that encouraged me to join the wine trade and then spend time with them in California learning the ins and outs of it, has purchased the Rombauer Winery.

As the parent winery has been with Burrows Lightbourn for over fifty years (well, originally with J.E. Lightbourn), they still like to work exclusively with them. And so, the change.

Koerner and Joan Rombauer moved their family to Napa Valley in 1972 and I recall meeting her when my brand-new wife and I made our first trip to the valley in 1978. The Rombauers founded their winery in 1980.

Besides the high quality of Rombauer wines, I am impressed by the way the health of our planet is handled.

They are Certified California Sustainable, Napa Green, and Fish Friendly, the last assuring the health of Coho salmon and steelhead trout in the lakes, streams, and rivers.

Solar energy supplies 60 per cent of their power, bird boxes house owl families to control pests like mice and gophers that love to chew on vine roots, and even their overall water usage is half the industry average.

It is only fair to say that I have not imbibed in these wines for some time and have not yet tried these brand-new arrivals, so I think it best to quote from the winery: “First released in 1982, the 2022 vintage of Rombauer Chardonnay celebrates 40 years of this iconic wine. Our Chardonnay, beloved by customers around the world, is sourced from the Carneros region where the San Pablo Bay meets the southern end of Napa and Sonoma valleys.

“The cool climate and specific soils of this region provide ideal conditions for this quintessential Carneros Chardonnay with the Rombauer hallmarks of intense fruit flavours balanced by fresh acidity. Cheers to 40 years of Rombauer Chardonnay.”

Their winemaking team tells us that 2022 Rombauer Carneros Chardonnay exhibits “aromas of ripe yellow peach, melon, and chamomile all framed by freshly baked pie crust. The palate is bright with flavours of nectarine, followed by a subtle spice, and lively acidity. The finish leaves you wanting another sip”.

High quality wines: Rombauer Vineyard, in Napa Valley, California, Certified California Sustainable, Napa Green, and Fish Friendly (Photograph submitted)

The site Wine Access informs its customers that, “this Chardonnay is as good as it’s ever been. A mix of sustainably farmed estate-grown grapes and some from select growers like the third generation Sangiacomo family, undergo a gentle whole-cluster pressing to preserve the delicate aromatics, while stirring of the lees every two weeks lends a rich lusciousness. Gorgeous floral notes of acacia and honeysuckle waft alongside golden apple and toasted hazelnut, while the creamy and textured palate is full of fruit, nuts, and spice, which all lead to a long finish”. $59.75. Stock #6629.

Sauvignon Blanc is so popular here and recently I have had occasion to enjoy two from the town of Sancerre that historically set the pace for this grape.

Of course, there are those delicious bottles from New Zealand that dominate our market here, but if you have not tried a very good one from California recently you really should.

According to The Wine Spectator2022 Rombauer Sauvignon Blanc offers “fresh Fuji apple, pear and nectarine flavours that are mouthwatering and juicy at the core of this white, but there are pretty accents for complexity and length, including a drizzle of wild flower honey, lemon curd, lemon verbena and fresh-grated ginger. 92/100”.

I can just imagine how well this would marry with many Asian dishes, even fish tacos. $42.00. Stock #6635.

Even though the original inhabitants called it the valley of plenty, or in their language “Napa,” this hallowed piece of land only produces a scant 4 per cent of all Californian wine.

Cabernet Sauvignon absolutely loves it here and so let us find out about 2019 Rombauer Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Their Winemaker Notes read, “the colour is intense and beautiful, almost black with purple, reddish hues. Aromas of black cherry, cassis, pie crust, spice, and mint mingle and leap from the glass. The palate is full and concentrated with similar aromas but also featuring black currant and sweet red cherry with the mild presence of oak seamlessly integrated. Signature finely structured tannins and balanced acidity give way to a long finish which continues to build after that last sip”. Although this grape is, far more often than not, blended with others in its historic birthplace of Bordeaux, it is not as common in Napa Valley. Rombauer does blend for this one and it has only used varieties that are allowed in Bordeaux. To be labelled Cabernet Sauvignon (or any grape variety) in California it must comprise at least 75% of the named grape. This Rombauer is 93 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 3 per cent Petit Verdot and 4 per cent Cabernet Franc.

One critic, the Wine Enthusiast magazine, rates it 93/100 and writes, “this deep and concentrated wine is as smooth as silk, scented with black currants, spearmint, and a touch of toast, then soothes the palate with velvety tannins and lush, ripe fruit flavours. While easy to sip, it has a subtle, restrained tannin structure”.

For those of you that may have heard that these wines do not age as well as the French, I will tell you that at Christmas, we celebrated our youngest son and our daughter-in-law's visit by enjoying a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from his birth year – 1988 – and it was glorious. $96.50. Stock #6631.

• This column is a paid-for advertorial for Burrows, Lightbourn Ltd. and Discovery Wines & Spirits written by Michael Robinson. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm. The Burrows Lightbourn retail store is located Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355). Discovery Wines & Spirits stores are in Hamilton (Corner of Queen & Reid Street, 232-0090) and Pembroke (Bakery Lane, 296-9463). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits are available online at discoverywines.bm

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Published February 02, 2024 at 7:19 am (Updated February 02, 2024 at 7:19 am)

A changing of the guard

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